Question about 1996 Toyota RAV4

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How to replace clutch step by step on a toyota rav4 4wd

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You need some very specialized tools to do that You'll need a jack to hold the transfer case once you remove all the bolts holding it to the transmission. Remove the drive shafts.Then you'll need to remove the transmission, again with a supporting jack. Once that has been accomplished , remove the bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel. I'd replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel that holds the input shaft to the gearbox before proceeding. There are special tools available to do that. Now assemble the clutch disk and the clutch plate and put the bolts back in without tightening them. Now take the clutch alignment tool and push it thru the clutch disk and into the new pilot bearing. position it so the clutch disk is dead center in the clutch plate and then finish tightening the bolts Put a new throw out bearing on the clutch release lever and reinstall the transmission and transfer case. Reinstall the drive shafts and replace any gear oil that may have spilled out of the transmission or transfer case. Adjust the clutch pedal clearance to spec and you're done.

Posted on Nov 21, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: needing to know step by

Hi, follow the general guideline below on how to replace the clutch, i did not find the specific replacement procedure for 96 Toyota Celica but this will also help.....
Step 1. You will need to lift the rear (RWD) or front (FWD) of the vehicle. Therefore, make sure the vehicle is on a firm, flat surface. Engage the parking brake and block the wheels so the vehicle can't move.
Step 2. Using a hydraulic jack, lift the vehicle one side at a time and place a quality jack stand under the frame or manufacturer's recommended location to support the vehicle. Do this to both sides so you have plenty of clearance to work under the vehicle.
Step 3. Next, you will need to remove the vehicle's drive shaft or axles. On the rear of the drive shaft is a universal joint (u-joint). It is held to the differential with U-bolts or regular bolts. Remove the U-bolts/bolts and pushing forward on the drive shaft, slip the u-joint away from the differential. You may need a pry bar to separate the joint from the differential. Make sure not to allow the drive shaft to drop to the ground. The end caps on the u-joint can come off. There are needle bearings inside them that can come out. Therefore, we recommend wrapping electrical tape around the u-joint to hold the end caps in place.
Step 4. Then, place a drip pan under the tail housing of the transmission and carefully slid the front yoke from the transmission housing and remove the drive shaft. A small amount of transmission fluid may drip out.
Step 5. Now, based on the model year of the vehicle, inspect the transmission. Remove any wiring harnesses, vacuum hoses, or other items that are attached to the transmission. We recommend marking everything you remove so you remember where it came from when you reinstall the items. Masking tape and a marker will make things easy to locate.
Step 6. Next, you will need to remove the starter. Remove the wiring from the starter and the two bolts mounting it to the transmission.
Step 7. Secure the engine by placing a jack under the oil pan. NOTE: To avoid damage to the oil pan, make sure to place a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan to distribute weight and not dent or damage the oil pan. If the oil pan is made with aluminum, be extra careful not to crack it.
Step 8. Now that everything is removed from the transmission and the engine is secured place a transmission jack under the transmission and slightly lift up on it to remove pressure from it.
Step 9. Remove the transmission mount from the cross member and remove the cross member if clearance is needed.
Step 10. Next, remove the bolts that attach the transmission bell housing to the engine.
Step 11. Once the bolts are removed, carefully move the transmission away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
Step 12. Next, remove the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel and remove both the pressure plate and the clutch disc.
Step 13. Now you can remove the transmission. While it is out, closely inspect the flywheel for scoring, heat spots, cracks, or anything out of the ordinary. Any damage justifies having the flywheel machined or replaced. NOTE: Machining the flywheel will not eliminate heat spots. Replacing the flywheel maybe required. This is also a good time to check the rear main seal on the engine for leaks and repair as necessary.
Step 14. Inspect the pilot bearing at the center of the flywheel to remove this you may need a pilot bearing removal tool.

Clutch Replacement:
Step 15. If the flywheel was removed, make sure to properly clean the crankshaft flange that it bolts to. When tightening the flywheel, do it in a star sequence to the manufacturer's recommended torque.
Step 16. Install the new clutch disc and pressure plate. Tighten the pressure plate to the manufacturer's recommendation. (Note: The clutch disc can only be installed one way, if the disc is installed incorrectly the clutch will not operate. In most cases the replacement disc will have a sticker that says " flywheel side" if not take note on how the old disc was installed).
Step 17. Install the release bearing with a thin layer of grease on the bearing sliding surface.
Step 18. With the transmission jack, slide the transmission back into position.
Step 19. Carefully, move the transmission forward until the input shaft enters the clutch disc's splined opening (center). (Note: Do Not force the shaft. It should be aligned so that is glides into place. In most cases, you will need to use a clutch alignment tool.
Step 20. Once aligned and the transmission and engine are back together, replace the bell housing bolts and any items you removed from the transmission.
Step 21. Adjust the clutch assembly as needed.
If you require more detailed instructions, contact us or you may want to purchase a repair manual specifically designed for your vehicle.

Posted on Mar 10, 2011

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