Question about 1991 Honda Civic

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91 civic engine flooding

91 civic 4 cyl with duel point efi engine flooding with gas. i have good spark. the timing is good. fuses in engine compartment and under dash are good. is there a sensor or relay i could have wont start.just smell gas out tail pipe.or is it bad injector?

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2 things come to mind.. Fuel pressure regulator.. and Leaking injectors..

Posted on Mar 08, 2009


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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The car turns on, after 3 or 4 seconds the car shuts off.

expensive guessing there ,wow !

why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise.
engine stalls:
A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action????
yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system.
no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding.
did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval?
your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.???

stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above !
but here goes.
1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day.
2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc)
3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad.
4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM.
See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding.
fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it
harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it.
impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above.

all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools.
the engine runs by order. "classic list"
do the tune up.
1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time.
2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored?
3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test)
4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding)
5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed.

this gets most stalls.
if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue
regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.)
the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too.
good luck.

Mar 02, 2014 | 2004 Honda Civic 1.7

1 Answer

F6a efi wont start

there is the list , and correct order that always works.
1: fuses. good?
2: 12vdc to all EFI parts (battery charged? at 12.6vdc? rested)
use a voltmeter, no guessing... and the VM dont lie.
3: good compression, on all cylinders. 150psi w.o.t
if all are real low the cam belt/chain slipped. (generic post)
4: good spark, the ECU cuts fuel ifs spark is gone, so spark
on gas engines, is #4. i check timing to see if cam slipped.
5: good fueling. (too much or too little, it will not start)
i check for flooding with spark plug tip checks, soaking wet is flooding.
dry is lost fuel, try test fuel check now, (spray fuel)
if flooded do the super secret unflood test in the operators guide.
SS-= cranking with wide open throttle.

i bet its running now.

skipping 60k mile tune up's will cause no starts
as will bad fuel.

Feb 26, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Toyota corolla 94 is not working when I start the engine then after a few minutes reading will goes up top 600rpm

running, not reading; what engine option? Cyl count and displacement?
Is the CEL glowing key on, then turns off running> (check engine lamp)?
the engine RPM is too low. ok that is bad.
this is caused by up to 50 reasons. (flooding and misfire huge list )
ill just post the basic physics reasons.
(Classic, good compression, spark and fueling)
no fuses blown?. and 12vdc reaches all EFI parts. (weak battery is no go)
In generic form as there many engines used on corolla world wide.
1: low compression , less than 150psi on all 4. (if not V6)
if engine has cam belt? it slipped.
2; weak spark causing misfire, tune ups never done each 60k miles.
3: bad fueling. (too much is flooding misfire, if too little it starves)
4; EGR stuck open , we clean these ever 60k mile.
if it sticks open, idle will fail. (goes low) for sure.....!
5: the ISC sticks closed, same deal; so it gets cleaned.

The first thing to do is a tuneup per the FSM and operators guide.
the 60k it's called, do that and spark is good and fuel pressure returns.

this post assumes engine has full power at all times.
if not , better explain that, in details.

there are simple tests for all the above, $100 max i tools.

Feb 13, 2014 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

My 2000 Honda Civic CX will not start with the Map sencer Pluged in

you meant, car will not run right (unsaid)
so i unplugged the MAP sensor (forcing limp home mode)
when was last time car had fresh fuel.
when was last time car was a daily driver?> last week, last year?
by removing the map the limphome goes huge rich state.
so id say , the engine is in a very lean state and going to limphome
hides this situation.
why not post full symptoms , with all parts back on engine.
did do the 60k mile , tune up yet? if the cam belt snaps, say good by to a good engine. (boom) Timing belt, sparks and filters.?
1: cranks ok.?
2: wont start
3: is it flooding? or starving for fuel. spark plug tips dry or wet.
if spark is good all cylinders, (no engine option stated) then
i check timing, if off the belt (cam) slipped.
if the engine is flooding i do the flooding tests.
if its to lean i do the lean tests.
for the lean test i check the ECT , then fuel pressure.
the fuel pressure is 10 tests on a V6.
I can also test the MAP in 5min with a voltmeter, to see if its right.

here is the list ,
Good voltage 12vdc to the EFI starting and running.
Good engine, spec compression,
good spark and timed correctly if, off its the cam belt slipped,
good fueling,
there are simple tests for each.
i also make sure the EGR is not stuck open on all cars with this.
and that the ISC is not dead.(stuck and dirty)

Feb 08, 2014 | 2000 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Car will not start like its not catching fire , i have a 2008 suzuki xl7

old post. but will answer.
the starter only cranks the engine, that is it's only job.
if it cranks robustly (at crank shaft pulley ,see it) then its ok.
250 RPM is typical cranking speed. RPM
no starts are complex.
for any engine Gas, to start you needs 4 things.
  1. ALL FUSE TO EFI GOOD, TEST THEM. CEL glows key on?
  2. full engine compression and crank vacuum 5" HG or more.?>??
  3. Spark , try a fresh tune up with fresh spark plugs. all 6 sparking.?
  4. Fueling , must be right. not flooding , not starving
if spark and engine are good, all engines(most) will start with test fuel.
This one simple test. proves the engine is ok, and spark is ok.
and the fuel system is dead.
these checks , will let is work the 4 systems. that might fail.
this is the classic basics path.
and works 99.% of the time.

exceptions, are clogged melted cat.
or stuck wide open EGR
or ISC stuck closed, (no starting air.) use 10% throttle to prove that.
or flooding, if flooding use super secret unflood mode (opr guide)
hold the throttle (right foot) pedal to the floor, this cuts fueling
and the flooded engine starts, for full time or runs and floods and stalls again.
This is called basics , in all ASE books in print.

