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My 92 mazda eunos 500 dohc v6 heater isnt working and my car keeps over heating really bad and the radator has been flushed and i need to know the right amount of anti frezee should be in it

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: Anti-freze leak

check and see if the water pump is leaking... if it is replace it

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 maxima no heat in vehicle

Put your hand on the heater hoses as close to the fire wall as possible find out if both hoses are hot.Do this when the vehicle is cold allow car to heat up with heater open and running.If both equaly hot then heater core at fault.If different check water supply to cold hose.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Honda Accord. Heat indicator on dash goes to

ok, if the temp is up that high when you stop, but goes back to normal when you start moving, then you have an air pocket in your cooling system. there is no way that the coolant temperature in your cooling system can heat up and cool off that fast. whats happening is an air bubble is settling right where the coolant temperature sensor is. the air is much hotter then the coolant around it, so when the air hits the sensor, it gives you a false reading of the temp. but when you are driving, the water pump spins faster then at idle, so thats probably what is pushing the air pocket away from the sensor when you are moving. I could be wrong about this, but i have had this problem before with my own car. next time it happens, try putting your car in nuetral and revving the motor while you are sitting. if that makes your temperature go back down, then you definitely have an air pocket. a lot of cars have special bleeder screws, similar to the bleeders on brake calipers, to remove air from the system. take the car back to your mechanic and see if they can bleed the cooling system. that will most likely help you out.

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: the heat symbol is appearing on my dashboard of my

Check your coolant level and all your hoses first.

Do your radiator fans come on when the engine is hot? If not, you may need to replace the fan switch.

When the engine is hot, is the upper radiator hose also hot? If not, the thermostat is probably faulty and should be replaced. This is cheap and easy to check and replace. Remove the thermostat (at the other end of the radiator hose - you're going to have a bit of a problem with coolant unless you've drained the radiator or you've got a means of holding that hose up) and chuck it into some hot water - if the thermostat doesn't open you need a new one.

It would pay to check your engine error codes in case they can save you some time. If you're driving an American model WITH a check engine light on the dash, put a paper clip between terminal 10 and GND in your diagnostic box (right side of the engine bay near the air intake - has a big DIAGNOSTIC written on it). Then hop into your car, turn the key to ON (but don't start the engine). The light should go on steady - then off for 4 seconds. After this any diagnostic codes will be displayed. Long flashes are for the first digit in a two digit code - short flashes are the second digit. There will be a 4 second pause between each code AND the codes will repeat. If you get codes, record them and post them and I'll see what I can suggest.

Hope this helps

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: mazda eunos roadster HELP

I'm assuming no-one deliberately added petrol to the cooling water. You'll probably find there's a heap of oil in there too. It sounds like you've got a cracked head or a dead head gasket. Pull the head off and check. You could also do a leak-down test or a compression test to try and tell where the problem is.

A note on the side - the car probably overheated BEFORE the oil/petrol leaked into the coolant. If you continued to try to run the car, the overheating would have got worse and worse - resulting in a crack or the gasket being destroyed.

If you're not mechanically minded, you've probably got a rather large problem on your hands and need to get someone else to look at it.

Sorry to give you bad news...

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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Sadly "there" explanation is probly correct, when you say you have some but not alot of heat on low and then almost non on high, that is due to a plugged heater core. A heater core acts as a miniature radiator inside your cab. When the fan passes the air by it it picks up the heat and blows that into the cab. While doing that it also cools down the heater core. The more are you pass by it the cooler the core gets. What you can try first before replacing it is a coolant flush. This will run a mild acid like sollution through your entire cooling system. Sometimes that alone is enough to let more hot antifreeze run into your heater core thus giving you more heat. Another option is to disconect both lines into your heater core from in the engine compartment and run a hose into one , leaving the other to drain out. Depending on how plugged it is sometimes you can "Flush" out the buildup this way as well. G'luck and keep warm!

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