Where is slave cylinder for clutch on 1994 Isuzu pickup 2.3 litre
I have four mechanics telling me there is a slave cylinder for a 1994 Isuzu Pickup (not Rodeo, not Trooper, not Amigo, but Pickup). I have an on-site mechanic telling me this model of Isuzu works with cables and lacks having any slave cylinder associated with the clutch. If this does exist, where is it? Jualt@aol.com
Re: Where is slave cylinder for clutch on 1994 Isuzu...
To determine which type of clutch you have, servo hydraulic or cable.
Look down past the engine bell housing and determine the existance of a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.(a piece of casting with a rod facing towards the rear of the vehicle pocket into a bracket protruding out of the gearbox bell housing. As well as a pipe and bleed nipple to be crude)
(which I believe you have).The hydraulic fluid for this unit is sourced from the brake master cylinder reservoir via a sneaky pipe partially obscured to the clutch master cylinder on the internal firewall.If you have no clutch slave cylinder near the bell housing there would be an obvious bounden cable running from the firewall down to the outer of which will be stopped at a bracket hanging off the engine.The inner will continue to a bracket protruding from the gearbox bell housing.
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Unlike French cars which tend to use number four cylinder as the timing cylinder, almost everyone else including Isuzu use the traditional number one as the timing cylinder, not that for practical purposes it matters very much as it is a simple matter to discover which cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke and then fit the distributor with the rotor pointing at the distributor cap segment for that cylinder.
It is the direction of distributor rotation that confuses people more than anything as many rotate anti-clockwise although I believe the one you are working with rotates clockwise. Another problem with many traditional distributor installations is they often share the oil pump drive which must both be aligned before the distributor will successfully slide home and then because of the skew-type drive gear the distributor turns considerably on the way in and then the rotor is found to be misaligned. The apprentice mechanic soon learns to anticipate and allow for these things.
If the same distributor is being refitted it is best to make alignment marks to cut the amount of time and effort. Few engines require the removal of the distributor for routine timing belt replacement and usually all that is needed is an ignition timing check with a stroboscope.
must be 4ZD1 engine with carb? ok, so why tell the full story or job so we can be on same page. 1: distributor pulled. 2: or just messed up timing, 3: or just scrambled the wires? on top of cap to plugs? 4: all 3? rules: need to know rotor direction, crank it to see. need to know where #1 is, its front front. need to set the distrib. so that #1 rotor location is at #1 wire, and crank is at $1 firing and that both #1 valves are closed.
number 1 TDC on all engines, is the timing spec.
now you ask where is #1 right>?
#1; is the most forward cylinder , in inline and V engines. forward means, the CAM driven end.
it's not reset , its calibrated, using a timing light with the the timing freeze jumper inserted.(EFI)
------------------------------------------------ if removed. the distrb. worse case. there is static timing steps and then dynamic (fine tuned ) with the timing light.
in general all 4 bankers. with dizzy 1: set crank to #1 firing both #1 valves closed and lash loose. if lash is wrong, get that right first. Clearance is 0.006 in. (0.15mm) for intake and 0.010 (0.25mm) for exhaust.
2: next insert the distributor so such that the 4 HV lugs are up and that the rotor points to the correct inside cap terminal, #1. use a ohm meter to find #1 cap terminal if that was lost too?. 3: lock down the distributor, it is now crudely time to #1 firing 4: use the Timing light now to set timing. is different on EFI from CARB. you never said if its either.
alldata.com has this. but you need to go to correct section, carb or EFI. and read there.
No, this is a hydraulic clutch and the only adjustment may b on the pedal linkage for free travel to the master cylinder. It sounds as though you may have a bad clutch master cylinder or defective slave cylinder.
this symptom would typically be solved with a new cluth slave cylinder. Check to make sure the fluid is full in the master cylinder reservoir. If the fluid is empty then there is either a leak, or the clutch is has worn. filling the reservoir and bleeding the system may get you back on the road.
Just fill the reservoir, open the bleeder on the slave, have someone push all the way down on the pedal, then close the bleeder. Repeat this until fluid comes out. Then pump the pedal several times, and hold the pedal down. Open the bleeder just long enough for the squirt to come out. Make sure you don't run out of fluid. When the fluid coming out has no air in it, then stop.
Check the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks, look behind the rubber boots as the boots can trap the fluid. If all of that is good then you use normal bleeding procedures: step on the clutch, have someone open the slave bleeder to let fluid and any air out, close slave bleeder, repeat.
Did you bleed the system? There is probably a bleeder on the slave cylinder and you may need to jemmy the selector fork/ Also look fro a damper valve between the master and slave cylinder... it will need bleeding too.