Laser Kh 1.8 91 - high idle, missing under load under 2500rpm
My car is a ford laser kh 1.8 1991, 5 speed manual. It started off idling high once warmed up, but would then drop back after a few moments/minutes. Now, its constant once warmed up. It 'seems' that once warmed up it also almost stalls due to missing, if say, i'm tryign to take off (under 2500rpm), but runs normally once its up past this rpm. I took it to the garage and had new fuel filter, new spark plugs and a 'rocker cover seal' (for an oil leak) put in.... however this did not help, and they suggested an auto electrician. There is also one unattached wire that is red and black, comming from the fuse box bit, to the right of the engine, near where the cable goes to the distributor cap. could be anything eh? can't see where it could have gone though. Finally, the car, once heated up, if left for a minute or two, will not start. 3 goes later, it feels like its running on 2 pistons, and blows a LOT of smoke - reving it high helps to make an embarressing get-away. Any help is appreciated, truly.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
so fortunately for you the ford laser and the mazda 323 are one in the same. i would refer to this video to see if you can get a full walkthrough of how the process works. below are two links the first is the video the second is a google search with multiple links may be helpful to you as well. Water Pump Timing Belt Replacement Mazda 323Google
I assume motor tune or other mechanical condition is not causing the problem. When engine running, ensure no engine combustion gas bubbles in coolant resevoir (if so, the head gasket is blown). I suggest you go through this checklist:- Check radiator cooling fans are operating ok (as required when car warms up) - if not check 1) fuse, 2) relay operation, 3) heat sensor switch.
Check/replace the thermostat,
Check for collapsing (soft) coolant hose on suction side of waterpump when engine revs above idle. Check the coolant pressure cap is serviceable & of correct rating, Ensure cooling system is correctly filled, bleed off any airlocks as necessary, Check radiator cooling core is not blocked internally or externally.
0.10 - 0.15mm inlet 0.18 - 0.23mm exhaust but you must be carefull because the top of the valve seat becomes concave from wear, a feeler guage will not give the most accurate reading, hope i have been of some hel
It could be that the horn needs to be replaced or a fuse or a relay not working also check the horn button on steering wheel, but start with the fuse first then check the horn by wireing it directly to battery [this willbe noisey]
It could be coming in through the rear door as the rubber might not be sealing properly the easiest way to find the leak is to remove your seats and carpet sit inside get someone to squirt the car round the doors and windscreen air vents.
you'll have to reset the timing marks on cam and crank, check no1 is at TDC, and look at distrubuter to make sure it firing on no1.
if you split the hydraulic line, you'll have to bleed the line.
good luck. cheers !