Burred head bolt

NOTE: Ford does not provide camshaft gear timing marks, or information to perform timing belt service without the special tools shown in this procedure.

REMOVAL
1. Drain engine coolant from radiator and cylinder block by removing the drain plugs.
2. Remove the intake manifold.
3. Remove exhaust manifold.
4. Remove camshafts.
5. Remove valve tappets from cylinder head, then support front of engine with wood block between crankshaft pulley and front subframe.
6. Remove righthand engine lifting eye bolt, then righthand engine lifting eye.
7. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket and cylinder head support bracket.
8. Remove camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley and front cover from front of cylinder head.
9. Remove water thermostat housing from cylinder head as follows:
a. Raise and support vehicle.
b. Disconnect crankcase ventilation tube from positive crankcase ventilation valve.
c. Disconnect upper radiator hose and radiator overflow hose from water hose connection.
d. Remove water outlet connection bolts and water hose connection from water thermostat housing.
e. Remove water thermostat and seal from water thermostat, then seal from water thermostat housing. Inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary.
10. Remove ignition coil bracket from cylinder head as follows:
a. Disconnect fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring from ignition coil, then ignition wires by squeezing locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.
b. Remove ignition coil bolts or screws, then coil.
c. Remove ignition coil bracket.

Fig. 11 Cylinder head bolt removal sequence


11. Remove spark plugs from cylinder head, then cylinder head bolts in sequence. Discard cylinder head bolts.
12. Remove cylinder head and head gasket from cylinder block.
13. If necessary, remove lefthand engine lifting eye from cylinder head.
14. Inspect cylinder head and cylinder block, then replace components as required.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse procedure to install, noting following:
a. Clean cylinder head intake manifold, valve cover and cylinder head gasket surfaces. Ensure flatness of cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces meets specifications.

Fig. 12 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence



b. Torque new cylinder head bolts in sequence, first to 15-22 ft lb, then to 30-37 ft lb. Finally tighten all bolts an additional 90-120° in the same sequence.

Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed

• Eye protection
• Gloves
• Oil and coolant drain
• Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
  Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
  Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
  Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

  Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

  Materials Needed
  
  • Head bolt socket (if needed)
  • Numbered cardboard
  • Rubber hammer
  • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
    The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
    Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
    Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
    Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
    Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
    The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
    Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
    
    • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

    Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

    Material Needed
    
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
      This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
      Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
      Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
      Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
      Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
      Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
      
      • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
      Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Hi there:



Fig. Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - Altima & Maxima 3.5L engine

Install the cylinder head bolts and torque in sequence as follows:

1. Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm).
   
2. Step 2: Completely loosen all bolts.
   
3. Step 3: 26-32 ft. lbs. (34-44 Nm).
   
4. Step 4: plus 90-95 degrees clockwise.
   
5. Step 5: plus 90-95 degrees clockwise.

Fig. Right cylinder head bolt torque sequence- Altima & Maxima 3.5L engine




Fig. Left cylinder head bolt torque sequence- Altima & Maxima 3.5L engine

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Six IN LINE - 6L

Fig.: Cylinder head torque sequence - 6 -cylinder engine

Cylinder head torquing should proceed in three steps and in the prescribed order. Tighten them first to 50-55 ft. lbs. (65-71 Nm), then give them a second tightening to 60-65 ft. lbs. (78-84 Nm). The final step is to 70-75 ft. lbs. (91-97 Nm), at which they should remain undisturbed.


Six IN V - 6V



Fig.: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - 6 -cylinder engine

Tighten the head, according to the illustrated sequence in three progressive steps. Tighten the bolts to 50-55 ft. lbs. (68-74 Nm), then 60-65 ft. lbs. (81-88 Nm) and finally to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).


Hope this helps (remember to rate and commene this answer).

I'd say moderately difficult: here are the instructions for replacing the head on a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 4.0 L engine:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4.0L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) hoses
   • Air cleaner assembly
   • Accelerator cable
   • Cruise control cable, if equipped
   • Transmission cable, if equipped
   • Control cable bracket
   • Valve cover
   NOTE: Keep valvetrain components in order for reassembly.
   • Rocker arms
   • Pushrods
   • Accessory drive belt
   • A/C compressor and bracket, if equipped
   • Power steering pump and bracket, if equipped
   • Fuel line
   • Combination manifold
   • Thermostat housing coolant hoses
   • Spark plugs
   • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector
   • Cylinder head
   To install: WARNING
   Cylinder head bolts may only be reused one time. If reusing a cylinder head bolt, place a paint mark on the bolt after installation. If a cylinder head bolt has a paint mark, discard it and use a new bolt. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
   
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Coat the threads of bolt No. 11 with Loctite® F 592 sealant. CAUTION
   During the final tightening sequence, bolt No. 11 will be tightened to a lower torque value than the rest of the bolts. Do not overtighten bolt No. 11.
   
5. Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
   1. Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
   2. Step 2: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
   3. Step 3: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
   4. Step 4: Bolts 1–10 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
   5. Step 5: Bolt 11 to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm)
   6. Step 6: Bolts 12–14 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
   7. Step 7: Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6
6. Install or connect the following:
   • ECT sensor connector
   • Spark plugs
   • Thermostat housing coolant hoses
   • Combination manifold
   • Fuel line
   • Power steering pump and bracket, if equipped
   • A/C compressor and bracket, if equipped
   • Accessory drive belt
   • Pushrods and rocker arms in their original positions
   • Valve cover
   • Control cable bracket
   • Transmission cable, if equipped
   • Cruise control cable, if equipped
   • Accelerator cable
   • Air cleaner assembly
   • CCV hoses
   • Negative battery cable
7. Fill the cooling system.
8. Start the engine and check for leaks.

10 MM HEX HEAD SOCKET BIT AND A BREAKER BAR.YOU NEED TO KNOW THE CYLINDER HEAD LOOSE SEQUENCE TO KEEP FROM HAVING CRACKED OR WARP HEAD.YOU NEED HAYNES OR CHILTON MANUAL.BECAUSE SOME EARLY 90S TOYOTA CARS YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN HEAD BOLTS IN SEQUENCE.

Hi
A cylinder head removal tool is provided for removing the cylinder head from the engine block of an engine.The tool comprises an elongated bar made of tool steel with means for bolting the bar to the cylinder head and for mounting pusher bolts which can be tightened down onto exposed threaded ends of frozen studs holding the cylinder head. As the bolts are tightened down onto the studs the cylinder head is gradually lifted upward free from the studs.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

The spark plugs are right in the top of the head, through the valve cover.. There are 4 of them.. 2 are under ignition coils, and the other 2 are hooked to the coils with plug wires.

Open the hood to the Sportage. Do not perform this repair on a hot engine. If it is hot, allow it to cool down before going any further.
Locate and remove the air intake hose assembly to get it out of the way. Use the appropriate screwdrivers to loosen any clamps.
Locate and remove the accelerator throttle cable bracket using the ratchet and socket or a hand wrench.
Remove the coil cover from the cylinder head cover using the ratchet and socket. There are six bolts.
Remove the cylinder head cover. There are four bolts and two coils. Twist the boot on the high tension leads attached to each spark plug and pull them off. Inspect the spark plug cavity to ensure there is no debris or dirt inside. If so, blow it out or vacuum it out.
Place the spark plug socket onto the 12-inch long extension and ratchet and insert it onto the spark plug. Remove the spark plugs. The Gap to the new plugs should be between .039 to .043 inches
Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound lubricant to the threads of the new spark plug(s). Install the spark plug into the cylinder using the extension and socket only. Do not use the ratchet to tighten until you're sure the spark plug has threaded into the bore correctly. Cross threading a spark plug can damage the cylinder head.
Tighten the plug to 13 to 15 foot pounds using the spark plug socket, the extension and the adjustable torque wrench. Reconnect the tension leads, the coils and four bolts to the cylinder head cover, the coil cover and six bolts, the accelerator throttle cable bracket, the air intake hose.
Test start the Sportage to ensure it's running properly and have a great day.

If you have one of the 4 cylinder models, You really just have to remove the air intake assembly to get at the alternator from the top and remove the wires going to it, then you have to drain the oil and remove the oil filter to get at the drivebelt from the side (through the wheel well) and loosen it to the point you can get the alternator out.

Under the coil pack is the maxifuse with red coverings on either end and a black plasctic center. A bad maxifuse will have the same symptoms as a bad alternator...but cheaper to fix! Just ohm it with a volt meter.

To remove an alternator from a 1996 Ford Contour 6 cylinder, you have to remove the pass. side tire and splash-shield. Remove the neg. cable from the battery and the belt with a 3/8ths drive ratchet.

At this point take heart, you will have to reach behind the alternator and remove the lower retaining mount bolt with a 13mm socket.

You can help it at first by twisting the end of the bolt with your thumb and index finger...just twist as you turning the ratchet. It would prove advantegeous to have a 3/8ths ratchet with swivel head here. Although, you will only be able to turn the ratchet one "click" at a time.

Yes, there is absolutely no room for reaching your entire hand back there. After nearly an hour working the first bolt out, you will have to start the upper second bolt. This is where it gets really time consuming. But, do not give up. You are doing it for free while shops DO WANT 500.00 for the job!

Now, use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 13mm socket to crack it free by reaching from the firewall (insulation is scrtchy on the hand) and attaching the ratchet/socket to the bolt head and inserting a bar from the bottom to push the end of the ratchet up.
That will crack it free. Then, swith sockets to a 1/2" socket....this size will keep the socket on the head a little more snuggly while you use your finger tips to ratchet.

Ford Engineers thought it would be hilarious to attach a 90 degree bracket with a 10mm bolt that fixes to the alternator casing and frame. Just remove the 10mm bolt that goes into the alternator from the bottom of the car.

Now the easy part. There is a sway bar drop link there in the way. You will need a 17mm open-end wrench and socket. Affix the wrench to the back side of the TOP of the link and lossen the bolt. After the link is outta the way, you can grab a crow bar or large flat head screwdriver and pry the alternator out of its bracket.

Once its down, you can turn it almost all the way around and take off the electrical connections. Here you will find 3 wire connections.

Now that the alternator is free to come out, you will have many variations of ways in which to extract it from that small space. Its just a matter of trial and error. I found it relaxing to remove it from the left hand side of the strut instead of forward the strut. Dont worry it'll come out.

As far as putting it back in....ugh. Just reverse the removal. Good luck and entire REMOVAL process will take around 3-4.5 hours.

if its a four cylinder(lets hope)the specs are 80-90ft.lbs torque.if its a six cylinder it is 14ft.lbs torqueat 90 degree intervals then repeat until correct torque has been reached.bad news is you can not use the same bolts on the six cylinder engine.have to be new to keep from breaking them