- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
some of these were manual clutch cable check adjustment of cable at firewall (bulkhead) and check for cracks around where cable goes through to inside cab common on old girls.
if hydraulic clutch system
check fluid in clutch master cylinder is it low?
it could have leaking slave cylinder on gear box bell housing or your clutch needs replacing, gear box out and replace clutch as a kit, pressure plate, clutch plate, thrust bearing (comes as kit) but dont forget to check and or replace the spigot bearing in the rear of the crank shaft when doing clutch kit.
It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.
Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.
The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The cause could be external or internal.
First check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir could be independent of the brake system or using the same.
If the level is too low, air may have entered in the line and the hydraulic compression is affected. So first, adjust the level in the reservoir using recommended oil. (normally brake oil is ok).
Check for any oil leak starting from the clutch pedal following hydraulic circuit up to the transmission.
Your vehicule should have two clutch cylinders: the master and the slave.
The master cylinder is operated by your clutch pedal, it's located under the dash, fixed to the firewall and connected to the hydraulic line on the other side of the firewall. Check for any leak on the carpet, under the carpet and near the hydraulic connection. Pumping the pedal making that verification could help to detect leak. Then follow the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder attached to the transmission making a visual inspection for leaks.
If for any reason some air entered the circuit, the line could be purged from air bleeding the slave cyclinder as you do bleeding brake component.
If there is no air, no leak detected then it's probably an internal problem that you can't see. Remove the cap from the reservoir, depress the pedal. If the oil is moving in the reservoir then the master slave is probably bad otherwise I would suspect the slave.
I'm not an Isuzu technician.
Some other Gurus could complement or correct my saying.
Hope it will help
If hydraulic actuated mechanism, loss of fluid, defective master cylinder or slave cylinder at the clutch. Missing pin or other part between slave cylinder and clutch arm. Loose or broken slave cylinder mounting. Missing pin or broken part between pedal and master cylinder. If mechanical linkage, look for broken components or missing pins at moving joints. If you tried to shift into gear with engine running, you may have damaged the transmission gears.
did you bleed the clutch? there's a bleeder nut/bolt on the slave cylinder. have someone pump up the cluth and hold, then loosen nut/bolt and air will come out. repeat process untill pedal has resistance and good fluid coming from bleeder. make sure to top of fluid during process, if you run it dry, you have to repeat the whole process again. note, i'm assuming this due to my experince on other vechiles, never worked on an isuzu before. but had the same issue on others.