Question about 1991 Honda Civic

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91 civic engine flooding

91 civic 4 cyl with duel point efi engine flooding with gas. i have good spark. the timing is good. fuses in engine compartment and under dash are good. is there a sensor or relay i could have missed.it wont start.just smell gas out tail pipe.or is it bad injector?

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2 things come to mind.. Fuel pressure regulator.. and Leaking injectors..

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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The car turns on, after 3 or 4 seconds the car shuts off.


expensive guessing there ,wow !

why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise.
engine stalls:
A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action????
yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system.
no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding.
did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval?
your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.???

stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above !
but here goes.
1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day.
2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc)
3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad.
4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM.
See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding.
fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it
harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it.
impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above.

all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools.
the engine runs by order. "classic list"
do the tune up.
1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time.
2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored?
3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test)
4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding)
5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed.

this gets most stalls.
if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue
regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.)
the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too.
good luck.

Mar 02, 2014 | 2004 Honda Civic 1.7

1 Answer

F6a efi wont start


there is the list , and correct order that always works.
1: fuses. good?
2: 12vdc to all EFI parts (battery charged? at 12.6vdc? rested)
use a voltmeter, no guessing... and the VM dont lie.
3: good compression, on all cylinders. 150psi w.o.t
if all are real low the cam belt/chain slipped. (generic post)
4: good spark, the ECU cuts fuel ifs spark is gone, so spark
on gas engines, is #4. i check timing to see if cam slipped.
5: good fueling. (too much or too little, it will not start)
i check for flooding with spark plug tip checks, soaking wet is flooding.
dry is lost fuel, try test fuel check now, (spray fuel)
if flooded do the super secret unflood test in the operators guide.
SS-= cranking with wide open throttle.

i bet its running now.

skipping 60k mile tune up's will cause no starts
as will bad fuel.

Feb 26, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Toyota corolla 94 is not working when I start the engine then after a few minutes reading will goes up top 600rpm


running, not reading; what engine option? Cyl count and displacement?
Is the CEL glowing key on, then turns off running> (check engine lamp)?
the engine RPM is too low. ok that is bad.
this is caused by up to 50 reasons. (flooding and misfire huge list )
ill just post the basic physics reasons.
(Classic, good compression, spark and fueling)
no fuses blown?. and 12vdc reaches all EFI parts. (weak battery is no go)
In generic form as there many engines used on corolla world wide.
1: low compression , less than 150psi on all 4. (if not V6)
if engine has cam belt? it slipped.
2; weak spark causing misfire, tune ups never done each 60k miles.
3: bad fueling. (too much is flooding misfire, if too little it starves)
4; EGR stuck open , we clean these ever 60k mile.
if it sticks open, idle will fail. (goes low) for sure.....!
5: the ISC sticks closed, same deal; so it gets cleaned.

The first thing to do is a tuneup per the FSM and operators guide.
the 60k it's called, do that and spark is good and fuel pressure returns.

this post assumes engine has full power at all times.
if not , better explain that, in details.

there are simple tests for all the above, $100 max i tools.

Feb 13, 2014 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

My 2000 Honda Civic CX will not start with the Map sencer Pluged in


you meant, car will not run right (unsaid)
so i unplugged the MAP sensor (forcing limp home mode)
when was last time car had fresh fuel.
when was last time car was a daily driver?> last week, last year?
by removing the map the limphome goes huge rich state.
so id say , the engine is in a very lean state and going to limphome
hides this situation.
why not post full symptoms , with all parts back on engine.
did do the 60k mile , tune up yet? if the cam belt snaps, say good by to a good engine. (boom) Timing belt, sparks and filters.?
1: cranks ok.?
2: wont start
3: is it flooding? or starving for fuel. spark plug tips dry or wet.
if spark is good all cylinders, (no engine option stated) then
i check timing, if off the belt (cam) slipped.
if the engine is flooding i do the flooding tests.
if its to lean i do the lean tests.
ASK .
for the lean test i check the ECT , then fuel pressure.
the fuel pressure is 10 tests on a V6.
I can also test the MAP in 5min with a voltmeter, to see if its right.

here is the list ,
Good voltage 12vdc to the EFI starting and running.
Good engine, spec compression,
good spark and timed correctly if, off its the cam belt slipped,
good fueling,
there are simple tests for each.
i also make sure the EGR is not stuck open on all cars with this.
and that the ISC is not dead.(stuck and dirty)



Feb 08, 2014 | 2000 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Intermitent dieing


metro, 1.0Liter>? 3cyl

or the LSI with the 4 cylinders.? TBI and not MPI

yours is TBI, One injector engine MPI came out in 1998.

your car has OBD2 computer so any scan tool will show

why spark is gone (if). (precursors ) cranked for 5seconds,



(what does has fuel mean? wet spark plug tips?)

got spark? it stalls and wont restart have half hour>?

intermittent engine stalling. seems starts cold and fails hot engine.



on all EFI, (besides a tune up) we check this.. (a full 60k tune up?)



1: if you loose 12vdc main power, at stall>? (dash lamps dim or die,

head lights dim or die? bingo!

no.

2: can you save the stall with a fast right foot?

a: easy (isc stuck closed?)

b: tad hard. (EGR main stuck open or or low fuel pressure)

c: impossible. (lost spark or near zero fuel pressure, 10PSI is no good.

which is it? and is #1 key to solving any EFI stalls !!!

3: lost engine compression say hot, never set valve lash ever? or cam belt slips or has slipped. ever do a 60k belt on cam, ever?



4: bad spark, weak, or dead, at fail, if spark timing is way off (check it) that mean the cam belt is bad and slipped. 60k mile service skipped.

