Question about 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier
Alright Charles, I had a similar problem with my Cavalier, and it sounds like you've got the exact same problem. We're going to run a few tests and see what happens, alright? Just follow these instructions to the letter and you should be back on your feet, or wheels in this case. And the best part is, you may not have to pay a dime to get it fixed.
Test One: Fuel Pressure Regulator
Step One: Start the car. Let it run until it reaches idle speed.
Step Two: Shut the car off.
Step Three: Get some thick gloves and make sure your dominant hand/arm is protected. You may need safety goggles as well as a face shield. On your engine, look for the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It'll have a vacuum line coming out of the top, with a rail hooked up to the side or under it. Now, CAREFULLY pull the vacuum line off of the top of the regulator.
Step Four: If it comes off and it is not wet with fuel, then your problem is not there. Put the vacuum line back on and move on. If it IS wet with fuel or fuel sprays out of the top of the regulator, then replace your regulator and your clothes because you probably just got hosed down.
Test Two: Idle Air Control Valve
Step One: Open your hood and locate the Idle Air Control Valve. For reference, look it up on www.Autozone.com to see what it looks like.
Step Two: Remove the IACV. Inspect the spring inside. If it's dirty, get some Oxygen Sensor Safe Carburetor Cleaner and soak the component overnight. Inspect the gasket as well. It should be colored orange.
Step Three: Since you've got the IACV removed, you might as well clean out the carbon deposits inside of the housing where it was located. Hey! You've knocked out two birds with one stone!
Step Four: Replace the IACV after cleaning it and then start the car. If everything runs fine, even with a spin around the block, congrats! Problem solved! If not, move on to the next test.
Test Three: Charcoal Canister
Alright, before I move on with this one, you're probably wondering, "Why check the AC charcoal canister?" Believe it or not, this has a LOT to do with that "free" stuff I mentioned above.
Step One: Locate your charcoal canister. It should be behind the passenger side wheel well's dust guard. The best way to locate it is to jack the car up, remove the tire AND the dust guards, and find it.
Step Two: This is the important part. Locate your fuel line. Trace it. If one of the lines goes INTO the charcoal canister, you have a SERIOUS problem. This was the problem with mine. The line going into the charcoal canister should ONLY be a vent line for the exhaust, if I'm not mistaken. NOT a fuel line. If this is the case, move on to the next step. If this is NOT the case, replace your tire and move on to the next step regardless.
Step Three: If there is a fuel line going into the canister, call a Chevrolet dealership. Check your specific vin number for ANY kind of recall. I'd bet both my Cavalier AND my Mazda that you've got a recall on at least one component, and I'd also bet that the charcoal canister has a lot to do with it.
Here's the sweet part. If there are any recalls, then GM has to fix the problems, FREE OF CHARGE. If something were to happen to you, or anyone driving the car, and they were insured, and GM had NOT addressed these recalls, and it resulted in a serious injury or death, then GM would have a huge lawsuit.
We're going to need to perform one more step to make sure. When you drive the car, does the Low Oil Pressure light come on right before the car stalls? And if it does, is it while turning, or applying the brake? And lastly, can you shift into neutral when or if the light comes on, hit the accellerator, and keep the car running?
If you answered YES, then it's linked to your charcoal canister, thus it is a safety recall. If you answered NO, then you've got a problem linked to about 20% of the Cavaliers of that model year. Most of them run fine with no problems, then they suddenly just stop running, exhibiting the problems we've been talking about. And the worst part is, there is no way to stop it, and even GM acknowledges the problem. It's just plain out Catywompus.
Anyway, good luck, and if possible, contact me to let me know what's going on and how things are going. If you need a list of prices, check out www.autozone.com or www.oreillyauto.com , or just hit me up at email@example.com
If this helps you, please rate me appropriately. Good luck!
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SCAN IT TO LOOK FOR MAP SENSOR PROBLEMS.AND CHECK TO MAKE SURE MAP SENSOR VACUUM HOSE IS RECEIVING VACUUM.IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK FOR OR LOOK FOR LOOSE VACUUM HOSE OR PVC STUCK OPEN.CHECK FUEL LINES GOING TO THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR AND FUEL INJECTORS. FOR LEAKS.ALSO CHECK FUEL PRESSURE O RING IT WILL LEAK CAUSES FUEL ODOR.HAVE YOUR EVAPORATIVE CANISTER FILTER CLOGGED.YOU WILL HAVE FUEL ODOR.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
If all these idea's people have given you, and the code still isn't resetting in the computer, disconnect your battery for 24 hours, then reconnect it, the codes will reset them self's, remember to drive the car for 50 miles before going a inspection stick or your car will show no computer codes on the engine system at the station you go too.
Posted on Oct 12, 2012
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