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You don't have fire , never heard it called that before ! Battery voltage , power but never fire ! An open CTSY fuse located in the I/P fuse block will affect the operation of the right front turn signal only
Turn Signal/Hazard Lamps
When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, a ground signal is completed from the turn signal switch to the BCM. When the hazard flasher switch is activated, a ground signal is completed from the turn signal/hazard switch to the BCM. The BCM then sends an ON-OFF voltage signal through the fuses to the appropriate turn signal and side repeater (export only) lamps or to all of the turn signal fuses for hazard operation. The driver door switch and passenger door switch also receive voltage from the BCM turn signal supply voltage circuits for the mirror turn signals. The door switches have no function or control of the mirror turn signals other than a pass through connection for the circuits. The audio chime is also activated when the turn signals are ON. The instrument panel cluster (IPC) receives the signals to activate the turn signal indicators over the GMLAN serial data system. When the hazard switch is pressed, all turn signal lamps will flash including both IPC turn indicators.
Ground is applied at all times at G201 to the turn signal/multifunction switch. The turn signal lamps may only be activated with the ignition switch in the ON or START position. When the turn signal/multifunction switch is placed in either the TURN RIGHT or TURN LEFT position, ground is applied to the body control module (BCM) through either the right turn or left turn signal switch signal circuit. The BCM then applies a pulsating voltage to the front and rear turn signal lamps through their respective control circuits.
testing a battery with a multimeter is a waste of time . To properly test a battery you need a load meter that registers the battery voltage before and during a heavy discharge situation. If the alternator will not charge a battery it may be from the fact that the rectifier in the alternator is not working . You may be getting 12 volts but if it is ac current ( what an alternator produces) then the battery will never charge as what goes in immediately comes back out.. If the switch sparked at you it is because there is a dead short in the circuit that jumped the points in the switch. If you are still using the vice grips on the un -fused wire then that is a receipe for disaster. Basically when you have a vehicle like you have it is best to restore everything to original first then find where the faults are using a schematic diagram from a genuine workshop manual.
that year 1986 alternator voltage regulator either external or internal follow alternator battery feed wire if you see battery feed wire going to black box mounted on fire wall you have external voltage regulator.if voltage regulator okay problem could be alternator fuse or fuse link could be faulty battery cables if cables over 20 years old but make sure alternator drive belt tension correct.
Check alternator fuse , it's should be a high amp fuse . Question is did you give some one a jumb start , this could happen , another thing to check is your ignition fuse and your ignition switch , but first check all fuses . Including the big once under the hood and inside the car . Good luck and I hope this helps
Hello, I think I would just change the Ignition switch if you do not want to test the circuit to the Alternator. When you run the Alternator, it needs an input of 12 volts before it can make an output charge of Amperage to the Battery. If the Alternator is not getting power through the Keyswitch, it will not work.
This would not show up on a bench test of the Alternator, because they would hook up a 12 volt source in the shop. The problem is the wiring in your car, something is preventing the Alternator from receiving the power it needs to work. Besides fuses, some cars use Relays which are in an underhood Powerbox.
Ask the Autoparts clerk what they show for power Relays for your car. If they show just straight fuses, then you have already looked at the fuses and probably have a bad Ignition switch. The Alternators have had built-in Regulators for some time so unless you have a separate Regulator all it can be is a power feed problem to the Alternator.
this is not a fuse problem, replace the large connector to the alternator, the Ford dealer can supply this, there are numerous Ford bulletins about this connector overheating and giving a no charge condition
you may need to go back and get another alternator cause this one sounds as if it has a bad voltage regulator in it also give these websites a try www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com also checkout your drivebelt if the car has over 40,000 miles on it you may want to change it also wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
Could be numerous things. The parts related to making the ignition coil work correctly is the computer which signals the firing, the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors that tell the computer where the shafts are and that info is used by the computer. If you have either of those sensors fail then the computer will not signal the firing of the coil. These sensors usually work or don't and if you have crankwalk where the shafts are moving out of position (mostly on 2G's) then that would cause the car to stop firing but sounds like one of those are bad.
Alternatively if you can't start the car and it just clicks then could be the neutral safety switch and needs unplugged under dash. Green and black wire from button behind clutch pedal upper arm and trace to a white connector and disconnect. That switch will make the car not start but if it's cranking then probably not. Just disabled mine that was faulty on a 95.
Beyond that possibly a bad computer or a fuse for the ignition and engine. Check those fuses under the hood.
When you say it has lost power, the engine is running but is bogging down or is it electrical because you replaced the battery and alternator, no headlights or gauges are not working.
Let me know.