Question about 1990 Honda Accord

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Replaced timing belts on a 90 accord with balencer shafts and now there is a rattle in the back of the engine. not a knock. not at idle but when you accelarate

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Your balancer shafts are probably not in the correct postion. If you replace your own belts, you need to remember to lock the balancer shafts so they don't move. Otherwise they will be out of sync with the engine and you'll get that problem.

Posted on Aug 25, 2010


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I just bought my first car 1998 honda accord did a complete tune up but it vibrates when idle but run smooth.

some hondas have a counter balance shaft on lower part of the engine (marks should be lined up when replacing timing belt ) someone may have replaced timing belt and missed aligned them

Feb 28, 2015 | 1998 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!

If its a knocking sound:

1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

96 plymouth grand voyager with 3.0L engine "Rattle noise in Engine"

replace the timing belt and every thing in the front like waterpump pulleys oil seal the whole 9 yards it's time

Aug 02, 2012 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

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While driving the car runs fine, but when stoping at a stop it idles rough and try to cut off. pulled code gave code p0325. I changed the knock sensor but still gets code p0325, and car still misses at...

Hi Thomas,
We have a couple different issues here.
First, your Maxima is either NOT a 1995 model, or it is a very late 1995 model that "thinks" it's a 1996. The reason I say this is because a 1995 model Maxima is NOT OBD compatible and is not capable of outputting "P-codes" to a generic OBD scanner.
Those Nissans that were claimed to be OBD compatible in the late 1995 model year only output certain codes. To find out the rest of the story, you still need a scanner that has software capable of accessing the engine computer through the Nissan-2 connector (usually in the fuse block area).
Then you need to understand about Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0325.
This code does not necessarily mean that you need a new knock sensor. I think you will be a little less confused if you know the facts. What you need to know about ALL fault codes is that they NEVER tell you what parts to replace. Fault codes only tell you that the computer has a problem with one of the many circuits and systems that it monitors. The fault code will tell you which system is failing or which circuit is failing. They DO NOT tell you what is wrong with the circuit or system that it is reporting. The person diagnosing the vehicle is supposed to figure that one out.
Most people think that "diagnostics" means plug in the "magic box" and replace everything the computer tells you to replace. I WISH it was that easy!
Now that you know all of this, we can examine the code itself. What causes this code to set? ...I'm glad you asked. The computer controls the ignition timing in your car. The trick is to advance the timing as far as possible (for more power and efficiency) while not advancing it too far, which will cause pre-detonation (also known as "ignition ping"). Pre-detonation can cause serious engine damage, including burning holes through a piston.
Here is where the knock sensor comes in.
SCENARIO 1: The computer advances the ignition until the knock sensor "hears" an ignition ping. When this happens, the knock sensor sends a signal to the PCM to let it know that the engine is "knocking". So the computer responds by retarding the timing a little to stop the knock. When the knock stops, the knock sensor will stop sending a knock signal to the computer.
DTC P0325 sets when the computer has ******** the ignition timing as far as it possibly can and the knock sensor is STILL sending a knock signal.
SCENARIO 2: The computer also tests the knock sensor by deliberately advancing the timing too far for a few seconds to see if it gets a signal from the knock sensor.
So, P0325 can also set if there is NO signal from the knock sensor when the computer is EXPECTING a signal.
For scenario 1, the cause is usually a mechanical knock in the engine. Loose timing belts, worn/loose timing chains worn distributor shafts, bad pulley bearings, etc. The knock sensor does not know the difference between a knock caused by pre-detonation and a knock caused by a loose valve lifter (or other mechanical reason). The knock does not go away when the timing is ******** because the knock is not CAUSED by timing....code P0325 sets.
For scenario 2, the cause is usually either the knock sensor itself or a problem with the wire between the knock sensor and the computer or the knock sensor is not grounded properly. These things will cause the knock sensor to not be able to get a message through to the computer....code P0325 sets.
Now, the misfire at idle is a whole other issue. The computer will default to base ignition timing settings if there is a knock sensor fault. You may notice a little loss of performance, particularly during heavy acceleration, but there is NO WAY that your knock sensor is the CAUSE of ANY misfire - especially not at idle. However, it is VERY possible that whatever is causing the misfire could also be the cause of the knock sensor code.
Basically what I am saying here is that you need to put the knock sensor problem "on the back burner" until you find out what is causing your misfire. Unfortunately, misfires can be cause by a LOT of different things ranging from a bad spark plug to a cracked cylinder head or worn-out piston rings. The misfire simply has to be diagnosed using the proper procedures to avoid replacing a bunch of things that will not fix the problem.
With all that said, WHEW! I hope you got through all that!
The older Nissans are notorious for the distributor shaft bushing going bad and causing a loud "rattling" noise. The movement of the shaft can cause a cylinder misfire, and the rattling can cause a knock sensor code to set. I have fixed many of the Nissan V-6 engines with this same problem by replacing the distributor. This is the FIRST place I would look. If your distributor is not rattling, try revving the motor just a little and see if it rattles. If it does, replace it. If it does not, let me know and we will look elsewhere for the cause of your problem.
-Dave (dttech)

