Car wont turn over battery fully charged

SOURCE: 2000 Silhouette Battery Problems...Maybe

It sounds like your starter failed, more specifically your starter solenoid. But it is mounted right to the starter and sold together as a package deal. Most auto part stores can test these if you take the starter to them. Another quick check you can do is to turn on the headlights and try to start the van, if the lights do not dim, that is another good indication the starter failed. If the lights were to dim a lot it could mean its time to look at the battery, but from what you describe, I'm 99% sure its starter. Expect to pay probably 100-150 dollars for it. (P.S. whoever takes the starter off, make sure to disconnect negative battery cable from battery first or sparks may fly)

SOURCE: 86 cutlass wont start with

You may need a new starter, it could be drawing too much, or your fully charged battery is not a good battery. Have you load tested the battery?

SOURCE: Car keeps stopping

Sounds like you have a bad O2 sensor - typically what happens is the sensor will go into closed loop and stay there and once it cools down will open up and be able to start again - your car has two O2 sensors, it is best to replace them both - bet you notice your car getting crappy fuel mileage too. hopefully this helps you, as this is the most common problem - Also, clean your Mass Airflow Sensor, this is really easy to do and may help as well and should be the first thing you do before throwing a couple hundred dollars into new O2 sensors, use CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner available at auto zone or advance auto for about $10.00 a can, if you are not familiar with where it is located ask the guys at the auto parts store to show you - it takes like 15 minutes to do and requires only a t-20 torx bit - this part needs to be cleaned every 6000 miles.

SOURCE: had to keep taping on starter to get it to start

Is the security light flashing?

SOURCE: car turns over real slow

Usually, this is caused by one of three things. First, the starer, which is an electrical engine that spins the motor, needs to have the battery cable cleaned and re-tightened. Conversely, it could be that battery cable leading to the starter is simply bad. And here I'm not talking about up top on the batter. I'm talking about the lead connector on the cable, and the connector down on the other end that attaches to the starter. Second, if there is a solenoid between the battery and starter, that may be bad. A solenoid, in very simple terms, is a mechanical switch that activates when either energy or vacuum is applied to it--in this case it would be energy from the battery when you turn the ignition key. Now, sometimes, and this is true on most late model vehicles, the starter solenoid is separate from the starter, so you will have two battery cables and not one. Third, and this is where its gonna hurt, you just might have an internal problem. This is either bent connecting rod or perhaps a worn timing belt or chain. In the first instance, that can be checked by spinning the engine and listening for a dull, mettalic clunk; if you hear that then you have a bent rod. In the latter, if the engine seems to try to spin and hits a 'hard spot' like it is straining, then you probably have a timing problem between the cam and crankshaft. In both of these instances, you'll need to take this to the shop and have the engine repaired. You should find out about the batter cables and starter first. Then, if that doesn't solve the problem, you should start looking at the motor. That's about as best as anyone can do at a distance, and I hope this helps you.