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I don't know how many miles you have on your car, but it is possible that you may have a spark plug being fouled out either with oil or coolant. I had a Protege with 120k and it burned more oil than gas. Change #3 plug and get a good look at the plug you remove. Look for signs of contamination.
Is it sparking between boots or is it from the boot to the engine? You need to use dielectric grease on the boot on the coil to stop leakage of voltage between coil towers, I can't find the 2006 laser so chose a model similar to that model. With the engine off and you pull the spark plug wires put a little bit of the special grease on your finger and put it on the inside of the boot of the spark plug wire at the coil and at the spark plug. Be sure to not get any on the spark plug metal tip or on the metal on the coil pack. When removing the spark plug wire from the coil and plug be sure to twist it with the engine being cold so that you don’t ruin the spark plug wires. This should stop the leakage, if not then you have a defective coil/ coil pack and need to see if there is a carbon track or a crack in the coil assembly itself, let me know if this helps and get back to me if you need more assistance. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Ignition-Coil_190_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS__coil___
Well it's possible that when the mechanic sprayed your engine he may have also used cold water or lukewarm water to rinse it. Or the silicone itself was cold coming from the can. If the coil/coil packs were hot at the time, or the ignition module was, it is likely that the cold liquid(s) spraying on the hot electronics may have cracked either the coil magnet or the ignition module causing them to fail. Repeated misfiring from damaged coils or ignition modules can cause failure at the rotor and distributor cap by constant crossfiring inside. You'll want to remove the distributor cap and look inside for evidence of burnt, broken, or cracked electrodes. If they appear blackened or melted/burnt you will definitely need to replace the cap and rotor. Before replacing them however, you may want to take a close look at your coil or coil packs and the ignition module. One way to check the coil to see if it is cracked is this: Place the vehicle in a darkened area or wait til it is dark out if you can't move it. Since the vehicle isn't running everything should be cold so this test won't damage anything any further. Fill a spray bottle with warm water. Spray a mist of water on the coil. Have an assistant crank the engine and watch in the dark the area of the coil. If you see a lot of arcing or a halo like effect of electricity you will know the coil magnet is likely damaged. If not, it is probably ok but you'll want to have the ignition control module tested. You can probably have this done at a reputable parts dealer or garage who have the correct electronic test devices. If both the coil and the ignition control module check out ok, go ahead and replace your cap and rotor then try starting her up. Anything that tests bad obviously must be replaced first to get it running and to prevent further damage to the ignition system. If you are getting no spark it is most likely the coil, second most likely the ignition control module. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
if the car starts when cold and runs fine, and then after it the car gets hot and you shut it off and try to start it doesn't start. I assume when you say the car doesn't start you mean the starter turns the motor when hot, but the motor doesn't run as in idle. If this is the case then you need to check and replace your coil or your coil packs. Your car will either have one coil or it will have multiple coil packs but it will not contain both. If it is a coil and depending on what type of coil it has you can usually replace it in 15-20 minutes and it costs 50-70 dollars usually.