Question about 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Rear brake dragging

2001 chevy1500 changed the front pads...ok it was the rear ones that were grinding so changed the rear pads and right rear disk was grooved so replaced it... it's like driving with the e-brake on they get hot.. what adjustment did I foget to reset?

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  • John Ball May 11, 2010

    You will need to check and see if your rear calipers are sticking or not where the piston moves in and out.Also check the sliders that the mounting bolts go though that hold the calipers on.They should move back and forth freely.With the calipers off,turn the rotor and see if the parking brake is holding it at all.

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Suterman, RE: infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid inside RR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ?99 to ?04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported. SOLUTION: GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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Hello, I worked at GM for years and the right rear caliper on the trucks are a common to wear the inside pad before the others they have no fix to repair this problem from reocurring. Matter of fact I own a 2001 and I have bought a set of pads just to replace the one on my truck.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

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Try the parking brake is inside the rotors on the rear. Check the cables it really is dragging I bet. The bands on them are expensive so have fun.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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1 Answer

Front end pulling to left


Your RIGHT side brake disk caliper is probably siezed so all braking power is going to the left causing the pull.
Wheel off, disk pads out, pump out the pistons in the caliper JUST A LITTLE. Clean with a copper brush and brake fluid until polished (Careful not to catch the rubber dust seals). Push pistons back in. Re-fit pads and wheel.

Other thoughts on this. Check for a lip on the disk caused by wear as well.

That's the super cheap, pay nothing for parts option. You should consider:
Changing both sets of brake pads
If the disks are worn, changing the disks too (you may be able to grind a lip off if you have the nerve).
If the caliper still sticks, new pistons or piston and caliper

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Just changed rear pads and rotors on my 2000 chev blazer..after test driving rear brakes were hot and smoking...brake pads seem to be sticking..are the calipers shot or do I need hoses or both?


  • Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
  • First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
  • Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
  • When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
  • If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

  • How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
  • If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
  • If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
  • Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony

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I am having a problem with tha front and rear brakes, I change disks and brake pads, drums etc. and still I have the same problem. noise front and rear.


what type of noise squeal or growl or grinding if it is grinding or growling i would look to wheel bearings if it is a squeal it is the material the pads are made from

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Remove all rust from pad and caliper sliding surfaces,eg metal to metal,not the pins,they get synthetic brake lube. Apply anti-seize to all sliding surfaces. Make sure you can screw in the rear caliper piston,if applicable, and manually ratchet up the parking brake,after caliper and pads are on. Bleed/Flush all 4 Wheels. Make sure you can slide the pads back and forth,before lubing end tabs. You may need to file a little off the ends or just remove the paint. Make sure parking brake cables are really releasing.

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if its a slight grinding sound, its your brakes telling you to replace them. toyota makes their brake calipers to wear the compress to a certain point untill the brakes are bad, so the brake pad itself will wobble and grind on the disk when going bad... start with the cheapest possible options first... brake pads (20-25 bucks). if its your disk thats gonna be around 100-125 if you do it yourself... good luck

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After replacing drive side caliper, both front disk brakes, and rear drum brakes, bleed all three lines, both my front calipers lock grinding my front brakes. I am going to re-bleed my lines tomorrow but...


I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.

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Grinding coming from Rear Wheel Driver side when I drive ...


its the brakesd you should change the pads from the back and for safety the ones int he front.good luck

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I have a 2001 1800 engine Nissan Almera Tino. The rear brake pads need replacing how do i do this?


You said pads so is it disk brake in rear or drum ? disk have pads drums have shoes.
ok if its disk then its real easy to change them take tire off after raising car and theres two bolts at the back of the calibur one top and one bottom back those out then carefully slide the calbur off the disk ok then you will see two pads one inner and one outer they will look slightly different ok heres the short cut use the outer pad and place it agains the round center and use a large c clamp to press it flat then take it off ok know put new pads on and place it back on disk tighten the two bolts back in and put tire back on lower car know very important pop the hood and make sure the brake resivor lid is on good then get in car start it and pump brake back up dont miss that last step or you may not have brakes till you pump it up hope i have helped you.

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