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the Heater fan motor is dead on high?
the Cluster gauges and warning lamps are all dead?
what is dead, and what is not?
power loss, engine power,
do check all fuses first. in both boxes
if fix the fan first. he heater fan nust work on high.
if not fix that. its very simple and if you fix that,there is a good chance
other things start working
the #1 thing to fix first is headlights or parking lamps dead .
as these all work keys in pocket. and is an easy fix.
check for a bad thermostat or an air pocket in the cooling system...your fans should come on any time you turn on the air conditioning....check to see that both fans are coming on by doing this....trapped air is common because of the odd configuration of the cooling system...turn on all heaters and place fans on high...warm up the engine then add distilled water or dexcool to your engine coolant canister....rev a few times to pump coolant into heater cores.....good luck and be cautious when working on your engine please...
Unplug the fan on sensor. It should have one green wire and one black wire. Use a paper clip and jump the two wires. Turn the key to the run position, the engine does not need to be running. Does the fan come on? If not check the green wire for 12 volts and the black wire for ground. If there is no ground than run a new ground wire. If the is no power check the heater/air conditioning fuse in the under dash fuse block. If there is power and ground make sure both the cooling fan fuses are good and both the cooling fan relays are good.
The humming would be the fuel pump coming on. It should only hum for a few seconds, then shut off.
Your problem is with the start circuit from the battery to the starter, or from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the starter (the big cable) for tightness. Is the battery charged up enough to turn the engine over? Check by turning headlights on and observe while someone turns key to crank. If they dim a LOT, then either battery is too low, or the starter is bad and needs removing for testing. If brightness doesn't change, then the circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is likely not working. Check for 12 volts at the small wire to starter solenoid with key in cranking position. If you have power there, the solenoid may be bad. Remove starter for testing. If no power at solenoid in starting position, then either the ignition switch is bad or the neutral safety switch might be the problem, or the wiring from the switch to the starter solenoid is not passing current. Good luck.
What you state is true invest in a new electrical ignition switch that runs off the key cylinder to run power to the starters solenoid. When they go bad the car is totally dead sometimes such as yours. Some will go bad to the starter although other functions may work such as the radio, heater fan, and so on. If your headlights and brake lights work the switch is what you need for the ignition
To reset the oil life......turn the key on....do not start....pump the gas pedal 3 times within 5 seconds.....then turn the key off and back on and it should be reset....sometimes u have to do it a couple times.......and what heater fan r u talking about?.....
Horn fuse should be labeled on the fuse block. If it's not, easiest way to check is to just check them all. Use a test light and probe the back side of each fuse on both ends, till you find one that only has power on one side. Horn works with key off but I generally check with key on. Also, you have a horn relay (should be in the power distribution center (basically another larger fuse box, usually on the right fender under the hood. If all else fails, run a "hot" wire right to the horn & make sure it works. Horn "switch" is actualliy part of the signal mechanism and internal parts within the steering column...though these sometimes develop dead spots, it's least likely that it is the source of your problem.
power loss. any good car elect. tech find this pronto. just takes a volt meter to find the voltage drop point.
top fails: 1: corroded fuse box on right front finder (under fuse box) 2: did you say it kills motor too. cant figure above.
what about heater fan, it uses tons of current. as does HL followed by tails.
20amps, 15amps and 5amps respectively
you have resistance some where. and load , kills the voltage .
for me. i'd: check battery voltage , when it dims out. then of ok 12.5v is ok key on,not started. then check voltages at a right fender , fuse panel all points there, 12.5vdc , same as battery v. if OK then check voltage at the fuse above right knee with load full, hl, fan, brakes, just key on.