Question about 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country

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My aux electric fan will not come on. It works when jumpered at relay terminal. But, I cannot find the sensor switch to bring the fan on, so that I can check it.

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  • donminniear Mar 08, 2009

    Ho do I check the sensor, and where is it? Thanks

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It is going to be the temp sensor, which relays info to the computer which in turn makes the fan come on. Does it work with the A/C on?

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

  • Eldric Venne
    Eldric Venne Mar 08, 2009

    Sensor should be in water jacket somewhere. Usually it is near the thermostat housing, or a water outlet housing.

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You need to check if it comes on when the A/C is on or Demist is selected.

If not then I would suspect low pressure in the A/C refrigerant.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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2 Answers

Radiator fan dosnt turn on


There are a few things to check out. First, verify that the fan itself is not defective. You can do this by jumpering 12V from the battery directly to the fan power terminal. It only takes a second to verify that the fan operates. If it does not, that it your problem. This is not the most likely problem, but the easiest to verify and eliminate.
There are a few electrical components to check out.
The first is the fan switch. It is located in the engine block, and it probe reaches into the water jacket to detect coolant temperature. When the coolant reaches a specified temperature, the switch closes. This provides a current path for the next component, which is the fan relay. The switch only closes the path to energize the relay. The relay's contacts, when closed, provide the actual voltage to the fan motor itself. So the fan switch or the fan relay could be defective. The switch is the most likely, but slightly more difficult to replace than the relay. If neither of them are the problem, then you need to troubleshoot the wiring itself. I have attached photos of the switch and relay as well as a diagram of the circuit. Hope this helps!

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Oct 09, 2015 | 1993 Toyota Tercel

2 Answers

What does this mean?????????????


P0480 Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Article by
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Don Bowman
ASE Certified Automotive Tech

Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit
What does that mean? This is a generic powertrain diagnostic trouble code (DTC), which means it covers all makes/models, 1996-newer. However, specific troubleshooting steps will vary depending on the vehicle.
If your vehicle's check engine light comes on and after pulling the code you find a P0480 displayed, if refers to the engine cooling fan circuit. It is a generic code applying to all OBD II (on board diagnostics) vehicles.
While you are driving, air in sufficient quantity is passing through the radiator effectively cooling the engine. When you bring the car to a stop no air is passing through the radiator and the engine begins to increase in temperature.
The PCM (powertrain control module) senses the increase in engine temperature through the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) located near the thermostat. When the temperature reaches about 223-degrees F (value depends on make/model/engine), the PCM will command the cooling fan relay to turn on the fan. It does so by supplying the ground to the relay.
There is a problem within this circuit causing the fan to fail to operate allowing the engine to overheat while sitting still or driving at a slow speed. When the PCM attempts to activate the fan and senses the command and the result do not match, the code is set.
NOTE: P0480 speaks of the basic circuit, however codes P0481, and P0482 relate to the same problem with the only difference is they relate to the different fan speed relays.
Symptoms Symptoms may include:

