I have a 1990 jeep cherkee larado 4.0 liter engine
I replaced the rotor, distriborter cap, spark plug and wire set, vacume line's ,battery, battery cable's, crank shaft sensor fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel,pump ,and there is no fuel coming out of the injector rail no gas going to the injectors, will not start how can i fix this what should i check next is there a fuse for the fuel pump,and how can i tell wich relay is for the fuel pump there are four relays and if it is the relay which one is it there are four of them on the passenger side above the wheel well i realy need help this is the only transportation my family has and i'm disabled i need to be able to go to my doctor apointments and my wife needs to get to work
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Re: i have a 1990 jeep cherkee larado 4.0 liter engine
Jeeps are famous for the fuel pumps in the tank going out. More than likely the fuel pump has quit on you. I don't have a book to tell you which relay would go the to fuel pump. It should be marked in the junction box for easy identification.
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First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?
You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor. Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.
Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are: air filter motor oil motor oil filter breather filter fuel filter(s) fuel strainer PCV valve EGR valve spark plugs spark plug wires ECM or distributor cap & rotor cabin air filter transmission oil filter transmission oil engine coolant check all vacuum hoses and lines
Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:
Priority Action Part Type -- Cause 1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.
Hi, Ok you have confirmed that it's not a fuel problem. You need to check for spark. Pull the coil wire off of the coil(secondary lead-looks like a spark plug wire) Have some one crank it over and listen for a popping sound. IF yes, spark is at the coil, that means all ignition sensors are working. Next check for spark at ends of wires after cap. IF no replace cap and rotor. IF yes remove a couple spark plugs and check for fouling(wet, fuel etc...) IF yes replace or clean plugs and retest for starting. IF no spark is present at coil you need to scan computer and watch for rpm signal. IF no rpm signal, replace crankshaft sensor with OEM delco part. BIGGEST problem with these engines is Cap and Rotor burn out.
you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle