Question about 1991 Chevrolet Beretta

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Changing timing belt, now can't get everything back together, pully tensioner, seems not to fit

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  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett May 11, 2010

    A little more info please...like, how is it not fitting...Thanks

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Try “autozone.com” or your local library for diagrams and step by step instructions.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Need to change timming belt 1997 geo tracker


TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

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Remove water pump


Disconnect battery earth lead. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft whn timing beld removed. Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine. Turn engine in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated) Do not turn engine via camshaft or other sprockets. Observe all tightening torques. Remove engine, remve RH engine mounting. Remove auxiliary drive belts, water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley, timing belt upper cover, timing belt lower cover. Turn crankshaft clockwise to TDC on No. 1 cylinder, slacken tensioner bolts 5 & 6. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolts. Remove timing belt. Remove water pump and replace with new one. Suggest to replace cambelt as well.
Installation
Ensure timing marks aligned3 & 4. Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction, standing at crankshaft sprocket. Ensure belt is taut between sprockets on non-tensioned side. Slacken tensioner bolt 5. slacken tensioner bolt 6. Allow tensioner to operate. Tighten tensioner bolt 6. Tighten tensioner bolt 5. Turn crankshaft on turn clockwise. Ensure crankshaft sprocket timing marks aligned 4.
Slacken tensioner bolt 5. Slacken tensioner bolt 6. Allow tensioner to operate. Tighten tensioner 6. Tighten torque: 20 - 26 Nm. Tighten tensioner bolt 5. tighten torque: 20 - 26 Nm. Apply thumb pressure to belt at middle. Approximately 5kg. Belt should deflect to 1/4 of tensioner bolt head width 7. Belt tention can also be set using burroghs (BT-33-73F) tension gauge 10 at middle. Turn crankshaft 90 ° anti clockwise. Check belt tension is 9.5 16,5kg (engine must be cold). Install components in reverse order of removal. Fit cranckshaft pully. Tighten crankshaft pully bolts 8. G4-J: Tightening torque: 12-15Nm.
G4-N/G4-k: Tightening torque: 10-12Nm
G4EA: Tighten crankshaft pully bolt 9. Tighten torque: 140-150Nm.

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