Nov 19, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Water pump went out on my 96 Honda Accord EX 2.2L VTEC. I replaced timing belt, balancer shaft belt, water pump, both serp belts, and tensioner according to manufacturer specs. Put everything back together...

A bad EGR valve could cause your car to experience hard starting, a rough idle, cruise control surges, popping noises from the exhaust, backfiring and sudden engine stops with cold weather or after deceleration.
Read more: Symptoms of a Bad EGR Valve '

May 23, 2011 | 1996 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I have a 1998 Subaru Impreza the check engine light was on we plugged it in said knock sensor went bought one replaced it. Everyone said to keep driving it and it will reset itself, we also replaced the...

There are a couple of areas to look at. 1) Check your plugs, HT leads and coils - check each plug for a healthy spark - put a long shafted screwdriver into each of the plug holders and then put the shaft of the screwdriver near to the cylinder head to see the spark as you turn the engine over. If all plugs have good spark and the plugs are in good condition then... 2) Check timing belts. If a belt stretches or jumps a cog tooth then this will result in a misfire. Before removing tension on the timing belt mark the belt position on the pulleys (Tippex works well). With tension taken off the belt ensure that there is no play in any of the pulleys. Movement of a pulley due to bearing wear/failure will cause the a mis-timed belt. If a belt is badly worn or stretched replace it.

Dec 14, 2010 | Subaru Impreza Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I want to change the timeing belt for a 90 honda accord anyone know the time settings

jack up on stands, remove LF wheel and water shield. disconnect battery, buy a crankshaft pulley holding tool from OTC, swing p.s. reservoir out of the way, remove both accesory belts, front motor mount, valve cover, dipstick and tube, crank pulley, timing belt cover, set engine at TDC #1 (align marks), remove nut on tensioner shaft to loosen both belts, remove the belts and tensioners (replace all), replace water pump NOW, install timing pulley, reinstall spring (use dipstick tube bolt to hold back the timing pulley with the slot in the bracket on the pulley until the belt is installed), install balance shaft belt, pulley and spring, once tensioned rotate engine once and retension by loosening the nut and retightening. Make sure the marks are still lined up, and reinstall everything. New valve cover gasket set with silicone in the corners. fill with coolant and bleed system once finished. it is a good idea to also change all the oil seals while you are in there.

Aug 04, 2009 | 1990 Honda Accord

1 Answer

92 cherokee laredo 4x4 started squealing relized it was harmonic balencer replaced that plus belt now it has trouble starting if I hold peddle to floor it will start and run rough for about 1 minute then...

may not have any thing to do with what u replaced ,,,unless the harmonic balance has relutor on back side ,and wassnt lined up with crank shaft sensor/and it would have damaged harmonic reluctor and sensor

Jul 05, 2009 | 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport

2 Answers

2001 camry was at idle and engine shut off..

Hi There,
Is this a 4 or 6 cylinder? How many miles?

Mar 27, 2009 | 2001 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Cut off

I suggest you to check your brake boster if there is air leak, to do this, start the engine, press the brake and hold. Observe the engine idle while you are holding down, if the engine become running roughly or engine cut off, it means you have to replace brake boster. but if this procedure doesn't make sense, try to knock the fuse housingseveral times while the engine is running if the engine.if cut off while knocking, most probable there is loos fuse or relay. secure all the fuse and try to knock again, if the problem still excesting, try to wigle in deferent direction the wire loom around the engine bay especially the wire harness of crank shaft and cam shaft sensors while the engine is running. if stil can't find the problem check the ignition switch harness try to wigle as while. if the problem occure while wigling the wire harness definitely you have loose connection.

Mar 09, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

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