Need connector block connections for horn wire,relay to button.
Want connector block connections for horn wire, 2000 Sienna. (voltage should be 12v at each.) Pulled 1.86v at horn sw, same at first connector towards relay. Want to back-trace the drop, but don't want to dissassemble the entire car.
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Did you check for voltage and ground at the horn connector?
The picture is underhood fuse block, see the horn fuse and horn relay? Make sure the fuse is good, also, use a testlight and check for voltage at the fuse circuit, one leg should have voltage.
If voltage at fuse circuit, unplug the relay, terminal 2 should be hot, use proper jumper wire between 2 and 3 in the picture, the horn should sound. If it does, something wrong with control side of relay. Your horn button and wiring control ground for coil side of relay. Sometimes there is a problem with wiring in steering column, for the horn.
as with all elect. fails check all fuses
in this case the 15 amp fuse marked, HORN
can i presume all else works good> car drives.?
all answers, USA spec car. nobody ever tells location, so..... if not USA< all answers wrong. the usa car has just 1 horn.....
got voltage to horn? 12v
Yes or no.?
if yes horn bad.
got voltage from horn relay
yes, bad wires.from, relay to horn
no, got voltage 12v to horn relay coil,
yes, good, no bad fuse.
got 0v to other relay coil (all tests honking)
yes, bad relay.
no, bad horns switch.
if you want me to guess. sure.
1: bad wires ../connections, end to end.
2 bad horn
3: bad relay
4: bad horn switch.
it has 4 parts
and fuse power.
not counting wires.
no year stated, so no answer
is this a way question, a how to , or who can , DIY or????
you made a statement, do ask a real question.
if it was mine,
1: check the horn fuse.
2: Id fix it, Id, check voltage at the horn while person 2 hit the button.
12v bad horn (or its ground is rusty)
0v bad relay or button.
if the relay has 12v in , and 0v out its bad.
Your horn circuit is very simple. It consists of the primary circuit, which controls the relay coil and the secondary circuit that applies voltage through the relay contacts to the horns.
The Horn fuse (10 Amp) in the engine compartment fuse block supplies the battery power for both the primary and secondary circuits. This fuse is haot at all times (regardless of the ignition switch position).
Battery power is supplied to Pin 1 of the horn relay. Pin one of the relay connects to both the relay coil and to the secondary main contact.
The ground for the relay coil is provided via the GREEN/BLACK wire through the horn switch. If the relay is clicking when you push the horn button, then the primary side of the horn circuit is working.
When the relay coil is grounded by the horn switch, the relay contacts come together (that's what makes the clicking sound) and supply voltage to the GREEN/WHITE wire that connects to the horn assemblies.
Check for battery voltage at the horn when the horn switch is pressed. If there is no battery voltage present, then the only thing it can possibly be is dammaged contacts in the horn relay or the GREEN/WHITE wire is broken between the relay and the horn.
If there is voltage present at the horn on the GREEN/WHITE wire, the only possibilities are bad horn assemblies or a bad body ground that is not allowing the horns to ground properly. A bad ground condition can be verified by running a jumper wire from the battery NEGATIVE post and connecting it to the mounting bolt at the horn. If this makes the horn work, then you probably need to repair your body grounds near the battery.
Check for voltage to the horn either while someone else presses the horn button, or by using a test light. You should get 12V between the horn wire and a known good ground. If you're getting 12V at the horn wire, then you probably need to replace the horn. If you don't get 12V when the horn is applied, then it is likely that the horn relay needs to be replaced.
The clicking you hear is the horn relay working.
I would locate the horn and insure the wiring is intact and the horn has a good solid ground.
Then while someone is pressing the horn button measure the voltage at the wire that attaches to the horn to ground. If you get 12v or more the horn is bad. If you don't get any voltage replace the relay
the horn circuit is that theres 12v fed to one side of horn and works when its return is grounded at the horn button,,the feed to thec/liter may also be the feed to the horn,,the horn staying on may be the button return spring has calapsed and the contacts not seperating
You can remove the horn relay and use a Ohm meter and check the resistance between the horn relay connector terminal No. 86 (Black Wire) and ground. If the ohms are less then 5 ohms replace the horn relay. There are a lot more tests but as Polarcycle states you can do what he suggested other then I believe you have two horns in this vehicle.
Diagram should be on the inside of the fuse box or relay cluster lid/cover. If Test light has 1 wire and a sharp tip? Yes, but only if you push the horn button too ;-)
My guess is that the horn lost its ground, but you can check this with the light. The horn only beeps when both GROUND and Pos 12v are present. The horn button gives the relay 12v to close, and the relay gives the horn 12v to operate. The ground is always connected.
Connect tester clipwire to 12v source (battery, headlight (has to be on) and touch its tip to metal of car. Does it light? Good. the tester is working and the 12v is a good source.
Touch one of the 2 horn connection or wires (poke it thru the plastic - why tip is sharp). Does it light? Touch the other, does it?
If both light, (1 will be brighter) we can assume the horn coil is good and it is getting a good ground and I was wrong (it happens... but not often). The side that is BRIGHTER is the ground wire side.
Now have someone mash the horn button. Do you hear a tiny click? That is the horn relay. If not, look for the horn relay fuse and replace it. If you DID hear the click, the relay coil is good and is trying to switch 12v to drive the horn.
Now is time to locate and replace the horn fuse or the relay may have bad contacts. Look at the other relay part numbers in the cluster and see if there is a match for the horn one. Swap it out and try the horn.
Hope this all helps. To 'test' the horn, touch the dim side again anf listen for a scratching sound. That is the 12v going thru the tiny bulb in the tester (a resistance) and trying to drive the horn.