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It is entirely possible to have a bad replacement wheel bearing. There are many cheap ones available and I've found that you get what you pay for. I prefer Timken bearings myself. Also, the drive axle nut torque is critical in ensuring that you don't cause bearing failure. Too loose or too tight will cause bearings to fail in short order. The axle nut is not one that can be "shade tree torqued" by "grunt-power".
Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way
it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the
wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly,
thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage
the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft
nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin
the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off
the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin
freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32
(or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn
freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and
forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little
little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the
wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.
If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends
around the axle nut.----
coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic
hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel
bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.
I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All
the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total
hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel
steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.
Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it
has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing
bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your
replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison
TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL BEARING.YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.BEFORE RAISING VECHICLE OFF GROUND YOU NEED TO LOOSEN HALF SHAFT AXLE NUT JUST A LITTLE BECAUSE WHEEL IN THE AIR HARD TO LOOSEN AXLE NUT WHEN YOU HAVE HOLD THE WHEEL WHILE LOOSEN THE AXLE NUT WHICH IS TORQUE ON ABOUT 200 FT LBS.USING A SIX POINT AXLE SOCKET SOCKET SIZE COULD BE 34 OR 35 METRIC 1/2 INCH SOCKET.YOU NEED 1/2 INCH BREAKER BAR.ONCE YOU LOOSEN AXLE NUT A LITTLE THEN RAISE VECHICLE THEN REMOVE WHEEL.THEN FINISHING REMOVING AXLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE USING A PIECE OF WIRE.REMOVE BRAKE ROTOR.THEN REMOVE THE 3 HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY BOLTS. USE A SWIVEL SOCKET GOING TO BE HARD TO REACH SPOT WITH A REGULAR SOCKET. REMOVE THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY.REMOVE HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY. PUT EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA. TORQUE HUB BEARING BOLTS TO 70 FT LBS. TORQUE AXLE NUT 284 FT LBS IF YOUR CAR IS 1998 MODEL AND TORQUE AXLE NUT 100 FT LBS FOR THE 1999 TO 2001 MODELS.THE WHEEL HAS TO BE ON THE GROUND JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING.DONT LET ALL THE CAR WEIGHT DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE TORQUE WHEEL TO THE RIGHT TORQUE.LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.
front bearing wheel nut holding axle on? 115 foot pounds and hammer in or crimp the nut after tightening. ^ like shape into slot of axle this locks the axle. for the wheel bearing for rear wheel drive the nut should be tightened by hand till tight 15 foot pounds then backed off 1/4 turn, be sure there is plenty of grees in the bearing cup before tighting nut be sure to line up slot for key with rotor on the rotor should turn free and should not have any slop in it, put the wheel on it and put the nuts on and try wiggleing the wheel back and forth if any movement readuast nut. If it is to tight it will over heat outter wheel bearing, also be sure there is greese in inner wheel bearing.
Hi, first put the van on jackstands and take the wheel off. then take the brake caliper and bracket, these are removed by loosening the bolts that hold the bracket to the spindle. then remove the rotor (you may have to give it a few love taps with a rubber mallet to break the rust loose), then you will need an axle nut socket set to remove the center large axle nut, this can be rented at any advance auto parts store or its equivalent. an impact gun will make removing this nut and the wheel bearing retainer bolts much quicker. once you get the axle nut loose you will need to take your rubber mallet or a brass hammer and hit the end of the cv axle to drive it out of the wheel bearing. finally remove the three wheel bearing retaining bolts located on the opposing side of the spindle, after that take any hammer and strike the wheel bearing on the backside to drive it out of the spindle( it may give a little bit of a fight to drive it out). then unclip the wire for the abs and remove the bearing. the assembly is just the reverse of the removal. good luck and have fun!
very simple to change remove whichever tire is on the bad hub then remove the caliper and rotor then there is the axle nut remove this now on the backside there are 4 18mm bolts remove these four bolts then tap the bearing assembly with a hammer this may take a few smacks then go in reverse order to reassemble torque the axle nut to 110 ft pounds
Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
Remove the brake disc.
Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
Remove the snapring.
Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
Install a new snapring into the hub.
Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
Install the brake disc.
Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
Lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment
the axle nut should be a 36mm
will also need a 17mm to remove three bolts holding ball joint to control arm and a pry bar to pop axle out of transmission. if replacing right side will need tounhook support bearing
It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly