Gear missing tooth in front axel

Call Toyota parts and ask if this is a suitable replacement.

Are you trying to tell us that when you put it in gear.. the axel spins and moves up and down because of a broken CV JOINT? In this case the axels are sold rebuilt for really low price. Rockauto.com. They are not real easy to change.. look under the car while someone puts it in gear.. WITH THE E BRAKE ON AND WHEELS BLOCKED.. AND SEE WHAT THE AXE; IS DOING. Then you can make an assessment of what to replace.

Sounds like you broke an axle off. May have broken a spider gear inside the front differential. Hopefully you weren't using this in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement, and making a sharp turn, which could easily snap an axle or break a spider gear or break teeth off of the spider gear inside of the front axle case. Good luck.

1.9L the camshaft gear has an arrow bumped up from it's center. This arrow lines up with a dot on the cylander head. A mirror placed in front of the camshaft gear may help see the arrow and dot. The crankshaft mark is a bump up on the washer between the hamonic balancer and the timming belt gear. This bump is lined up with the middle slot of the indicator located right above the crankshaft and between the timingbelt. this mark is tough to see with the harmonic balacer still installed but can be seen with a little mirror. Another way to find TDC for the crank is on the harmonic balacer there is a sensor ring it looks like a gear with a tooth missing. T he sensor ring should be 9 teeth to the left from the space from missing tooth. If one way doesn't line up and the other way does then you need a harmonic balancer.

Google the exact steps...you'll be amazed what you find.

there is a transmission module,located behind the kick panel passenger side, i got one on ebay for 30 bucks

The flywheel is worn in that specific area. Engines tend to stop in the same one or two positions, and it is those teeth that get cachunked every time you turn the key. This is ok if the bendix does a good job of threading the gear into the flywheel teeth, but the problem is that now that the teeth are half worn away, the starter attempts to mount its gear to the teeth, but before the gear is fully seated, the contacts in the motor make, the motor starts to turn, and the not-yet-seated gear bounces off of the flywheel teeth. This is what causes the teeth-grinding sound (your teeth grinding in your mouth too!) when you turn the key. . There are two solutions: The first is to, of course, replace the ring gear. . The second is hard to explain, but a good starter rebuild center (if there is such an accessible animal around anymore) will know what I'm talking about: The starter gear must have the lagging edge of each tooth ground so that each tooth will look like a chisel. The "pushing" side of each tooth must be straight and come to the point (and not be beveled). The "non-pushing" lagging side of each starter tooth should have the bevel ground in on that side. This grinding is done easily by a small angle grinder or a Dremel Tool with a cutoff wheel. . This does one thing: It assures that the gear will "spin in" without bouncing. If ground correctly (it's not hard to do), you will get successful starts every time. This is a common fix for Toyota 4-cyl with this horrible all-too-common problem. Good luck.

Hate to tell you this, but if you can't get the gears out, you will not be able to replace them correctly
(except perhaps the spider gears) Setting up a differential gear set is an exact science involving careful measuring with dial indicators and torque settings. If you don't do this perfectly, whatever you replace will quickly self-destruct. This applies to bearing replacement as well.
You will be better served by replacing the diff "drum to drum" with a unit form a scrapyard. There your only concern will be exactly matching the tooth count on the ring and pinion gears. That's my best advice.
To get your gears out, remove both axles by removing spider gear cross shaft and the "c" clips that retain the axles, then unbolt the two carrier bearing saddles. The center unit should easily pry out of the housing.

80w-90 or 85w-140

take the wheel off , unbolt caliper and sling it out of the way with a bungi cord, take off the rotor, then you have too take the pumpkin cover off the axel diff in the front (drain fluid first) easy way to do that take out bottom and side bolts out then leave top 1 or 2 in but finger loose. pry cover off with a sturdy scrapper from side allowing fluid to leak out from bottom of cover. when fluid is done comeing out then take off cover. to take the axel out to replace the seal you have to push the axel inwards to remove the C- CLIP on the end of the axel shaft that slides into the inside of the pinion gear (use a extending magnet) keeps gear oil on your hands and from dropping it into the pumpkin housing. then all you have to do is slide the axel shaft out. then replace the seal .