Question about 1992 Toyota 4Runner

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Clutch pedal grabbing at top of pedal

When i put the clutch pedal down the car doesn't seem to move till the pedal is almost completely back at the top basically the clutch is only grabbing at the top of the pedal

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Ok, this is a pressure plate issue. i would check the throw out bearings as well. its always good to do this when it is disassembled.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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2 Answers

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Jan 13, 2016 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

88 Bronco 2 4x4 2.9L has air in the hydraulic clutch line. I have been pumping the pedal and bleeding it for hours, including cracking the bleed screw with the pedal depressed. nothing seems to work.


Try to find where the air is entering the clutch line. When you bleed the cylinder you cannot drain the reservoir completely when bleeding. If you do then you'll only pump more air into the system.

Oct 29, 2014 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

1 Answer

Car will not accelerate when gas pushed


Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).

May 22, 2013 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where the heck is the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder on my 84 AMC Eagle.


its made on clutch master cylinder under hood straight thru from clutch pedal fill it under hood take small wrench 5/16 I think get under vehicle find slave cylinder bleed valve you will need wrench a piece of vacuum hose and a cup put wrench on bleed valve then put vacuum hose on next the other end goes in cup of brake fluid to prevent air sucking back it can bubble air out but can only suck brake fluid back have helper pump clutch pedal hold pedal bleed repump rebleed till clutch gets right its harder to bleed than brakes pump fast hold pedal down pump clutch fast hold down bleed real pain in *ss good luck

May 21, 2013 | 1984 AMC American Motors Eagle

1 Answer

Clutch pedal staying down but there's plenty of fluid in resiviour


Probably bad clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder. I always replace both.

Oct 04, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The clutch pedal seems to be very flopy and is not going into gear easily


Can be broken spring on the cluch pedal in side the car, that hold the pedal all the way back for full amount of brake fluid to the slave cylender, can be checked by pulling the pedal all the way up before steping it to the floor and putting in to gear or just look up under the daschbord on the pedal. Can allso be to little brake fluid in container. To check the master cylender rubber, step on the pedal putt in gear with engine running and wait with pedal all the way to the floor, if the rubber is gone the car wil start to go after some time (1/2-1 min or less) To check the slave cylender rubber will be dune the same way and working same way but it will be leaking out and on the floor.

Jun 18, 2012 | 1999 SsangYong Korando

2 Answers

I have no pressure in the clutch and changed the master cylinder


you need to bleed master & slave cyl master dont hold much fluid must bleed similar like brks when when starts coming out of bleeder close bleeder let sit couple of minutes air travel top of master pump pedal more repeat pumping pedal air residue will work it self out

Aug 11, 2009 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

When i put into gear and press on the gas and the clutch out the engin revs but the car goes no where. I HAVE SIMMILAR PROBLEM. CLUTCH PEDAL IS VERY HARD ENGINE RUNNING, CAN SHIFT BETWEEN GEARS WITH...


WITH ENGINE ON & RUNNING and you are able to shift to any & or all Gears and with this theres,
No Clutch Engagement Upon Releasing Clutch
With Info Provided seems that you have 1 or all 3
of the Fallowing and they all Should be Replaced as A Set even if on lt 1 of them has Failed
  1. Clutch Pressure Plate has Failed
  2. Clutch Disc Is Worn Down
  3. Clutch Release Bearing Has Failed
All Require Removal Of Transmission this is the reasoning for Replacing all as SET with the Labor cost if your replace only 1 Item, and 3 Months later another of the 3 components Fail, you have the same Labor cost to PAY.

This Solution is Answering the SOLE Question ask, Barring No other Problems have or did Happen such as Noises Ran out Of Trans Lube. if it is the Clutch that has Failed and you are unable to Perform the Repair yyourself, DO SHOP AROUND get 5 or more Estimates as the Fee Will Vary Sometimes very wide gaps in fee's
and also Try and Purchase the Parts yourself Due to the Tremendous Markup of parts at Shops

I Hope I have Answered you Question to your satisfaction and if you have any more questions Feel free to Ask Me

Jan 13, 2009 | 1992 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

1989 honda prelude s clutch problem, I can put the clutch pedal down, feels like its working ok, slave cylinder moves the clutch fork the normal distance, yet the clutch never disengages, i changed all the...


prolly a hydraulic problem master os slave cylinder leak ck your fluid takes dot 3 brake fluid , also you can put in gear hold the pedal down usually if the fiber substance is gone from the clutch disk the car will not move while cranking if the car moved then its a hydraulic problem , note to self try this with nothing in front of the car it might start up in gear if that happens you will have to immediately turn the engine key off , if the fiber is gone while running you can put trans into any gear while running without pedal inguaged , hope this helps

Dec 19, 2008 | 1989 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

Clutch suddenly not engaging until pedal completely released


Two things, first does it slip at all? If you put it in high gear and hammer it, does the engine rev up? If so, you may have a spring problem causing the clutch to not fully contact the pressure plate and will result in this problem.

Is the fluids in the master cylinder full? Do you have a leak? Bad pressure? I'd check those before going on to more difficult remedies.

Personally, by the way you're describing it, I'd say it's a spring. Especially since it's engaging and disengaging correctly. Maybe an adjuster somewhere came loose? I'm not sure with the Explorer, but I know my friends `00 F-150 had an adjuster snap causing a very similar problem but the clutch just wouldn't grab at all due to his problem.

Sep 30, 2008 | 2001 Ford Escape

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