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Drain the oil, Remove the bolts/screws holding the pan onto the bottom of the engine. Remove all traces of old gasket. Clean the mating surfaces. Use bearing grease to stick the gasket onto the engine. Replace the pan and all bolts.
It is recommended that you lift out the engine before attempting to replace the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted you can remove the bolts, remove the pan, clean all the old gasket material.
Remove the rear main bearing cap oil seal
Remove the timing cover oil seal
Clean all the mating surfaces and seal grooves
Install new oil pan front cover seals
Install a new rear main bearing cap oil seal
Install new oil pan side gaskets on the block
Make sure the tabs of the front and rear seal fit properly as these are critical spots
Attach the oil pan to the engine block and install the retaining bolts
Bearings are located at each "big end" of every connecting rod (the rod that connects each piston to the crankshaft and at each crank support (part of the engine block) To measure wear on a bearing you need something called "plastigage" which is placed betweenthe bearing surface and the crank, the cap re-torqued then removed. You then measure the spread of the gauge material with a micrometer. If you remove any bearing and see brass backing instead of bearing material, you don't need to measure it...It is gone.You need to check all the bearings in this manner. If any Main bearings are worn, the engine needs to be removed as that is the ONLY correct way to replace them without having another immediate failure. I'm not saying this to be insulting, but if you need to ask where the bearings are, it is likely you should not be doing this work. Though it appears to be a "take out, put in" operation, it takes experience and skill not only to do the job correctly but to recognize things inside that can bite you in the **** if they are not taken care of. One other item....If you don't understand this answer do not rate it. I only am a beginner (40 years in repair, many spent building 7,000 hp race engines) so, I'm not very sure about the answer (if you believe that, monkeys will fly tomorrow!!!) We do this free and really don't need a poor rating for a perfectly good answer!!! Good luck!
Double check the oil pressure with manual gauge, but probably toast.
Still is it also probably only 1 rod bearing.
You may be able to drop the pan and change just that one bearing, if you have not ruined them all yet.
Worth trying. Not hard or expensive to try replacing the bearing shells. But don't bother if the journal is scored.
The oil pressure "sending unit" pump is located in the oil pan, in/at the bottom of the engine. It's not something I'd recommend trying if you've never attempted a lengthy or relatively difficult repair, without guidance. You don't indicate if you have 2wd of 4wd. However, in any event, you're going to have to remove the oil pan. It will most likely require you to loosen the motor mount(s) and jack/lift up the engine. Not necessarily the best way, but the easiest. I'd be concerned with engine wear also if the oil pump is bad. Which would require you to at least change the connecting rod and main bearings.
While you have the transmission removed be sure to replace the rear main bearing seal.On a1982 you will have to remove the oil pan to replace the seal,It has a two piece seal.After removal of the oil pan carefully remove the back main bearing cap,you will have to use a straight pick to roll the top seal out of the block.Lubricate the deal with oil before you install it.Be sure to get a new oil pan gasket with your other parts.Make sure you torque your main bearing cap to manufacturer's specifications.
Sounds like you have either an obstructed oil pump screen or a bearing beginning to go bad (generally rod bearings go first) You need to verify oil pressure with an external mechanical gauge or just drop the pan and remove the bearings. If they need replacing, use plasti-gauge to determine how much wear you have and replace with the proper bearing sizes. Without machining crank journals this is very important as one size does not fit all!!! Reason it happens more when warm is that the oil becomes thinner when hot and flows out the bearing sides much easier, lowering pressure. One note: if this has been going on for any length of time, it's not worthwhile to do a bearing change without removing and installing all bearings (requires engine removal) otherwise, repair will last only a few weeks at best.
Pump is fairly simple...remove pan unbolt pump and reverse procedure. It is good to pre-lube pump and fill oil filter before starting engine. BUT: Keep in mind that a damaged pump is generally not the cause but the result of a failure elsewhere. Primary reason is rod or main bearing wear, resulting in debris scoring the pump gears and internal surfaces. Therefore, changing the pump will at best, slightly raise pressure only for a very short time. If after removing the pan, you find that the pump pickup is nearly blocked off by hard carbon deposits, you may have a chance of regaining pressure, providing bearings have not been damaged by low oil suppply caused by that restriction.
Section 03-01: Engine, 4.6L (4V)
1997 Continental Workshop Manual
Oil Pan/Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube
Turn rear suspension leveler compressor switch (5K761) off (located in luggage compartment).
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
Remove oil level dipstick (6750).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .
Drain engine oil from crankcase.
Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the low oil level sensor connector.
Remove the power steering pressure hose retainer brackets from the engine front cover studs (two places). Position the power steering pressure hose (3A719) out of the way.
Remove 16 bolts retaining oil pan (6675) to cylinder blocks (6010) and remove oil pan and oil pan gasket (6710).
Remove two bolts retaining oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) to oil pump (6600).
Remove bolt retaining oil pump screen and cover and tube support brace to main bearing stud spacer.
Remove oil pump screen cover and tube. Discard O-ring.
Bolt (16 Req'd)
Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube
Oil Pan Gasket
Tighten to 20 Nm (14 Lb-Ft), then rotate 60 degrees clockwise Installation
Inspect oil pump screen cover and tube and replace if necessary.
Position oil pump screen cover and tube on oil pump with a new O-ring and hand-start two bolts.
Install bolt retaining oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer finger-tight.
Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in). Tighten oil pump screen cover and tube to main bearing stud spacer bolt to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
Clean oil pan and inspect for damage.
Clean sealing surfaces of engine front cover (6019) and cylinder blocks with a clean cloth. If scraping is required, only use plastic-tipped scrapers to prevent damaging the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Position new oil pan gasket on oil pan.
Apply Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A6 where engine front cover meets cylinder blocks and crankshaft rear oil seal retainer meets cylinder blocks. Position oil pan on cylinder blocks and install 16 bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft), then rotate an additional 60 degrees clockwise.
If oil pressure was fine before you changed the gasket, it's likely that some debris was loosened up (probably under the pan baffle) and got onto the oil pump pickup, restricting flow. The only other cause of low pressure would be worn engine bearings, which would not happen just by changing oil pan, unless you messed with either bearings or pump while pan was down. Remove the pan and carefully inspect the pump pickup for debris!!! DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE 'TILL YOU HAVE CORRECTED THIS OR YOU WILL DAMAGE BEARINGS!!!