The connection where the gas line goes into the manifold(front) is leaking, snugged tight, still leaks, what do i do?

If leaking at the caliper side, make sure the 2 copper gaskets are installed. One on each side of the bolt that goes through the brake hose. If leaking on the fitting side, make sure the connection is tight and there are no burrs on the flare of the line causing it to not seat properly

1. remove cap then lower radiator hose from rad and catch in bucket/pan.THIS IS DEADLY TO ANIMALS AND WILL KILL THEM AND IT TASTES GOOD TO THEM. BE CAREFUL.
2. remove hose from housing and old housing
3. clean manifold mating surface and bolts
4. install gasket w/ sealer dab of sealer on each bolt threads
5. tighten one the other back and forth till snug
6. then tighten gently till tight.
7. fill anti freeze
8. check for leaks.

Hope this helps Mike

Possibly a fuel leak. Of a leak in the inlet manifold. Get it checked to be safe.

Check and replace fuel hose from the pump line to the manifold and ensure that it is tight . Check return line from the regulator is tight. Check that the injectors are all tight and the seals are not leaking.

The code po456 is leak in the evaporative emissions system.
First thing to check is for a poorly installed fuel fill cap

or try the following

1. Loosten the worm clamps that connect the air box hose to the intake.
2. Remove the bolt holding the air box to the radiator support.
3. Remove the small hose that comes off the front of the air box and goes from the air box to under the intake, I beleive this is the AIR tube.
4. Remove the AIT sensor from the intake hose.
5. Pull up on the air box.

Once removed set the air box a side. Locate the two lines that are wrapped in flex loom and tied to each other that go under the air box. They go from the solenoid that is mounted right next to the horn, behind the right headlight, to the rear of the vehicle. Locate a small 2" rubber hose that connects the front line to the rear line under the air box. Most likely this small hose that connects the two lines has a crack in it because it has been stressed from being stretched over a metal tube. If you replace this, it should fix your 'small leak'.

Reset the code by disconnecting the ground to the battery for a few minutes.

Hope this helps
Steve

Exhaust Manifold - Removal & Installation3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Heat shields Lower splash shields Exhaust front pipes Secondary air tubes Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube Exhaust manifold
   

To install:



Fig. Right exhaust manifold torque sequence-3.0L engine



Fig. Left exhaust manifold torque sequence-3.0L engine

1. Install the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the fasteners in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
   2. Step 2: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
      
2. Install or connect the following:
   Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube Secondary air tubes Exhaust front pipes Lower splash shields Heat shields Negative battery cable
3. Start the engine and check for leaks.

continue...

Bonneville, LeSabre, Park Avenue 2000-2005 Intake Manifold - Removal & Installation

3.8L Engine
VIN 1 Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Supercharger Thermostat housing Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube at the intake manifold Engine Control Temperature (ECT) sensor Intake manifold

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Intake manifold with new gaskets. Torque the bolts, working from the center out, to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). ECT sensor connector EGR tube to the intake manifold Thermostat housing Supercharger Negative battery cable
2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

VIN K Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Fuel injector sight shield Air inlet duct Spark plug wires from the right side Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Vacuum lines from the intake manifold Fuel lines Fuel injector electrical connectors Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel rail from the intake manifold Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) heat shield Throttle cable bracket from the cylinder head mounting bracket and the throttle body cables Throttle body support bracket Upper intake plenum and gasket Thermostat housing Electrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Drive belt tensioner assembly EGR valve outlet pipe Lower intake manifold
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the intake manifold and related components-3.8L (VIN K) engine
   

To install:



Fig. Upper intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine



Fig. Lower intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine

1. Install or connect the following:
   Intake manifold using new manifold gaskets. Torque the bolts in sequence to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); then, re-torque to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). EGR valve outlet pipe Drive belt tensioner assembly. Torque the tensioner bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Electrical connector to the ECT sensor Thermostat housing Upper intake plenum. Torque the intake plenum bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Throttle body support bracket Throttle cable bracket to the cylinder head mounting bracket and the cables to the throttle body lever EGR heat shield Fuel rail. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Fuel lines Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel injector electrical connectors Vacuum lines to the intake manifold MAP sensor Spark plug wires Fuel injector sight shield and air inlet duct Negative battery cable
2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

Hope this help (remember rated this).

Small leak in Evaporative emission system. Could be as simple as a bad seal at gas cap, or maybe wasn't put back on tight,especially if you noticed it shortly after getting gas. Otherwise check all vacuum lines for snug connections, and examine for cracks as well.

it could but- check passenger side front where heater core line go into manifold right behind alternator the hose line is connected by a press clip into an alloy fitting this fitting gets eaten away by anti freeze and hose angle pulls back on fitting the part is $18 at dealer and is screwed into manifold use caution if ur r going to replace at very edge of aluminum manifold---and check ur water pump bolts the 2 longer ones should have a lock sealant on them they bolt in thru a water jacket

If it is running fine, the busted bolt isn't the source of the gasoline smell. The intake manifold has vacuum, so the smell wouldn't be getting out, air would be going in, and a vacuum leak would give you poor idling. The exhaust manifold wouldn't have much raw gasoline smell. But it would have loud noise if the broken bolt were causing an exhaust leak.

Check that the vapor recovery line is not broken or disconnected. The hose connectors get cracked. If that were broken, it would cause a gasoline smell after the car has been sitting, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, heat driving gasoline vapor out of the tank. It is supposed to condense in the vapor canister, but some escapes if the line is broken. If it is broken, driving would **** out the gasoline from the line and the wind would dissipate the smell.

Or it could be a leaking injector. With the injector cover off, engine idling and cool, you can visually look for raw gas around the injectors and injector rail connections.

Hope this helps.