5: bad fueling, (last) and the most complex.





that is the correct order, you can skip around but it only delays the discovery.

1 Bad DC power, 2 bad compression,3 bad spark 4bad fueling.

Example1:

you key on, and get CEL glowing, most likely the ECU has power

as that lamp tells you it has.

then you find its flooding, 99% are never tuned up, or lost spark

you check spark its gone, you check that cam spins (oil filler hole)

you connect scan tool and crank for 5seconds, the tool shows

CKP or CMP bad. the DTC error codes will tell you!!!

if spark is good, use the operators guide , for flooding

it says :crank at wide open throttle to clear foods"

it starts, and floods again. oops.

you check spark timing.and find the timing way off, retarded.

bingo the 60k belt slipped, fix belt.

you check compression (it should have been first) and find its 80psi

not 150 PSI (W.O.T)

belt slipped. (they all do , ignored, )



lets do one more,

: example.2

spark good,!

timing good on dizzy!

compression as spec. 150 x3 or 4.

it floods.

i find fuel pressure at 60PSI , 2 times spec.

i find the regulator bad, it fails all 6 tests in the fSM on this device.

or the fuel return line is clogged.

hope his helps. post engine size, and cyl. count.

and if ever tuned up this decade.

Feb 05, 2014 | 1997 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Car will not start like its not catching fire , i have a 2008 suzuki xl7


old post. but will answer.
the starter only cranks the engine, that is it's only job.
if it cranks robustly (at crank shaft pulley ,see it) then its ok.
250 RPM is typical cranking speed. RPM
no starts are complex.
for any engine Gas, to start you needs 4 things.
  1. ALL FUSE TO EFI GOOD, TEST THEM. CEL glows key on?
  2. full engine compression and crank vacuum 5" HG or more.?>??
  3. Spark , try a fresh tune up with fresh spark plugs. all 6 sparking.?
  4. Fueling , must be right. not flooding , not starving
if spark and engine are good, all engines(most) will start with test fuel.
This one simple test. proves the engine is ok, and spark is ok.
and the fuel system is dead.
these checks , will let is work the 4 systems. that might fail.
this is the classic basics path.
and works 99.% of the time.

exceptions, are clogged melted cat.
or stuck wide open EGR
or ISC stuck closed, (no starting air.) use 10% throttle to prove that.
or flooding, if flooding use super secret unflood mode (opr guide)
hold the throttle (right foot) pedal to the floor, this cuts fueling
and the flooded engine starts, for full time or runs and floods and stalls again.
This is called basics , in all ASE books in print.
RTM.


Jan 11, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1993 nissan sentra it has a staying running and sometimes cranking up it something to do with the fuel because when u give it acceleration it dies like it's not greeting the gas I changed the fuel...


Its and EFI car. (what engine size.? many engine options)
there are only 3 possibles
bad engine, seems not.
bad spark do the tuneup fully. this time. read the 60k mile list and do it
lost the oper..guide? it in the glove box guide.
last is EFI fueling.
once you get this far withj simple tests. (compression , spark and tuneup)
we land on fueling... too much or too little.
im not there,so cant smell it running rich or flooding or misfiring.
but i check the spark pug tips, just like grandpa did.
if they are dry, its starving,
if soaking wet with fuel its way too rich. flooding
if dry ,
we check fuel pressure next.
30PSI ok
60PSI floods bad.
10psi idles only (Bad)

we check that all 4 cylinders fire
and all 4 injectors is MPI are all good , and not clogged and leaking
state engine. size.



Dec 11, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No power won't hold idle


stalls. (hot engine, cold engine, both?)_what engine of the many.?
lost engine power. sure that will stall any motor.
ever tune it up r, or do the 60k mile service points, EVER?
if car was serviced, we can then say
Stalls.
1: lost 12vdc to EFI and spark , did dash lamps all go dead at stall.
can you save the stall with a fast right foot. (big clue there !!!)
2: lost compression hot. (guage it)
3: lost spark. (tests)
4: lost fueling, or floods more simple tests, ask if not known.
5: EGR main valve stuck wide open.
6: ISC stuck closed but will not stop power, or fast right foot.

lost fueling can be just the skippped, 60k fuel fuilter swap.

Dec 05, 2013 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Ymy battery light came on and everything on dash


shaking?
that means the engine stalled.
when the engine stalls. (do a tune up)
as the engine misfires, grossly , the 4 cyl . engine will shake.
and then it stalls
and many cluster lamps glow, CEL lamp. and charge glow.
you failed to look at engine RPM its wrong.
the normal hot RPM is about 800RPm for most cars.
and the engine EFI brain regulates there.
if the ECU brain can not regulate RPM at 800 that means you have gross misfiring, (lots of causes)
#1 cause, not doing tune ups, (aka, the 60k service points)

Oct 30, 2013 | 2003 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Once engine gets warm car refuses to start


with all engines, (otto cycle)
any engine Gasoline
1: compression drops hot. (valve lash is tops here)
2: lost spark. (did you check all 4 cyl for lost spark?) now is the time. (ill assume you can google,or youtube that , endless examples... and more every day.)
3: bad fueling. (complex but)
the tests is same 1920 to now, it's called LOOK at the spark tips.
are they dry, or wet.?
if dry do a test fuel run. (buy test fuel and use it)
if wet , (1st tune up in 19years.??????)
if wet diagnose flooding. (ask) complex answer.

the other possible is lost 12v power to the EFI system.
even an intermittent fuse. check power on all EFI fuses. at failure point, in fact all tests above are , yes, at the failure point.
not a perfect running car.

Oct 21, 2013 | 1994 Honda Accord

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