How do i trouble shoot the glowplugs on a 1999 powerstroke
I am having problems with my 1999 ford f250 powerstroke starting. It will start fine when it is pluged in or if it is warmed up. The temp here at the lowest is about 40. it will smoke white if i try it a couple times. how can i tell if it is the glowplugs or the relay that runs them
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Re: how do i trouble shoot the glowplugs on a 1999...
You test the resistance of each glow plug, they should all be about the same resistance, if u find any that are way off from the others then chances are they are defective. Have u considered going to constant duty glow plugs? they last far longer and are cheaper in the end.
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There may be more than 1 problem. The Timer for the Glowplugs adjusts itself for the temperature of the engine and surrounding air temperature. It is suppose to keep the timer going longer for a cold engine than a warm one. But it does need to heat the Glowplugs to atomize the fuel, then compression takes over.
If the Glowplugs have not been inspected lately, it would be a good time to do it. To test, use a jumper cable with care not to damage the threads of the Glowplug. Usually clamp one end of the jumper on the base of the Glowplug and briefly touch the top where the wiring plugs in.
The Glowplug can melt, but you want to see it glow in a short period of time and uniformily with all 8. Any that stay dark are bad, subpar will take longer than you have and will not fully atomize the fuel before they lose power from the timer.
Another problem can be the gating in the Turbo. There should be clean passages for the valving to seal when the Turbo closes. If the Turbo does not close, the exhaust compression may leak into the cylinder too early before a fuel charge is atomized. Since the Glowplugs are barely on for a hot engine, it will complicate starting.
Since your engine starts great when cold, fuel line integrity and the fuel system should not be a problem. Surging at 55mph is probably due to the Turbo.
Check your Vacuum levels at a convenient tap and see if the Vacuum bleeds off quickly or holds pressure for awhile.
Please rate my info and I hope I have been helpful.
It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.
If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.
Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.
Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.
Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.
Do mean you have hard time communicating with a scanner at the OBDII connector, if so make sure you power at pin16 at diagnostic connector, also we have seen issue with glowplugs not working properly causing hard start when cold and starts fine after warm-up
You can check for glowplugs operation at initial key-of before cranking by checking for voltage at each glowplug connector with a multimeter.
I have a 2000 F250 with Powerstroke and my buddy has a 02 with same engine. Both of us have had the same problem. There are two coils (look like starter coils) on top of the engine that can be seen from the passenger side of the truck. The shorter of the two, has to do with supplying voltage to the glow plugs. When this coil gets older, it breaks down causing a higher resistance in the circuit. Which reduces the volts that the glow plugs see. In turn resembles a problem with the plugs. My buddy and I changed the coils and both trucks start like new. The part cost $80-$90. and can be changed in less than 5 minutes. Glow plugs are a lot bigger job and more expensive.
no wait to start light is a good indication that you need to check you glowplug relay and harness. Make sure you have 12V in and out of the relay. Also if you can check to see if you have good continuity to ground through your glow plugs. This is kind of hard to do on this engine, sometimes it is OK just to check the AMP draw for the leff and right group of wires. Do this by putting an AMP clamp around all 4 wires to the left and right bank. Wait about 45 sec. for the relay to click off (if it clicked on) and then record the amps right before the relay turns off. Let me know what the amp draw is and I can check it against the spec sheet. Se you amp clamp above 100 amps, it might start around 60A and end up around 36A if I remember correctly.