2001 chevy1500 changed the front pads...ok it was the rear ones that were grinding so changed the rear pads and right rear disk was grooved so replaced it... it's like driving with the e-brake on they get hot.. what adjustment did I foget to reset?
Suterman, RE: infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid inside RR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ?99 to ?04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported.
GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.
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Re: rear brake dragging
Hello, I worked at GM for years and the right rear caliper on the trucks are a common to wear the inside pad before the others they have no fix to repair this problem from reocurring. Matter of fact I own a 2001 and I have bought a set of pads just to replace the one on my truck.
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Your RIGHT side brake disk caliper is probably siezed so all braking power is going to the left causing the pull. Wheel off, disk pads out, pump out the pistons in the caliper JUST A LITTLE. Clean with a copper brush and brake fluid until polished (Careful not to catch the rubber dust seals). Push pistons back in. Re-fit pads and wheel.
Other thoughts on this. Check for a lip on the disk caused by wear as well.
That's the super cheap, pay nothing for parts option. You should consider: Changing both sets of brake pads If the disks are worn, changing the disks too (you may be able to grind a lip off if you have the nerve). If the caliper still sticks, new pistons or piston and caliper
Remove all rust from pad and caliper sliding surfaces,eg metal to metal,not the pins,they get synthetic brake lube. Apply anti-seize to all sliding surfaces. Make sure you can screw in the rear caliper piston,if applicable, and manually ratchet up the parking brake,after caliper and pads are on. Bleed/Flush all 4 Wheels. Make sure you can slide the pads back and forth,before lubing end tabs. You may need to file a little off the ends or just remove the paint. Make sure parking brake cables are really releasing.
if its a slight grinding sound, its your brakes telling you to replace them. toyota makes their brake calipers to wear the compress to a certain point untill the brakes are bad, so the brake pad itself will wobble and grind on the disk when going bad... start with the cheapest possible options first... brake pads (20-25 bucks). if its your disk thats gonna be around 100-125 if you do it yourself... good luck
You said pads so is it disk brake in rear or drum ? disk have pads drums have shoes.
ok if its disk then its real easy to change them take tire off after raising car and theres two bolts at the back of the calibur one top and one bottom back those out then carefully slide the calbur off the disk ok then you will see two pads one inner and one outer they will look slightly different ok heres the short cut use the outer pad and place it agains the round center and use a large c clamp to press it flat then take it off ok know put new pads on and place it back on disk tighten the two bolts back in and put tire back on lower car know very important pop the hood and make sure the brake resivor lid is on good then get in car start it and pump brake back up dont miss that last step or you may not have brakes till you pump it up hope i have helped you.