First, let me apologize for the long email. let me tell you what happened. last week, i drove 20 miles to meet 2 friends for lunch. it's hot here in manila, so the ac was on and so was the cd player. no untoward incident happened on my way. it was a simple pick up my friends, park the car, go to the resto, have lunch and lots of laughs.
after lunch the car started perfectly. i take my friends back to their offices (ac and cd player on) and it happens. about half a mile from my last drop off, i decide to have a smoke. lo and behold only the driver side window comes down the other 3 do not.(btw, the car is a 91 sentra, 4 dr, ga16de, manual tranny).
to me, this indicated a weak battery and the alternator not charging it properly. long story short, i pass this electrical/battey shop and they tell me the alternator is shot. i asked them, if the alternator is busted, WHY DIDN'T THE IDIOT LIGHT COME ON? i ran through a couple of alternators. the first one overcharged the batt and the second one didn't charge it. so i know for a fact that overcharging and undercharging lights up the batt idiot light.
but in this case, the battery goes dead and the idiot never indicates an undercharging problem. so i just ask him to charge the batt as i have another engagement. true enough, i go my meeting, and the battery just had enough power to get me home that night.
what could be wrong? i read a post in one forum, that given this, the problem is not the alternator.
i did the tests i found in search and here's addtional info.
1. i measured the altenator voltage by placing the red probe of my voltmeter to the alternator's ''batt'' post and the black probe of the voltmeter to the alt's ground post. i got 12.1volts while the engine was running.
2. i tested continuity of the wire form the alt's batt post to the + battery connector. and this checks out ok.
3. after confirming continuity, i put back the battery connector to its place BUT left the alternator battery wire unconnected and started the car.
the car started fine but noticed 2 thingsw.
a.) when i turned on the ignition but not started the car yet, the batt idiot light did not come on.
b.) when the engine ran, the batt idiot light stayed off.
do these tests help? i hope you can assist me. i would like to know what other tests i can do the determine what's wrong. and if it's the alternator, what's busted. i still have the alty taht overcharged and the mechanic said, chances are the only the voltage regulator is fried and the rest ok.
am hoping to that the vr in my present alternator is ok and swap parts from the other alty as needed.
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I have a customer with a 2000 Nissan Xterra 3.3 liter V6 with 180k miles. He stated that while driving on the highway the vehicle is fine. Once he exits the highway and drove on surface streets the engine stumbles, sputters and shuts down when he stops. The fuel pump is located under the right side rear seat. I removed the inspection cover to view the electrical connections. No problem there. I drove the vehicle for approx 20 minutes and it hesitated a little but not enough for me to come to a good conclusion. I needed the engine to heat up some more so I drove to Panda Express for lunch. I got my lunch to go, return to the vehicle and started the engine to eat while the engine idled. After my lunch was over I drove back to my customer's house. On the way God bless me with what I was searching for...the engine started to sputter. To shorten this story I replaced the distributor with a brand new assembly from AutoZone($233.65). Once I removed the factory distributor I spun it by hand and that's when I could feel that bearings were rough & worn.
Problem solved and my customer is happy.
Sounds like the same problem I have been having with my 2002 Sedona for the past 6 or 8 months. It would run OK for several days, weeks, or months, then just quit. If I let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, it would restart and run fine for at least the rest of that day. About 2 weeks ago, I was fortunate that it happened when someone was with me, so I was able to determine that it was not getting any spark. Since then the problem has gotten worse and more frequent - it was happening almost every day and would take over 1/2 an hour before it would start again. This morning was the last straw. I drove for about 4 miles and it quit. Took 1 hour and 10 minutes before it would restart. Drove another 2 miles and did it again. This time it took 1 hour 35 minutes before restart. After 1 more mile, it quit again. Took 2 hours, this time. Made it another mile and BAM! - did it again. My bro towed me home. I determined that it is most likely NOT the crankshaft position sensor, because 99% of the time they either work, or they don't. Very rarely does it cause in intermittant problem. The most likely suspect is the engine computer. That was always a likely culpret when I worked on GM cars. Today I installed a $50 junk yard engine control computer. I am crossing my fingers! I will know on Thursday, as I have a 50 mile trip to make. I will post again on Thursday, to let you all know.
Running so few miles has accelerated the aging of the battery - the battery never had a chance to fully recharge in such small trips - so now you have to replace it a year sooner than usual.
Just replace it.
I would disconnect the battery for three minutes and reconnect it. That should remove the code. You will have drive the car up to about 75 miles to see if the code does or does not show up again. It may have been reading the amount of air in the system from removal of the injector.
Try cleaning the fuel pump filter. Under the seat behind the driver lift the carpet and you will find a round cover with six screws remove the cover. The fuel pump is directly below unscrew the retaining round plate and remove the pump. At the base of the pump is a small filter if it is covered in black muck that's your problem. clean and replace. job takes about 10 mins good luck. please let me know how you got on!