Question about 1998 Jeep Cherokee

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Steering problem when wheel returns to straight from turning, it pulses, as though tires are cupped, which they are not.

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  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    What pulses, the whole car, the brakes or the steering wheel? For now, I'll guss the steering wheel...Check your tires for out of round or broken belt. Jack up one wheel and spin it...check for bulges in sidewalls or tread. Check for "runnout" by sighting across tire towards rear of car as it turns and see how much in-out variation you have. (also wouldn't hurt to check for binding "u" joints on axles while you're there!)



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I'm not sure, but it sounds like your front axle is still engaged. You will experience this on asphalt or concrete that is dry. If you pull on to a dirt road and the problem is not as pronounced then that is a tell tail sign the front axle is still engaged. Block the rear wheels. Jack the front end up and see if the driveline will turn. If it turns freely then you have a different problem If the driveline can't be turned then the transfer case has not disengaged for some reason. Sometimes the transfer cases get wrapped up as they call it. Back the vehicle up while shifting from 4 HI to 2 HI. This may disengage the transfer case and allow it to return to 2 wheel drive.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009


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99 mercury grand marquis.the steering wheel does not return to center on its own. And the steering wheel isn't in right position when the wheels are straight.?

the return to the center on it's own is a result of the wheel alignment castor setting
if it set at zero or minus setting ( -1 degree) it has no action requiring it to return to center
To explain how it works --- the angle at which the king pin is set back ( positive degree) lowers the car
when turning a circle , the car is lifted up and loads up the king pin
when you let the wheel go that weight tries to fall down and that is the return to center position action
so to fix that problem , have a wheel alignment done and set at positive degrees ( normally around 1 1/2 degrees)
next problem is when you set with the wheels straight ahead there is no allowance for the camber of the road ( used to allow water run off in the rain) that means that if you position the wheel straight ahead when on flat ground then when driving down the road you will have the wheel slightly off center to allow for the car trying to run off the road from the road camber
it could also mean that if you have had suspension or steering work done that the steering was not centralized when the tie rod ends were adjusted for toe in adjustment and so the box /rack is now set slightly one way
it could also mean that the rear end is out of alignment and the vehicle is running sideways down the road ( crabbing)
the fix is to find yourself an accredited wheel alignment shop and have an alignment done properly starting by aligning the rear wheels first and then the front many will say not necessary but I can assure you that it is vital for tire wear and vehicle handling and if they don't want to do the job properly go somewhere else

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Engine roaring above 30mph

Is it possible you are hearing a wheel bearing instead of the engine or exhaust ?
Normally a bearing will roar on a turn and not on a straight stretch, but I guess its possible to do it the other way. A tire will make a roaring noise too.
I can't think of anything related to the engine that would roar only on a turn except maybe the power steering.

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Steering wheel shudder turning right at low speeds, then some at no turning, quicker pulses though straight driving at low speeds

could be a shifted belt in one of the tires. could also be a cv axle that is binding. have it looked at by a pro. good luck

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As you brakes wear down your fluid level goes down with them. The pulsing is probably tires.

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My front tires are cupped almost bald on the inside and outside. almost all tread left in the center

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