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Re: blower fan not working
If you go to the parts store you can pick up a decent 12v test light for about 8 dollars.you can test all of the fuses this way without a chart.If you dont find a blown fuse get back to me and we can go into the problem deeper.
If your truck fan does not work on heat or ac then your problem is the blower motor resistor. It is located on the passenger side under the glovebox. Take out the two screws holding it in place and then unplug the connector. Take it to a parts store and get a new one they usually cost about 20 to 30 bucks.
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You could have a relay that is bad , Blower motor relay in the under hood fuse/relay box. Or the blower motor itself could be bad . This is where you need to get a wiring diagram an a component location chart an a DVOM digital volt ohm meter an do some testing . The blower motor resistor , is this the part you changed ? If you haven't high blower operation either it couldn't be the blower motor resistor .
I don't know the current rating for the blower fuse, but there is probably a chart on the inside of the fuse box cover showing what size is used in each position. This chart is likely also found in the owner's manual. The original fuse should have the current rating stamped or molded into its case somewhere. Are you sure you've found the reason why the fuse blew? If not, you'll blow the new one also.
The central element is the auto A/C control module which gets its power through 15A fuse 7 and 7.5A fuse 31 in the fuse and relay box (F/B). The F/B also contains 15A fuse 22 which supplies power to the A/C control panel and the auto A/C control module. The main fuse box (M/B) supplies power to the 30A SBF HOLDER fuse and through it to the blower fan relay. The auto A/C control module Input from the A/C control panel is processed to produce output that closes the blower fan relay and turns on the blower fan motor at a speed determined by the blower fan controller. There you have it - not a transistor in the bunch!
Let's start with the passenger compartment fuse box. If you checked the 30A HEATER fuse the blower motor should run at various speeds as you operate the blower switch. If you checked the 10A REAR WIPER fuse (!), and also checked the 30A ADD (?) fuse in the engine compartment fuse relay box, turning on the air conditioner should operate the A/C relay to turn on the condenser fan motor. If this doesn't solve your problem, you'll have to trace power through the various circuits.
the radiator fans use a fuse,relay,temperature sensor which the computer controls to turn on the fans at the specified temperature.you don`t say if this problem occurred when the blower motor fan fuse was removed.it is not uncommon for the rad cooling fans to seize and not work,the blower motor uses an electronic resistor block on the air box under the hood with i think about 6 wires in the plug and is about 3.5"long and 1"wide.held by 2 bolts(screws).this is feed power all the time and when the control switch is turned for different fan speeds the switch grounds the circuit.at times the resistor shorts causing the fan to run continually.i think you need a new resistor to fix this problem.
Mine use to work on high only. It was the switch cylinders, something like that. It was an easy fix. Now my blower motor works intermittently. If I kick it, it turns back on. It is located on the passenger side close to the door side directly above your feet (below the jockey box). Kick straight up. If you need to replace it it is also an easy do-it-yourself repair. Make sure before you go out and replace your blower motor that you check your switch. A lot of repair shops will replace the motor w/o checking the switch, you end up paying for 2 repairs. You can make sure it's not the switch by jumping (bypassing) the switch.You apply jumper wires (not cables) directly to the motor, if the motor turns on you know it's the switch.