  • Check engine light (malfunction indicator lamp) illumination and code P0480 set
  • Engine temperature will rise when the vehicle stops and idles
Potential Causes The causes for this DTC may include:
  • Faulty fan control relay 1
  • Fan control relay harness is open or shorted
  • Circuit electrical connections poor
  • Faulty cooling fan 1
  • Faulty coolant temperature sensor
  • Fan cooling fan harness is open or shorted
  • Cooling fan circuit poor electrical connection
  • Intake air temperature (IAT) failure
  • A/C selector switch
  • A/C refrigerant pressure sensor
  • Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
Diagnostic and Repair Procedures It is always a wise idea to look up the technical service bulletins (TSB) on your particular vehicle to see what type complaints have been coming in to the dealer service department related to this code. Search using your favorite search engine "technical service bulletins for ....." Look up the code and the type of manufacturer recommended repair. This is also a good idea before buying a vehicle.
Many vehicles will have two engine fans, one for engine cooling and the second for cooling the air conditioning condenser, and additional cooling for the engine.
The fan that is not in front of the air conditioning condenser is the main cooling fan and the one to concentrate on initially. Additionally, many vehicles have multi-speed fans requiring as many as three fan speed relays for low, medium and high.
Open the hood and do a visual inspection. Look at the fan and make sure there is no obstruction in front of the radiator blocking airflow. Spin the fan with your finger (make sure the vehicle and key is off). If it will not spin the fan bearings are shot and the fan is bad.
Check the electrical connection at the fan. Pull the connector apart and look for corrosion or bent pins. Repair if necessary and use dielectric grease on the terminals.
Open the fuse block and inspect the cooling fan relay fuses. If they are good pull the cooling fan relays out. The bottom of the fuse block lid will usually indicate placement, but if not, look in the owner's manual.
The vehicle's PCM's function is to act as a ground to operate components, not to supply power. The fan relays are nothing but a remote light switch. The fan as well as other apparatus draws too much amperage to be safe in the cockpit, so it's kept under the hood.
A constant power supply from the battery is present on a terminal in each of the relays. This one turns on the fan when the circuit is closed. A switched terminal will be hot only when the key is on. The negative terminal in this circuit is the one used when the PCM wishes to active the relay by grounding it.
Look at the circuit diagram displayed on the side of the relay. Look for the simple open and shut circuit. Verify the battery positive terminal in the relay block with constant power. The opposite side goes to the fan. Use a test light to find the hot terminal.
Jump the battery terminal to the fan harness terminal and the fan will operate. If not, disconnect the fan connection at the fan and using an ohmmeter check the continuity between the fan side of the relay terminal and the connector at the fan, If there is continuity the fan is bad. If not the harness between the fuse block and the fan is faulty.
If the fan operated, check the relays. Look at the side of the relay for the switched power terminal or just turn the key on. Check the terminals for an additional power terminal and look where it would be on the relay.
Jump the battery plus terminal in the first test with this switched terminal and place an additional jumper from the negative terminal on the relay to ground. The switch will click on. Use an ohmmeter to test that the constant battery terminal and the fan harness terminal have continuity meaning the circuit has closed.
If the circuit has not closed or the relay has not clicked, the relay is bad. Check all the relays in the same fashion to be sure they are all working.
If there was no switched power at the relay, the ignition switch is suspect.
If they prove to be good, check the CTS with an ohmmeter. Pull the connector off. Let the engine cool and put the ohmmeter on the 200,000 scale. Probe the sensor terminals.
The reading will be about 2.5. For precise readings consult a service manual. Accuracy isn't necessary since all sensors may be different. You just want to know if it's working. Reconnect it and warm the engine.
Shut the engine down and pull the CTS plug again. Check it with the ohmmeter, there should be a big change in resistance, if not the sensor is bad.
If the above procedure could not find a failure, the probability is that a poor connection to the PCM or the PCM itself is at fault. Do not go any farther without consulting your service manual. Disconnecting the PCM could cause loss of programming and the vehicle may not start unless towed to the dealer for reprogramming.

Sep 23, 2015 | 2006 Volkswagen Jetta

4 Answers

How to test radiator fan motor


first check fluid lvl then check fuse for fan then unplug temp sensor switch and use jumper wire in the wire socket fan should come on if not check temp sensor switch.

Oct 31, 2014 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Coiling fan radiator


Having a problem with the electric fan? Here's what to check: first make sure fan is free-wheeling. Spin it by hand. If no obstructions, use jumper leads off the battery to test fan motor. If nothing, motor is bad. If fan operates off the battery, find the radiator fan relay under the hood, and pull it out. One relay terminal will have a hot at all times power source, probably from a fuse link or a maxi-fuse in the fuse/relay box. Check that one terminal is hot at all times, using a voltmeter or test light. If you have air conditioning, turn the AC on, key on. Now, two terminals at relay should show power-the power feed source, and the signal from computer to turn the relay on.
Didn't say what kind of car or year you have, but here is how an older Nissan turns the fan on, without using the computer, and with no AC: the relay signal to shoot power to the fan comes from a thermal switch mounted in the radiator. When coolant reaches 194 degrees F., the thermal switch will close contacts internally, passing power to the relay's coil side of relay. Relay is energized and passes power to the fan motor.
For your car, you will have to check a wiring diagram to see how the cooling fan circuit is set up. The fan relay may be triggered by the computer or by a coolant sensor somewhere in the coolant system.

