I just had mine fixed for that very same problem YESTERDAY.....you have several "coils"/sparkplugs that should be replaced....MISFIRE....you should have it put on a machine that will read which one it is....problem targeted. The best thing to do though is change all of them. they break 1 after the other. i replaced 2 within 3 months. Later i decided i didn't want to go have it done once a month, so i bit the bullet and spent the money.....
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If one of the engine components is acting up, you should get a check engine light and have codes for the components. If the light is not coming on, it could be a suspension or mechanical problem.
Low fuel pressure could also do it.
Someone would need to check the fuel pressure with a gauge before and after you start it. Could be the pump relay or the check valve inside the fuel pump in the tank. If the check engine light is on you would need to get the computer scanned for trouble codes.
You can get an ACTRON scanner from Sears. The regular or plus version ($179). Harbor Freight sells scanners too.
But, you can go to AUtozone or most other stores and get the codes read for free when the CEL is on.
Get codes, report back before buying anything.
Sometimes codes are caused by other engine problems that influence the sensors and turn the light on.
on the right side of the engine compartment you should find a red plastic dipstick remove it from tube and check fluid mark do this on level ground and engine idling in park. fluid has to be between the add and full marks at bottom of stick use dexron 3 automatic transmission fluid the fluid is added into the tube the stick came out of.
Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold. I had a Chevy Suburban that acted the same way, it turned out to plugged catyletic converter. The converter wasn't letting the exhaust out, the truck had no power, it would stall and then start right up and great for about five seconds the run rough and quit. Once I disconnected the exhaust it started right up and ran great. You could also try taking the O2 sensors out (for test purposes) ahead of the converter that will give the exhaust a place to go