Question about 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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More knock sensor blues

2002 chevy silverado 1500, 5.3 ltr
the code = PO332
knock sens2 circ low input (bank2) continues to throw my engine light on. the only time this happens is when the truck coasts in gear example you are doing highway speeds and back right out of the pedal but do not brake. does not happen if you shift to nuetral or brake hard. I have replaced both knock sesors yesterday (friday the 6th) thinking it would solve the problem, and yet i still get the code. i know the new sensors are good i checked them with an ohm meter. i checked the wires up to the main harness as well, is there something else that could be causing this code to flash or am i missing something.
any help would be great
thanx
Bryan

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  • smngspxl Mar 08, 2009

    yes it was the knock sensors, even replaced the intake manifold gaskets. the intake is dry. and i checked the wire harness with a continuity tester, everything checked out

  • smngspxl Mar 11, 2009

    the knock sensors where brand new, and the guy at the store told me that sometimes there are faulty sensors and to check them with an ohm meter and the resistance should be between 90 and 110 ohms, both sensors where at 100.4 ohms the old ones where up around 128 and 152 ohms

  • smngspxl Mar 12, 2009

    when i did the install i slid the rubber condom up the wires to be farther away from the connectors. i made sure the connector was firmly clicked into place before sliding the rubbers back down into position. i even checked the ohms from the harness plug on top of intake to the block to make sure i had good connection and got a good reading of 100.4 k ohm. other solutions i have bveen given are that when i put on the duel exhaust i lost too much back presure causeing the knock sensor to come on when decelorating. and one guy told me the motor was worn out in the bottom end, loos bearings or even piston slap was my problem. was even asked to check the fly wheel and trque converter for loos bolts that might cause the code, i dont know what to think of this stuff but been trying to fix this problem for almost a year now

  • smngspxl Mar 13, 2009

    yeah, i haven't checked back to the ecm that sounds like a good idea i got about 250 000 km or 156 250 miles if i did the conversion right.

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Brian, If you have high mileage than I'd look at the crankshaft endplay first to make sure its not excessive.
I've got a feeling that something worn is causing a knock that is setting off the sensor. Also think about the driveline, torq converter,trans,u-joints....... Stranger things have happened...
Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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Forgive me for asking, but are you sure you replaced the knock sensors? They are underneath the intake plenum. I'm just wondering if maybe you replaced the Oxygen sensors by accident. Anyway, so that you know, this is a very common problem (the knock sensors). Gm has issued a bulletin, something to do with the rear knock sensor under the intake getting contaminated by water, and they recommend a new sensor installed with silicone around the gasket to protect it. Also, the wiring harness is particularly tasty to rodents and they get in there and eat the insulation and wires! You have to inspect the harness carefully when you have the intake off because you can't see it when it's all together. Seen this twice now.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 11, 2009

    You say you checked the new sensors with an ohm meter, why? Not trying to be snotty, just wondering, were they new or new to you? Also, an ohm meter may have fried the new sensors. They are made to generate a voltage and you would need a very high impedance volt meter to see the spikes. If you did check them with the ohm meter for resistance, it is very possible that the current supplied by the meter cooked the piezoelectric elements in the sensors.

  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    Just my opinion of course, but that guy in the store could have cost you last friday afternoon. I have a couple of these factory GM sensors in my spares box at work. I know they're good. I will go up there tonight, do a voltage output check on one with an oscilloscope, and then check it with my ohmmeter for resistance, and then check the output voltage again to see if there is any change. It might be late when I post the results, there's a pub on the way home.

  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    OK, so I was dead wrong! I did exactly what I said I would do, and saw no change in the output, before or after checking the resistance. The resistance of my sensors however, was 100,000 ohms or 100 K, I'm sure yours are the same, just a scale misinterpretation.

    But, I think I know what's wrong and you're not going to like it, or me, but you already gave me a crappy grade so what the heck. When I picked up my sensors something suddenly occurred to me. Those sensors have that funny little tulip top connector on them, and they are mounted down inside a little well inside the valley. There is a round rubber condom on top of the harness that pokes down into the well where the sensor is mounted. When you push that harness down to connect, you can't help but lose sight of the end of the harness and the socket on the sensor.
    You seated the condom at the top of the well, but you missed the actual pin of the sensor, or the part that snaps over the tulip, didn't go all the way on!
    If you have checked continuity of the harness back to the ECM and it's all good, there is nothing else it could be. I would put money on this.

    Let the flames begin :-)



  • Dave  C
    Dave C Mar 12, 2009

    OK, I owe you one, it's sounds like you've covered all the bases but good continuity right back to the ecm? I can get you a diagram if you want. I like the other suggestions, especially the torque converter one. I don't see how lower back pressure could cause this, perhaps poorly mounted exhaust that rattles on decel, but that should be fairly obvious. How many miles on the mill?

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