Jan 11, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1993 nissan sentra it has a staying running and sometimes cranking up it something to do with the fuel because when u give it acceleration it dies like it's not greeting the gas I changed the fuel...

Its and EFI car. (what engine size.? many engine options)
there are only 3 possibles
bad engine, seems not.
bad spark do the tuneup fully. this time. read the 60k mile list and do it
lost the it in the glove box guide.
last is EFI fueling.
once you get this far withj simple tests. (compression , spark and tuneup)
we land on fueling... too much or too little.
im not there,so cant smell it running rich or flooding or misfiring.
but i check the spark pug tips, just like grandpa did.
if they are dry, its starving,
if soaking wet with fuel its way too rich. flooding
if dry ,
we check fuel pressure next.
30PSI ok
60PSI floods bad.
10psi idles only (Bad)

we check that all 4 cylinders fire
and all 4 injectors is MPI are all good , and not clogged and leaking
state engine. size.

Dec 11, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cold start engine flooding when cold put insids let it warm and it will start

how cold out?, no country or state , told, so can't guess. www is big place.
ever tune it up , this decade? do the 60k mile service points yet?
running old fuel is bad, and even summer fuel just hates cold.

if tuned up,?
try fresh fuel.
try a new ECT , the ECT is the device that tells eCU
its VERY cold outside, (non stated)
then the ECU uses fuel tables and volatility rules to start all cars
in fridge climates. (pure magic)
IN FACT EFI does this in amazing ways..... un like any carb ever made.
what engine, size. I6, V6, or V8?

if engine is good (compression good, times all cyl)
then its weak spark (tune up is 99% factory here)
or bad fueling.
only tests can find the cause, guessing will be hard.
here are some flooding reasons.
1: bad spark parts. or timed wrong.
2: why too high fuel pressure.
3: ECT reading -39F all the time. (its bad)
4: fuel pressure reg, bad, and pressure is 60psi (way too high)
5: injectors leaking, or clogged. (yes, clogged) ask why !
6: in limphome mode.
its a 1995 and may not have obd2 ECU,
so you my have to do the ECU flashing lights test to see if ECU is
happy or unhappy. got stored DTC codes?

Dec 10, 2013 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Once engine gets warm car refuses to start

with all engines, (otto cycle)
any engine Gasoline
1: compression drops hot. (valve lash is tops here)
2: lost spark. (did you check all 4 cyl for lost spark?) now is the time. (ill assume you can google,or youtube that , endless examples... and more every day.)
3: bad fueling. (complex but)
the tests is same 1920 to now, it's called LOOK at the spark tips.
are they dry, or wet.?
if dry do a test fuel run. (buy test fuel and use it)
if wet , (1st tune up in 19years.??????)
if wet diagnose flooding. (ask) complex answer.

the other possible is lost 12v power to the EFI system.
even an intermittent fuse. check power on all EFI fuses. at failure point, in fact all tests above are , yes, at the failure point.
not a perfect running car.

Oct 21, 2013 | 1994 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Fuel pump fuse is good. didn't drop the tank. did tune up day before . cap, rotor, plugs . drove 15 -20 miles then died. still sound like ignition switch?

ok slow down, it stalls, that is all we need, no need guess.
and tune up don, but you skipped the fuel filter? and air filter,?

1: lost 12vdc to EFI system. lost elect. power. easy to test , easy to see. you can attach a DMM set to 12v at the IGN output wire.
and see if it drops to zero as engine dies. sure can.

2: you could , check for spark at death, got spark
and work that path if spark fails.
3: lost fueling, (sparks soaked in fuel x 4? ) then its flooding
if dry spark tips x4 then lost fueling , so try test fuel.

you failed to say, is this a hard fail , i t dont run now.
or is always random... just a lil hint.
assuming power is hot at all EFI fuses.
then fails only 3 ways,
1: lost compression hot (if solid lifters, lash never set)
2: lost spark'
3: lost fuel or flooding.

if flooding use WOT, in this super secret mode works, Wide open throttle cranking, clears floods. (ecu cuts all fuel in this mode)

Oct 20, 2013 | 1998 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Wont start dash lights up perform service

what engine of the many, you cant fix one , unless you know what it is.! (cyl count and displacement works "cc's")
wont start. but cranks fast?????
dash lights up , key on, they all do all cars, its the lamp tests.
perform service, i just can noodle that. what does that mean?

1: check all fuses. in both boxes, EFI needs many fuses to work.
2: if cranks perfectly , does it?
3: we check for spark , in the blind hope compression is good all cyl.
4: spark is good, (and timing in the realm)
5: i then check spark tips, flooded, or dry ?
5a: dry, try test fuel. (spray)
5b; wet, i use supers secret (in opr guide) unflood mode.
"wide open throttle cranking"?
it starts and runs.
it start then stalls and floods again
or it was dry and runs for 3 seconds, test fuel tested.
so you lost injection
if lost, then we check fuel pressure next 30psi min,
cranking, if not 30, we check for 12v at pump, and so on........ask
ask for help if you make it this far.....
takes tools it does.

Sep 06, 2013 | 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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