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Re: I need to replace the EGR valve.
No need to remove or move the alternator. You can get on the 10mm bolt with a short 1/4" socket and ratchet. Take the EGR tube off first, be careful not to lose the tube to EGR valve gasket. I usually use anti-seize when I put the EGR valve back on. That would be the mount bolts for the valve and the tube.
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It is depending on your experience and the location of the alternator. You'll need the proper tools, and it is recommended to remove the alternator and take it in when you purchase the replacement to be sure you get the right one. Also, you won't be charged for the core because you will already have it there.
Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting the job. Some alternators are really buried in the engine compartment, so you may need to remove other components to gain access. You'll also need to remove the serpentine belt, so be sure you know how to do that.
Hello Alexis,My name is Andres and i will help you with the problem that you are having There is no tensioner per se on the 240. The tensioning is done by moving the alternator. At the top of the alternator there is a tensioning arm with an elongated hole in it. There is a square necked screw which goes through the arm and fastens to the alternator. At the end of the arm there is an adjusting screw. As you are removing the alternator forget about the adjusting screw. Slacken the nut on the square necked screw and push the alternator to the side, releasing the tension. If the alternator won't move, loosen the flange screw underneath the alternator until it will. With the belt off remove the wires from the back of the alternator, making sure you know which goes where. Remove the two bolts you have loosened and remove the alternator. HAVE IN MIND THAT There is a problem on the older 240 series, 1984 B23F I know from personal experience, with the ground not being intact between the alternator and the metal grounding point. Please check the wiring loom before you re-install your new alternator for a good grounding wire, or you'll be wondering why your Swede won't crank when you've just replaced the alternator. If worst comes to worst, you can create a temporary ground for the alternator with a piece of copper wire. Connect one end to a good unpainted ground near the alternator(strut towers will do), and the other to the attachment bolt on the alternator mounting bracket itself. This will suffice until you can get it properly fixed
Do you have a digital camera? Take pictures of your engine bay,especially the belt routing and save them to your computer for later viewing.
Next push down on your belt with enough pressure to see which pulley arm moves.This is your tensioner,if you put a box end wrench on the bolt of that pulley you can push down on it and release the tension on the belt for removal.
Then look at your pictures as to how the belt was originally installed.You'll need to move that tensioner enough to replace the belt.After replacing the belt make sure it's on 100% before starting the engine.
Sounds like either the belts routed wrong or the tensioner isn't tensioning anymore. Any pulley that seems to have no pump alternator etc. should be one or two look for one that has a spring or with an arm that moves a wrachet could be inserted into a square hole on it to pull it back in many cases. Some wont have the fitting though and you'd have to use a pry bar or something. Any way hope it helps
REPLACING ALTERNATOR The tensioner pulley is toward the front of the car, best reached underneath (I had my car up on ramps when I did the replacement, which was a god idea) - I think it is a 13mm wrench used to move pulley toward the back of the car to loosen the serpentine belt. Then slid the belt from around the alternator pulley so that the alternator could be removed. The alternator comes out the top of the engine compartment, but to take it out you have to remove the coolant reservoir, and the wiper fluid container to have socket access to the three bolts that mount the alternator. One bolt is on top, the other two are underneath (looking at the new alternator is a good reference to see where the bottom two bolts are located). There are also two electrical connectors and the nut-mounted positive cable that need to be removed prior to taking thealternator out. There is not much room to get the old alternator out, but you will find one position in which the alternator can be removed - keep notice if this, as the new one has to go in the same way as the old one came out.
Having a second person around to move the tensioner pulley while you work on the belt would have made life easier. REPLACING SERPENTINE BELT
If you look down at the belt area, you will see a pully toward the front of the car that looks like it's attached to an arm. That is the tensioner pully. The tensioner is spring loaded. If you look at the arm of the tensioner there should be a square hole in it to insert a socket wrench or a breaker bar/pull handle to use as a lever to remove the tension from the belt. If there is no hOle, then use a wrench(possibly 15mm) on the bolt head of the pully itself as your lever. As you hold the tensioner out of the way, unloop the old belt. Pay attention to the routing, so you can reinstall the new one correctly. Then, you route the new one in and again use your lever to move the tensioner so you can get the belt over the last pulley. Put it over the alternator last. Use a light to make sure the belt is fully on all 5 grooves of every single pulley before you start the car
The belt tensioner actually has a locking feature on it. Once the tensioner is in place you are supposed to tighten the bolt center of the tensioner pully which locks in in place. Try loosening this bolt slightly and then moving the tensioner.
Open the hood and disconnect the battery ground cable.
Remove the adjusting arm bolt.
Remove the alternator through-bolt. Remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley and lower the alternator.
Some engines are equipped with a ribbed, K-section belt and
automatic tensioner. A special tool must be made to remove the tension
from the tensioner arm. Loosen the idler pulley pivot and adjuster
bolts before using the tool. See the accompanying illustration for tool
Label all of the leads to the alternator so that you can install them correctly and disconnect the leads from the alternator.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install, reverse the above procedure. Torque the pivot bolt to
58 ft. lbs.; the adjusting bolt to 25 ft. lbs.; the wire terminal nuts
to 60-90 inch lbs.
BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
The fan belt
drives the alternator and water pump. If the belt is too loose, it will
slip and the alternator will not be able to produce it rated current.
Also, the water pump will not operate efficiently and the engine could
overheat. Check the tension of the belt by pushing your thumb
down on the longest span of the belt, midway between the pulleys. Belt
deflection should be approximately 1
inch; (13mm).To adjust the belt tension, proceed as follows:
Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and the adjusting arm bolts.
Apply pressure on the alternator front housing only, moving the
alternator away from the engine to tighten the belt. Do not apply
pressure to the rear of the cast aluminum housing of an alternator;
damage to the housing could result.
Tighten the alternator mounting bolt and the adjusting arm bolts when the correct tension is reached.
Check that the alternator belt is well in tension, there is a tensioner, is the arm that move the pulley, you may need to use a rubber hammer to put it well in tension. Check also the alternator wirings and the connectors.