Question about 1996 Toyota Camry
Can I get to the oil pump and replace the gasket and seal w/out taking off the timing belt and a bunch of other stuff??? Just had timing belt replaced and the friend of mine who did it neglected to complete this ''small'' part of the job. Does the whole job have to be done over? I am going to have someone else do the work but I'd like to know if what I just had done was done in vain. please explain briefly what must come off engine to get at oil pump. thx smpdog
Since your friend just replaced the timing belt, there wouldn't be a need to replace the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal unless they were leaking.
No, you cannot get to the oil pump unless the crankshaft, lower timing belt cover and belt are removed.
I have the same exact car with the same engine and just replaced the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal. I'm a good mechanic, but this is a tedious and time consuming job, but It can be done if you have good mechanic skills.
There is a big chance that the car's engine timing will be off, have someone who is knowledgeable to set the engine timing. If you don't and try to start the car, serious engine damage will probably occur.
When you get the oil pump off removed all the old O-ring the new oil ring will not stay in place, I used petroleum jelly to keep the ring in place, it's perfectly safe and won't affect the operation of the oil pump.
If your not sure you can do the repair yourself, take it to a mechanic.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
You can do the oil pump gasket without taking off the top half of the timing belt cover or disturbing the timing of the camshaft. You need to take off the alternator belt by loosening the alternator adjusting bolt and swinging it down but if the adjuster screw is frozen just take out the through bolt and leave the adjuster setting alone. Loosen the power steering adjustment screw and pull down on the belt to swing the pump down to remove the belt. Remove the harmonic balancer using a strap wrench or pulley belt wrench to hold the crankshaft from turning. The balancer should come right off the crankshaft. Remove the three bolts from the lower timing belt cover and the 10mm bolt below the alternator that goes through both the top and bottom timing belt covers. You can then remove the lower timing belt cover by prying and wiggling it free but some of the retaining sleeves may be rusted and need a little wd40 and jostling to get the cover free. Mark the position of the timing belt with respect to the crankshaft using whiteout or paint but remove the guide washer first from the crankshaft. You can then remove the lower idler/guide pulley and slide the timing belt off of the oil pump and swing it towards the front of the car and out of the way of the oil pump. Remove the seven 10mm bolts securing the oil pump cover and remember the locations of the two shorter bolts for proper reinstallation. Carefully use a screwdriver to free the oil pump cover from the oil pump body and remover all of the old o-ring gasket. You can change the oil pump seal at your workbench but I didn't change mine because the nut on the oil pump shaft is on pretty tight and I didn't want to chance mangling the belt sprocket using a vise to hold it from turning. Chances are that the o-ring is the real culprit of your major oil leak. When reinstalling the o-ring gasket I used some quality rtv silicone lightly rubbed on the o-ring to hold it in the proper channel on the oil pump body when putting the oil pump cover back on. Do not overtighten the 10mm bolts on the oil pump housing so you don't crack the aluminum oil pump cover or the housing. Reinstall the timing belt on the crankshaft and the oil pump and then replace the idler pulley and check that your timing belt marks match up. Replacing the lower timing belt cover is a little challenging but can be done with patience. The top of the lower cover slides in under the bottom edge of the top timing belt cover and you can see if you have the proper positioning by looking down from above in the engine compartment. Use a long screwdriver or tire iron to lever the power steering pump back into position with the belt installed and also get the alternator back into position using a temporary bolt threaded into the alternator from the left side and a long screwdriver as a lever to get the proper positioning for the adjuster through bolt to be reinstalled. I hope this helps with your project.
Posted on Feb 12, 2014
No it should not have to be done over all you should have to do is remove the oil pan to get to the oil pump but you can also try this website for a diagram and step by step instructions "autozone.com"
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
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Exploded view of the water pump mounting
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Do NOT use a prybar between the water pump housing and the engine block to separate the two components; this can cause scratches and/or gouges, which can prevent proper sealing.
Do not disassemble the water pump; if the water pump is damaged or defective, the entire unit is replaced.
The drive belt can be used to hold the fan stable while loosening the mounting fasteners
Loosen the fan bolts, then either remove the drive belt before the fan and shroud ...
... or wait to remove the belt, along with the water pump pulley
Once the cooling fan and shroud are removed, access can be gained to many of the engine components, including the water pump
Be sure to install the two rubber seals between the water pump, oil pump and cylinder head before installing the timing belt cover-1.3L and 1.6L TFI engines
The 1.6L MFI engine uses only one rubber seal between the oil pump and water pump
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