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No power to fuel injectors, ignition fuse, or fuel pump
MR2 will turn over but not start. No power to fuel injectors, ignition fuse, the mystery relay behind the glove box, or fuel pump. There is power to the EFI relay and fuse. All three fuse boxes check out(spare compartment, under dash, and engine compartment) except power to the ignition fuse. New distributor, external fuel pump, ignition control module, cap & rotor, head, spark plugs & wires. The car had been sitting since early 2010. I installed everything listed, removed the fuel pump from the tank and cleaned the lines on the tank and replaced the rest, gave it an oil change and new air filter. Fired up instantly, turned it off, cleaned up the tools, fired up again, had to run inside, turned on and drove it around the block and came back to the house, parked it out of the carport, cleaned up the fluids and trash. Started again and pulled under the carport. Then today i printed my emissions pass and went to start it... just turns over.
Disconnect the connector for the fue injector on the left side front of the intake plenemn there are two wires on red one blue these are your fue injector wires, check for power on one wire with the key ON One has power with the key ON, and then take the test light connect one end on one of the wires coming out of the harness NOT the plenem and the other end of the testlight to the other wire in the same connector don't let them touch togother! sue a paperclip or cotterpin to let you connect the clip of the testlight to the connector.crank and you should see the light blink( I just want to narrow down the possibilities) If you see the light blink Good. Then make sure the PINK wire wire going going in the module has 12V KEY ON and also check the two wires inside the distributor that come from the pick-up unit make sure they are not broke the distributor pick-up unit failes commonly, its easier and less expensive to just get a used distributor that works and be done with it.
If this information is helpful please leave me a good rating and keep in touch let meknow how things go I'll be here to help all I can, www.aceautomotive1.com here you will find and entry in the BLOG or FAQ that is just like your problem and how I fixed it.
The BLOWER MODULE is located on the A/C EVAPORATOR housing located UNDER THE HOOD passenger side firewall. Has 2 electrical connectors. Mounted with 4 screw bolts.Hope this helps
An internally shorted relay can blow a fuse. Remove the relay and try another fuse. If it blows again, then you have a short to ground in the fuel pump wire. You'll have to trace out both ends of the relay, the supply to the relay, and the feed to the pump to find the short. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can use the continuity function to measure resistance between the wire and ground. You should not get continuity between the fuel pump wires and ground if the fuel pump is not plugged in.
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The pump is in the fuel tank. To test short pin 1+2 on the air flow meter connector. Turn the ignition key to run position (2 click) and listen for the whir or hum of the pump.
This should be in the owner's manual. I found the below on autozone.com, their repair help location:
An inertia switch is used as a safety device in the fuel system. The inertia switch is located in the cab, generally under the dashboard on the right side. It is designed to open the fuel pump power circuit in the event of a collision. The switch is reset by pushing each of 2 buttons on the switch simultaneously (some models use switches with only one reset button). The inertia switch should not be reset until the fuel system has been inspected for damage or leaks.
When the ignition switch is ON , it turns the EEC power relay ON . The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump(s) is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flows through the fuel pump relay and inertia switch to the fuel pump(s). The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM.
When the ignition switch is turned ON , the fuel pump(s) will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position the PCM will shut the fuel pump(s) OFF after 1 second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump(s) operate the fuel pump(s) when the ignition switch is turn to START position to provide fuel while cranking.
After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump(s) unless the engine stops, drops below 120 rpm or the inertia switch is tripped.
Sounds like it could be a bad ignition switch-the electrical part, not the lock cylinder. When key is in the on position (run), those fuses should be powered. Are all the maxi-fuses good? They distribute power throughout the car's electrical circuits-like the fuse panel, for instance, so check the maxi-fuses. If good, probably the ignition switch is bad.
The ASD is what powers the fuel pump relay you need to check the engine fuse box junction for open fuse especially the fuel pump fuse and the ignition fuse. Get the ASD power corrected and the fuel pump injectors coil and reference will be back in action,check the fuse especially fuse No.23
I would check to see if you are getting any gas to the test port on the fuel rail. Sounds like the fuel pump fuse and/or relay, or the pump itself is bad. You can check the fuel pump connector under the car for power when the key is turned on. If there is power, the fuse and relay are ok. Check the fuel filter also. Check for power to the injectors.
#1. Scan for trouble codes. If any, record them and let us know which ones they are.
#2. Connect a fuel gauge to the fuel delivery line at the engine... try to start the engine while monitoring fuel pressure... if there is fuel pressure (approx 35 to 50 lbs), the problem is elsewhere.
If no fuel pressure, check fuel pump relay, fuse, wiring to fuel pump connector (power & ground - use 12volt test light). If power & ground are present, problem is the pump (fuel filter is attached to the fuel pump inside the tank).
#3. Check injectors for injector pulse, check ignition coils for spark to spark plugs.
In a quiet environment sit in the car and turn the key on you should hear a quiet motor noise coming from the gas tank, if you have doubts have an assistant turn the key on while you bend down and listen near the gas tank you should hear the fuel pump turn on then stop shortly after the key is turned, don't try starting vehicle, if you do not hear this sound the pump in the tank has failed or the fuse blew, locate and check the fuse if it blew chances are the pump is in fact seized. It is not an easy job the fuel tank must be remove to access and replace the pump. There is a chance that the fuel pump relay is bad locate and check fuse and relay first before dropping the tank.
check the fuel pump relays are operating fine this happened in my mates wrx and it was those relays would go first thing but once going relays seem to get a tad warm and then fail leave it 4 a day and it starts up again hope this helps
Are you sure its no spark? It could also be a bad fuel pump... have you done a check for spark? If you pull one of the plugs out and lay it on the engine block and turn the car over a few times you don't see spark, or it just doesn't fire when it cranks?
I suggest you perform this test. If you see spark I can almost guarnatee that its a fuel pump issue.
Try this test if the one above passes. Pull off the intake hose (big thick hose attached to the throttle body) and spray in some starting fluid. If it cranks and tries to run but then dies, that suggests that there is no fuel getting to the motor which is usually a bad fuel pump as relays and fuses usually don't burn out on their own. These two tests should narrow it down pretty significantly. Hope this helps! Good Luck!
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