My sons 94 buick lesabre brakes quit working without warning? The fluid
is full. I just put front brake pads on it and the pedal still goes to
the floor. It does make a noise like air rushing inside the car when
you push the pedal down. Any ideas?
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Re: 94 buick brakes
There could be 2 reasons that the pedal would go to the floor.1 -there is air in the system.If no one has taken a line loose then it will be #2 -the brake master cylinder has gone bad and will need to be replaced.Ther will be directions on how to do this proporely with the replacement unit.if you need further assistance let me know.
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I would jack up a front wheel and see if pushing on the pedal with the engine running will stop the wheel from turning. You need to know if the pressure is reaching the wheels, or if the pads and rotors are too slick to stop the car. Usually if the pedal is hard, the booster is not working or the brakes are glazed. Can you stop the car with the parking brake ? That only uses the rear brakes. You may need a second opinion from a different shop.
Look at fluid level, some systems invoke the parking light for low fluid. I presume to confuse you. I think the thinking works like this: When you have full new brakes and full M/C by the time the M/C fluid gets consumes by prake pad consumption, the light goes off. If you replaced the front pads, the fluid gets pushed back into the M/C resovoir, and the light goes out. Bet that you are pretty close to needing pads, presuming no leaks or other issues.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, then no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, then remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and the wheel assembly.
Hand-tighten 2 wheel lug nuts in order to retain the rotor to the hub.
Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad.
Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston pushes into the caliper bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
Front brake pads and related parts
Remove the lower caliper bolt (1).
Use care to avoid damaging pin boot when rotating caliper.
In order to access the pads, rotate the caliper upward and suitably support it.
Remove the pads (5) from the caliper bracket (3).
Remove the 2 retainer slides (4) from the caliper bracket (3).
Inspect all parts for cuts, tears, or deterioration. Replace any damaged parts.
Inspect the caliper bolts for corrosion or damage. If corrosion is found, use new caliper bolts when installing the caliper.
Using a C-clamp, bottom the piston into the caliper bore. Use an old brake pad or wooden block across the face of the piston. Do not damage the piston or the caliper boot.
Install the 2 retainers to the caliper bracket.
The wear sensor is on the outside pad. The sensor is positioned at the leading or upward edge of the pad during forward wheel rotation.
Install the pads to the caliper anchor bracket.
Use care to avoid damaging pin boot when rotating caliper.
Remove the support and reposition the caliper (2) back down over the front pads.
Lubricate the pin bolt and the inner diameter of the bolt boot with GM P/N 18047666, or equivalent. Do not lubricate the threads of the pin bolt.
Install the lower caliper bolt. Tighten the caliper bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Remove the 2 wheel lug nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
Install the tire and the wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then, repeat steps 10 and 11 until a firm brake pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE 2/3 BRAKE FLUID FROM THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR.YOU WILL NEED A LARGE C- CLAMP TO BOTTOM THE PISTON INTO THE CALIPER BORE USING A OLD BRAKE PAD OR WOODEN BLOCK ACROSS THE FACE OF THE PISTON.DONT DAMAGE THE PISTON OR THE CALIPER BOOT.WARNING WHEN FINISHING PUTTING ON NEW FRONT BRAKE SHOES.PUT COVER ON BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR MAKE SURE BRAKE FLUID NOT LOW.PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL BRAKES FEEL FIRM THEN CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL AGAIN ADD MORE FLUID IF NEEDED UNTIL LEVEL CORRECT.YOU ARE DONE. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOLID FIRM BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING.YOU WILL NEED THREADLOCKER GM P/N 12345493 ON THE CALIPER BOLTS OR EQUIVALENT THE AUTO PARTS STORE WILL HAVE THREADLOCKER.
Yes sounds like serious problem, especially the harder to stop, If you mean the car just isn't stopping as fast and included with the pedal getting closer to the floor sounds like you have a brake fluid leak. Might be leaking from a line maybe the master cylinder or caliper or wheel cylinder, any which way probably should get checked out.
replace the hydraulic hose also --- the hose can collapse inside and the brake fluid cannot return, (allowing the pressure at the caliper piston to relieve), and your caliper sticks --- it is actually the piston that is stuck.
Warped rotors or bad brake pads. Remove and replace. It could aslo your electronic brake pressure modulator valve. Its on the left side under your dash. When you start your car does the red BRAKE warning light come on for a few seconds and then go out? If it does, that's normal, and your problem is warpage or pads. Be sure your brake fluid resovoir is full too.
if you can see a good amount of wet brake fluid between the brake master cylinder and the brake booster. and you have been adding fliud often,you could have a bad master cylinder. it has to be replaced not rebuilt. you however may have a far more common problem, a rusted through brake line.have someone pump the brake pedal, than look under the car for a brake fluid leak ,repair as needed. than bleed the brakes for a good hard brake pedal
good luck chris
start bleeding your brakes from the rear wheels and work your way to the front. I'm assuming you already did a pad change since you say you got the air out. make sure you keep the fluid level and not let it get too low while you're bleeding them or air will get into the master cylinder and you have to start all over again. Make sure you have someone help you that is competent enough to hold the brake pedal down all the way and not let off even the slightest bit until you get the bleeder screw tightened.
i'm thinking the emergency brake lever is down just a bit. try lifting it up when it does it to see if it shuts off. or maybe the float in the brake fluid res. is faulty. maybe try unplugging the wire at res. level sensor.