Jul 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Fan not working...my car is overheating


The fuses are located in the fuse box under the hood, but could be the fan motor too, check if you have power at the motor

Mar 28, 2013 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

3 Answers

How do I check if my cooling fan works on a 3.5 montero sport suv


It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniture jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

Aug 26, 2011 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD

1 Answer

What Switch or control makes the radiater fan come on? and need the diagram for the radiator control switch, 1993 saturn sl2.


Ok. The way your system is set up,you have a fan switch located in the engine block,usually near the top.That fan swtich sends the voltage to the fan motor or to a fan relay then to the motor.You can jump the fan motor directly to make sure the motor itself is not burned out by unplugging the motor and running a jumper wire from your battery pos terminal to the terminals on the fan motor itself..If you have checked the motor and it does work,then the easiest thing to do is simply replace the fan switch.You should have a Coolant temp switch and a radiator fan switch and possibly and Radiator fan relay.I would try the radiator switch first,then replace the relay.The coolant temp sensor is for the computer and usually doesnt tie into the radiator fan switch.try that and repost.Good luck

Aug 23, 2011 | 1993 Saturn SL2

1 Answer

I have a 95" model ford aspire. Right now am experiencing a problem on mostly the fuel gauge and the cooling fan. the gauge does not indicate the amount of gas, while the cooling fan does not run. What...


cooling fan has a relay. check it first. Then check the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It is on the engine and sends a signal to the PCM, Engine Computer.
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Section 03-03: Engine Cooling 1996 Aspire Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Cooling Fan, Electric sty~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: WHEN WORKING IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, STAY CLEAR OF THE FAN BLADE. BECAUSE IT IS ELECTRIC AND TEMPERATURE SENSITIVE, IT CAN START AT ANY TIME IF THE IGNITION IS ON.
The electric cooling fan is an electro-drive type. Its operation depends upon engine temperature and ignition switch (11572) position. If engine coolant temperature reaches 97°C (207° F) and the ignition switch is in the ON position, the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) (12A648) sends a signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) which turns the engine cooling fan motor (8K621) and fan blade assembly on. Because it cannot operate unless the ignition switch is ON, the engine cooling fan motor and fan blade assembly does not operate after engine shutdown. The fan control relay (FC relay) is located in the LH front corner of the engine compartment, between the battery (10655) and the headlamp assembly. Circuit protection is provided by a 30A fuse labeled COOLING FAN in the main fuse junction panel to the left of the battery. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, an additional relay is installed in the circuit. The A/C clutch control relay (19D572) bypasses the engine temperature portion of the circuit. The bypass circuit allows the engine cooling fan motor to operate whenever the A/C switch is engaged.
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Fuel pump/sender access is through cover under rear seat.


Fuel Gauge

  1. Remove the instrument cluster. Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Using a jumper, connect the battery positive terminal to the fuel gauge "+" terminal and the battery negative terminal to the fuel gauge "-" terminal.
  1. Connect one lead of a Rotunda Instrument Gauge System Tester 014-R1063 or equivalent to the "F-U" terminal of the fuel gauge (9280), and connect the other lead to the "-" terminal of the fuel gauge.
  1. Adjust the instrument gauge system tester to the resistances shown in the illustration.


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  1. If the fuel gauge does not operate as specified, replace the fuel gauge. If the fuel gauge is OK, return to the Pinpoint Test.


Fuel Level Sensor

  1. Remove the fuel level sensor (9275). Refer to Section 10-01 for the removal procedure.
  2. Measure the resistance between terminal A and terminal B of the fuel level sensor.

    Connector Shown From Component Side
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  1. Adjust the fuel tank float to the following positions:
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  1. If the resistances are not as specified, replace the fuel level sensor. If the fuel level sensor is OK, return to the Pinpoint Test.
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Mar 27, 2009 | 1995 Ford Aspire

1 Answer

AUX FAN NOT WORK


hi,pls. check the circle module,mounted in chassis,left side,ty

Dec 12, 2008 | 1994 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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