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OK,GMC/GM are wired as such. White/Black wire, front left -[neg] White, front left +[pos]. Grey/Black wire, front rt -[neg], Grey wire, front rt +[pos]....Green/Black wire, left rear [neg], Green, left rear [pos]....Violet/,Black , Rt rear [neg],...Violet, Rt.rear [pos]........You will also have a Blue/Red wire that goes to antenna. ..A Blue wire for Power Remote....Red goes to IGNITION.....Yellow goes to Battery[for clock].....And finally a Black goes to Ground.......I hope that you have good luck and everything works out for you. `
If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
Almost all car batteries have 2 pos and 2 neg. More precisely, 1 pos post and 1 side connector, 1 neg post and 1 neg side connector. You only usually use use one set or the other depending on what connectors are on the end of your cables. You can connect something else to the side posts if you need to, but generally only pair is used.
replace the leads with a heavier grade of lead insulation Use spacer bars to seperate the leads as the current will jump to the lead of lower resistance ( ie piston not in compression mode). Spark jumping will cause problems not the least being a blown motor through firing at the wrong time
THEIR ARE A FEW PROBLEMS THAT IT COULD BE,SOME MECHANICAL KNOWLEGE IS REQUIRED, THE EASIEST THING FOR YOU TO DO IS TO TAKE THE DOOR PANEL OFF,FIND THE PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE WINDOW MOTOR GET A HOT BATTERY WITH TWO JUMPER WIRES AND ATTACH THEM TO THE BATTERY AND TOUCH THEM TOO THE PLUG OF THE MOTOR YOU CAN REVERSE THE WIRE FOR UP OR DOWN.POS NEG OR NEG POS FOR UP OR DOWN.YOU COULD ALSO HAVE A BAD MASTER WINDOW SWITCH IVE SEEN THAT IT WILL WORK IN ONE DIRECTION AND NOT THE OTHER ,AND MANY OF PEOPLE HAVE THOUGHT IT WAS THE MOTOR .THATS WHY I IF YOU DONT HAVE A EXTRA MASTER SWITCH LAYING AROUND TO TEST ITS EASIER TO JUMP THE MOTOR,IF IT GOES UP AND DOWN AT THE MOTOR THEN SWITCH IS BAD OR FUSE OR RELAY ...WHICH YOU SHOULD CHECK TOO BUT USUALLY IF THEY ALL THE OTHERS WORK THEN PROB NOT A RELAY.ALSO CHECK ON EBAY FOR YOUR PART ITS CALLED A WINDOW REGULATOR AND MOTOR IT COMES ALL TOGETHER.ITS BOLTED TO THE DOOR .IF YOU TOOK IT TO A SHOP EXPECT TO PAY 250 TO 350.THANKS AND GOOD LUCK
if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.
You got the ignition cover, what you need to do an cylinder compression test and also check your injector for voltage while engine running hook test light to battery pos on neg and neg on pos, at injector harness check for pulsation, if you have pulsation elec. system ok, if good compression bad injector.if bad compression piston ring's or valve's.