Ok, so I have a 1985 Ford F150 8 cyl 5.0 ltr 4wd fuel injected truck.
I need to replace the muffler, center exhaust pipe, and rear catalytic converter. I need to know if I can cut the rear catalytic converter off and purchase a universal catalytic converter and just use a clamp to clamp it to the ehaust pipe I just cut it off of or will I have to weld it to the old pipe where the broken one formerly was. If I can not do this would I be able to replace the whole catalytic converter setup without replacing the exhaust manifolds like where would the exhaust manifold end and connect to the catalytic converter exhaust pipe portion. Do it just require a gasket and some bolts will I have to weld it on?
Also if the tail pipe is good condition but has maybe an 1/4 inch of rust where its bolted to the muffler can I just cut the rust part off and move it "down".
I also have a blown rear axel seal what is it, what do it do and where do I locate it? Is this serious enough to warant fixing it or will it just leak and such so I will have to monitor fluid levels. This blown rear axel seal has fouled the rear brakes, drums, and shoes on both sides. I am told that I have to replace all of this. How complicated is this whole procedure?
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Re: Exhaust replacement & Rear Brakes
I can't see a problem with the converter, but if your in one of the states that does emissions testing it might be a problem as it most likely would leak where its clamped. The best thing to do is get it all on and try to find someone to weld it for you. As far as axel seals, if there bolt in axels unbolt pull out and use the end of the axel to pop out the old seal, and just tap the new seal in carefuly. seals around $ 10.00. Break kleen will clean up break shoes and drumb. Need more help just ask.
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Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
Remove spark plug heat shield.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
You will have to look for aftermarket parts. Use your brain and get creative. The exhaust is better done by the professionals. You're looking at about $300 for the whole exhaust from the exhaust manifold or headers to the muffler. The pipe might have to ordered or they will bend one to fit the car. You'll get new catalytic converter(s), and the muffler you can pick from an endless choice. Go to Advanceautoparts in person and see what they have and how you can use it. If you can weld or know some one who can you can probably save money on the exhaust by getting parts from Advance. As for the rear brakes here are the cylinders. For the fuel filler neck get an aftermarket one that will fit or you can make fit by modifying it. You can use tin snips to remove the old one. And fuel resistant epoxy to install the new one.