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I had the same problem and replaced the dual coolant control valve . The part was around $200.00
on line. Make sure you label the hoses-- hard to get out. I am not geared with all the bells and whistles for auto work it took me about six hours. I have read on line that some people clean the valve and reinstall it.
I took the car to three mechanics and they tried telling me it was a blend door motor . These motors rarely go bad. MY AC works fine now. Good Luck
It's possible the cooling system is just a little low on coolant. There could also be a valve in the heater hose that is failing to open and let the coolant flow through the heater core. It could also be the heater core itself. Did it start doing this gradually or did start all at once? If it came on gradually it most likely the heater core or low coolant, if it happened suddenly it's a valving or heater control problem. Good Luck.
Here are a few suggestions for things to check. Make sure your coolant (antifreeze) is full. Perhaps there is an air bubble trapped on one of the hoses that is preventing hot water from circulating to the heater core. Make sure the thermostat was mounted in the correct direction. Check the heater hoses for crimps that may be restricting water flow to the heater core. You can try removing both of the heater hoses going into the firewall and flushing water through the heater core just to make sure it's not blocked. If you bought this car used and the heater has never worked correctly check to see if the heater core has been bypasses with a hose. This is sometimes done to fix a leaking heater core. It fixes the leak but your heater won't work correctly afterward. Perhaps one of the louvers inside your dashboard is not moving to the correct position to allow airflow over the heater core. The louvers are controlled by electric actuator motors. The problem may also be your DCCV (dual climate control valve). I hope at least one of these suggestions helps you out.
its probably the compressor cutoff switch cutting your compressor off at the wrong time and causing your ac to blow hot. that switch is under your hood right on top of the engine easy to get to. I hope that helps you out!
One of 2 problems,either the system is low on freon or most likely the problem is a bad evap temp sensor. This vehicle does not use a cycling switch to cycle compressor on and off like a conventional system does but instead measures the temp at the evaporator core itself.
It sound's like one of two thing's, first open the glove compartment look behind to the left you will see a clear vacuum line going to a goldish in color accuator remove it once the vehicle is at normal operating temp. if you get heat then you have a problem with the vacuum switch, just plug the vacuum hose, you will have to reconnect it in the summer to get the AC working. The other problem could be the heater control valve, located under the hood inline on the hoses going to the heater core, upper passenger side of the fire wall.
The LS has several onboard computers that share information on a network. If something on this system shorts or spikes it can cause all kinds of crazy things like this. One of the main culprits for this is ignition coil packs but the coolant control valve has been known to cause these problems also.I suspect that the latter may be the case for you since you only have heat. It mounts to the fan shroud on the passenger side of the car.Try unhooking it and see if this stops the traction control light and parking brake light from coming on.