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Hi Erik, I'm Al the owner of Big A's Auto Repair
Erik, this is call the process of elimination, what you'll need to do is unplug the liter wiring and see if it still blows the fuse. Most of the time when the liter element goes bad it because it has an eternal short. If it still blows the fuse, hook it back up and unplug the radio, if it still blows the fuse, then you may have wiring shorting out somewhere behind the dash. NOTE: If the short does go away during the process of elimination. Then you'll need to replace the thing that was causing the short. If you need further assistance go to my website. Have an awesome day Erik. Auto Repair
Check bulb first. Check position of on / off / override switch on Light Assembly. Do local or dash switches & lamp actually work. If not, check fuse. If OK then remove door switch & look behind. If one wire is used then short to good ground. Light should come on.
If 2 wires used then join together. Light should come on.
Use a test lamp or voltmeter to check wire for 12 volts? No Voltage. Trace wire to nearest connector block or firewall connectors. Short switch so that light would normally come on then trace backwards. thump and bang connectors as you go as most faults like this are just poor connections and a tap or bump might just help isolate the problem. A simple signal injector / tracer device is pretty cheap these days and can assist is locating where wire travels.
Check around the tail lights for rust. There is a dead short somewhere. Could be on the drivers side under the strip just inside the door on the floor. Usually you have to take four to five screws out to expose the wiring. I found one time where the left foot would rest that the wires were rotten causing a short. Electical problems are not fun. Happy hunting.
turn key on,and start by testing each fuse with a test light to see if you have power on both sides of the fuse, if you find no bad fuses,locate your blower motor under the dash and behind the glove box,find the two wires going to it and check with your test light for power,if you have power there replace motor,if you don't follow the motor wire where they plug into a resistor"about 12 inches away",and replace the resistor.
i would start by checking each fuse in fuse box,[both sides of fuse] with test light 12 volt,[usually there is a metal spot on both sides of fuse that you can check with test light,or volt meter with metal probe on end of test lead wire].
you have a loose wire or a short somewhere in the dash. Hopefully you can fix without changing the harness out. I'd try some test to try to isolate the problem. with the engine off, and the lights on and radio on, reach under the dash to where your fuses are located and lightly move the wires coming from the fuse box watching and listening for the short. If you cant locate here, move your hand deeper into the dash again lightly mving the wires behind the radio and then the light swtich. good luck of finding this.
First check your fuses. If the fuses are good you have to check the wiring around and behind the cd player. There will be a loose, broken, or disconnected wire causing the problem. The wire could be a ground or hot wire. To find this if it is not a fuse will be time consuming but that is what has to be done there is no real short cut in this case.
your fuse panel is either under the dash by the drivers left knee or on the side of the dash where it meets the door. the radio fuse should be the second from the top right side of the fuse panel. its a 10 amp fuse. the power for the switch should be a 16 gauge wire run from the passenger firewall (under hood.) behind a plastic cover where a lot of wires are bolted to posts. that red wire feeds power to almost everything in the cab. it runs behind the glove box and has a disconnect there. if the fuse is not bad and the wire looks good, check the ground on the passenger door "open switch" (the one that is supposed to turn on the dome light. that is where the whole system is grounded for the int. lights lights
I dont think I have ever come across your exact problem.
I checked for TSB's regarding your problem, and there were
I would recommend removing the instrument panel (I.P), and
checking the connections.
I would also check the connections at the ignition switch.
It is possible that one of the ignition wires is not being fed when this problem occurs. This could be caused by
a poor/broken connection, Worn ignition switch, or a remote car starter poorly installed or malfunctioning.
The next time this happens, grab a test light and remove panels for
access to the wiring harness to the ignition switch. STAY AWAY FROM THE
HARNESS FOR THE CLOCKSPRING AND AIRBAG. With the ignition on (in run)
check for power at the dark blue wire, black&white wire, and the
If one does not have power, then test it at the switch. If still no
power, then replace the switch. If the wire has no power, but has
power at the switch then repair the wire.