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Hi take a six point socket that is smaller than the bolt and a extension and drive the socket on the bolt becarefull not to break the bolt off in the head stripping the head of the bolt sound to me like the bolt is frozen so becareful spray it with w-d 40 before you drive the socket on
. Good luck
you need use lots of pentrating oil let it soak in good you need a 6 point universal socket with extension you need high impact air ratchet that give enough torque to remove bolts in hard tight spots.for round off bolt head go to sears or go on line you can buy sockets remove round off boat heads.any time remove bigger bolts size 14M ON UP USE 6 POINT SOCKET GET STRONGER GRIP.12 POINT SOCKETS NOT STRONG BECAUSE SMALL GRIP TEETH WILL BREAK OFF UNDER MORE TORQUE AND STRESS..
Chipping away at the bolt faces with a screw driver might help. Use '6 face' impact driver sockets only, the 12 corner sockets will round the bolt corners off. Select an open spanner of the correct size and hammer it mildly from the side onto the bolt head. The spanner will chisel the rust off. Spray with WD40 as this helps release the rust. Try each third of the bolt in turn and wire brush it right down to the base. chisel everything off with a small screw driver and light taps with a hammer. Strike the bolt head full on hard with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. Next see if an impact socket next down a size can be hammered on - corrosion can reduce bolt head dimensions; I've experienced many 15mm bolt reduces to a perfect 14mm fit. Use a breaker bar in the socket and make sure the socket is jammed on deeply as it can be. Try tightening the bolt just a degree before trying to release it. If it still resists remove the socket and apply heat to the bolt head with a concentrated blow torch or acetylene flame - the bolt lengthens through thermal expansion and breaks much of the corrosion on the threads. Furthermore, very hot metal has much lower friction than cold metal.
If you strip the head you will need to use a grinder to create new parallel faces to put a spanner or self gripping wrench on. Many times the heat generated by this grinding process is enough to allow the spanner to remove the modified bolt easily. If still no joy grind a flat top to the bolt, drill it and fit a bolt extractor into the drill hole. Never accept defeat from a seized bolt, persistence pays off.
The worst job I ever did of this type was to try and bleed fluid from rusty brake calipers. The bleed nipple just tore off. I drilled what I could and inserted a bolt extractor and the bolt extractor sheared right off. Hardened steel drills just glanced off the imbedded hardened extractor. I used a Dremel with a chain saw sharpening grinding tool and ground out the extractor's tip. Then, like a dentist doing a filling on tooth, I played the grinding tip around in concentric circles until I could see the rusty outline of the bolt threads of the bleed screw in the caliper. I picked the coil like remnants of the bleed screw from the wall of the caliper and bit by bit cleared the whole thing.
" Failure is not an option" go to it!
YOU REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD COVER.YOU REMOVE SPARK PLUGS FROM TOP OF THE ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD.FIRST YOU REMOVE THE IGNITION COILS AND HIGH TENSION LEADS THEN REMOVE SPARK PLUGS.YOU NEED SPARK PLUGS SOCKET THE LONGER SOCKET WILL BE GOOD YOU NEED LONGER EXTENSION, YOU NEED SPARK PLUGS GAP GAUGE AND A 3/8 RATCHET WRENCH. YOU NEED A TORQUE WRENCH ITS NOT MANDATORT BUT JUST DONT OVER TIGHTEN SPARK PLUGS OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE ALUMINUM HEAD THREADS.
The spark plugs are right in the top of the head, through the valve cover.. There are 4 of them.. 2 are under ignition coils, and the other 2 are hooked to the coils with plug wires. Open the hood to the Sportage. Do not perform this repair on a hot engine. If it is hot, allow it to cool down before going any further. Locate and remove the air intake hose assembly to get it out of the way. Use the appropriate screwdrivers to loosen any clamps. Locate and remove the accelerator throttle cable bracket using the ratchet and socket or a hand wrench. Remove the coil cover from the cylinder head cover using the ratchet and socket. There are six bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover. There are four bolts and two coils. Twist the boot on the high tension leads attached to each spark plug and pull them off. Inspect the spark plug cavity to ensure there is no debris or dirt inside. If so, blow it out or vacuum it out. Place the spark plug socket onto the 12-inch long extension and ratchet and insert it onto the spark plug. Remove the spark plugs. The Gap to the new plugs should be between .039 to .043 inches Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound lubricant to the threads of the new spark plug(s). Install the spark plug into the cylinder using the extension and socket only. Do not use the ratchet to tighten until you're sure the spark plug has threaded into the bore correctly. Cross threading a spark plug can damage the cylinder head. Tighten the plug to 13 to 15 foot pounds using the spark plug socket, the extension and the adjustable torque wrench. Reconnect the tension leads, the coils and four bolts to the cylinder head cover, the coil cover and six bolts, the accelerator throttle cable bracket, the air intake hose. Test start the Sportage to ensure it's running properly and have a great day.
YOU NEED TO BE A CONTORTIONIST TO DO THIS, BUT I JUST COMPLETED MINE LAST WEEK. THE BOLT THAT YOU CAN'T SEE WAS ONLY ACCESSABLE, (BLINDLY) BY USING A 3" EXTENSION WITH SOCKET ON. MANAGING TO GET THIS BETWEEN THE WIRING AND TRANNY I TWISTED MY HAND BACKWARD AND (BLINDLY) SHOVED THE SOCKET AND EXTENSION ON THE BOLT HEAD, THEN ATTATCHED THE RATCHET. NOT AS EASY AS I MADE THAT SOUND
You can try this if you're brave enough.........find a socket smaller then the one you used originally to strip the head....using a hammer...pound the new socket down on the bolt head.....or you can go to yoru favorite parts store, and buy a set of EZ OUTS, or EZ OFFS....they do about the smae thing but you won't destroy the socket taking hte bolt out.