1988 Cavalier 2.8 shuts down with no power,try to start it pops like timing issue and no gas,after 5 minutes it started and ran normal for 3 weeks then while driving tach drops and no power for about 10 seconds than it was OK,ran Ok for 1 week than would not start like b4 for about 5 minutes then started and running OK Replaced coil packs

Could possibly be the results of bad gas (old,stale)from sitting.Gas has a tendency of breaking down over a long period of time. Also could be a glogged fuel filter.Some models have an in line filter or it could be in the fuel tank.Also possibly water in fuel tank from sitting try adding dry-gas to fuel .

my 1988 towncar used to stop running on the open road at 70 mph after 20-25 miles of driving.......after sitting on the side for a 1/2 hr it was start right back up like nothing happened. After 2 frustrating weeks and 3 different mechanics I found out through another towncar owner that the ignition coil is getting hot and is causing the engine to shut off...Lo and behold 28.00 and 20 mins solved the problem. Just invest in a good Ignition coil from NAPA or SUMMIT PARTS

hello firstly the cause of the loss of power and missing this is down to the timing belt it may need to be replaced and set this would cause loss of power ,check your plugs and set them with the proper feeler gauge hope this helps

On some models, the Engine Control unit has a power supply relay. These relays some times get internal dry solder points. After driving for some time the the solder will get hot and separate. When it cools down it makes contact again. You will have to replace this relay or open it up and re- solder the solder joints. The relay is usually located on the main relay station in position 3. the relay station is located behind the right dash panel.[right hand drive vehicles]. You may need to refer to a manual for your specific model to find the exact location of the relay.

Your issue is with either spark or fuel delivery and you need to check the components in each system for proper operation. Such as pump, cables, camnshaft sensor, igniter, etc.

ok..you must have more than one car???? you don't drive the 300 atall im guessing. #1 start car drive up the road and \back to your house. #2 let it idle till problem starts. #3 once it does start with the problem keep it alive with the gas pedal. #4 once your have it safely from dying in higher rpms "rev it" like a kid would, you know like if you were gonna race some one lol. be careful not to over rev or damage engine. you should do this for five minutes no longer than that. #5 let it idle for another 5 minutes. #6 repeat every day until problem with idling decipates. it took mine 3 300e like 3 days of this. if your not going to drive the car once you get the problem out of the way. turn the car on everyday and let it idle for 5 minutes atleast and take it for a short drive once a week. they get lonelly you know lol. later on you can just turn the car on every 2 -3 days and let it idle but still take it on a short drive atleast once a week

My TL would do the same, crank, crank, crank, give it gas, crank, etc, then finally, after everyone was looking at me like i was crazy, it would eventually start.
I noticed that strangely enough during this time, I filled up w/ regular gas at the same Exxon 3 times n a row, instead of going to shell like i normally do. (I used regular from shell or chevron in mine for 8 years & never a problem) Oddly enough,it would drive ok, kinda rough, for a short time then, i would walk out a store & it wouldn't start. I would give it gas while I was crankn it sometimes even until a cylinder would misfire & make that pop. when it would finally idle, just barely enough for me to put it n drive, i would step on it to keep it going. I even rode around for a week with that scanner hooked up to my car & the only code that EVER came up was cylinder misfire & only if i had to get on it & make it misfire. I put that fuel injector in my gas tank every time i filled up for about a month after the exxon fill ups & went back to shell & put plus instead of regular. We checkd the fuel pump, fine, the fuel filter, doesnt have one.
I have been fortunate to not have it happen since then but, I did some research on it & found that it could also be that the valve that controls the emissions, it would sometimes get stuck & not open/close properly thereby causing the engine to not be able to receive or give off the correct amount of air flow & therefore it wouldnt turnover to start until i would force it by giving it gas or making it misfire, or waiting a while for it to cool off.
Also, check out ur air compressor & make sure its not starting to go out. turn off the ac & see if it still sounds like ****. if it sounds better when its off then the fact that its going out causes it to pull more on the engine in order to keep it going. This could be why its running rough, like feels like its having trouble shifting in 3rd & 4th gears.
Just some advice I found helpful when I had the issue, dont know if its the cause of ur issue but, i thought I would let u know.....
I hope this helps ..... good luck!

Ignition control Module out again? Over energized?

check the throttle position sensor,it may be stuck and it wont start unless its all the way back.Almost like trying to start it with the gas pedal down-which it will crank and crank but it wont start.

sounds like throttle body sticking.take air cleaner hose off ,get throttle body or carb cleaner sprayand spray the hell out of it ,in and out.if you dont know what athrottle body is,have someone go into the car and step on gas,observe under the hood you will see a cable moving a lever which is connected to the throttle body.good luck rob .