Question about 1995 Ford F350

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How do i trouble shoot the glowplugs on a 1999 powerstroke

I am having problems with my 1999 ford f250 powerstroke starting. It will start fine when it is pluged in or if it is warmed up. The temp here at the lowest is about 40. it will smoke white if i try it a couple times. how can i tell if it is the glowplugs or the relay that runs them

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You test the resistance of each glow plug, they should all be about the same resistance, if u find any that are way off from the others then chances are they are defective. Have u considered going to constant duty glow plugs? they last far longer and are cheaper in the end.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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My 1999 f250 superduty 7.3 starts right up when cold but hard to start after it is warm and surges while driving at 55 mph. it does have a 6 speed ******.


There may be more than 1 problem. The Timer for the Glowplugs adjusts itself for the temperature of the engine and surrounding air temperature. It is suppose to keep the timer going longer for a cold engine than a warm one. But it does need to heat the Glowplugs to atomize the fuel, then compression takes over.

If the Glowplugs have not been inspected lately, it would be a good time to do it. To test, use a jumper cable with care not to damage the threads of the Glowplug. Usually clamp one end of the jumper on the base of the Glowplug and briefly touch the top where the wiring plugs in.

The Glowplug can melt, but you want to see it glow in a short period of time and uniformily with all 8. Any that stay dark are bad, subpar will take longer than you have and will not fully atomize the fuel before they lose power from the timer.

Another problem can be the gating in the Turbo. There should be clean passages for the valving to seal when the Turbo closes. If the Turbo does not close, the exhaust compression may leak into the cylinder too early before a fuel charge is atomized. Since the Glowplugs are barely on for a hot engine, it will complicate starting.

Since your engine starts great when cold, fuel line integrity and the fuel system should not be a problem. Surging at 55mph is probably due to the Turbo.

Check your Vacuum levels at a convenient tap and see if the Vacuum bleeds off quickly or holds pressure for awhile.

Please rate my info and I hope I have been helpful.

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1 Answer

A relay in the dash board ic clicking and truck wont start its a 1999 f250 super duty diesel. it turns over but wont start. i just installed new fuel pump its working fine


It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.

If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.

Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.

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Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.

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1 Answer

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no wait to start light is a good indication that you need to check you glowplug relay and harness. Make sure you have 12V in and out of the relay. Also if you can check to see if you have good continuity to ground through your glow plugs. This is kind of hard to do on this engine, sometimes it is OK just to check the AMP draw for the leff and right group of wires. Do this by putting an AMP clamp around all 4 wires to the left and right bank. Wait about 45 sec. for the relay to click off (if it clicked on) and then record the amps right before the relay turns off. Let me know what the amp draw is and I can check it against the spec sheet. Se you amp clamp above 100 amps, it might start around 60A and end up around 36A if I remember correctly.

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