In Australia, the oil pressure sender switches, depending on the car, cost as little as $15AU. Also depending on the car, they can be relatively easy to change, if you can get access. So even if a mechanic were to change it, I wouldn't think they would charge more than 30 mins of labour.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Well if the ABS light is still on when you turn the car off you might want to check the brakes especially if you have drums in the back. check the oil level too. also the oil pressure guage might be bad along with the abs sensor.
If you turn the key on and the check engine light comes on then its not blown. If you start the car the light should go off within a few seconds. This desnt mean a code is not stored in memory. All it means is the problem may not of been seen twice in order for the light to stay on. You will need a data scanner to see whats going on with all your sensors. Its the only way to diagnose this. Also if you have a vacuum leak on the engine like a gasket leaking or a vacuum line not hooked up the cruise will be a problem. It could be a small crack in a vacuum line that only opens under certain conditions.
On 3.0L OHV engines, the oil pressure sensor is located on the left
side of the engine block above the flywheel. On 3.0L DOHC engines the
sensor is located on the left side of the engine block above the oil
filter. On 3.4L DOHC engines the sensor is screwed into the oil filter
adapter. The oil pressure sensor operates the oil pressure warning lamp.
Fig. 1: Location of the oil pressure sensor-3.0L OHV engines
Fig. 2: Location of the oil pressure sensor-3.0L DOHC engines
Fig. 3. The oil pressure sensor-3.0L OHV engine
Hope help with this (remember rated this help). Good luck.
No you have overheated it ,for what ever the reason ,when it cools down oil pressure should be alright again but iam afraid you have bought someones elses bucket of you know what .If oil light doesnt go out then it wants either a new switch or someone put STP oil thickener in it to flog it ,take it back and get your cash back,Dont forget to have your base ball bat tucked into coat .
OK, now you added 2 quarts of oil just because someone told you to. Did you check the oil level yourself? That is very suspicious unless your engine is smoking and burning oil. Park the car on a level surface, shut the engine off, and after 30 minutes remove the dip stick and check the oil level. You may find it is overfull. If it is that is just as bad as unde-full. In any case, Change the oil & filter and use a quality filter such as Purolator or Wix and the correct weight oil which will probably be 5w20. Check your owner's manual to be sure. If the oil light is still on, have a oil pressure test run. You may have nothing more than a bad oil pressure sending unit.
P1131 (Fault Location) Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, bank 1-not switching, fuel trim (FT) weak mixture (Probably Cause) Wiring, intake/fuel system, HO2S, EGR system, oil level, camshaft timing, cylinder compression, ECM. Could be any one of these. Is your oil level ok on your dip stick?
The good news: a ford dealer can make you a new key. The bad news, that oil light coming on when the engine is warm, is an indication that you have low oil pressure when the oil gets hot and thin. This is usually an indication that the rod and /or main bearings are about to fail. This pretty much means you need a new (or used) engine. There is an off chance that the oil pressure sender has gone out of calibration and is turning on the light prematurely, but this is rare. The correct way to check this, would be to hook up an oil pressure gauge and let the engine get hot, then compare the readings against specs. Your shop should have done this. Failing that, you could gamble the price of an oil pressure sender and see if the light stays off. If not, put heavier oil in and drive it till she dies because repairing the problem is probably more expensive than a good used engine.
Try pulling the electrical connector for the oil pressure sensor first. Examine the connections on both the connector and the sensor terminals and clean up both any dirt, grease, or corrossion. Reattach the connector and check the oil light again. If it is still lighting up, replace the sensor/sending unit.
If your engine is the OHV Vulcan engine, the oil pressure sensor/sending unit is at the rear of the block, just ahead of the transaxle. If you have the OHC engine, the sensor/sending unit is on front side of the block above the oil filter.
Why do you note "no lubrication in upper heads"? How would you know that? Next step if sensor replacement does not help, is running the OBDII Diagnostics and checking the trouble codes, if any.
welcome to the world of owning a ford. after about 130,000 miles your check engine light will come on and stay on unless you reset your comps. but will come back on if the problem is real or the sensor is bad. see ford has it set up so that do it your selfers like me still ahve to pay them money some how. only ford can sell you a new sensor, and only ford knows where it goes. take it to a ford dealership and have the run a digagnostic on your car i bet uit's just a bad sensor.