Driver's headlight is dim; wipers only work if headlight is off
2003 Focus Wagon ZTW
I have checked the fuses and replaced the headlamp. Here is what happened to begin with...
I was driving at night on the freeway and realized I had missed my exit. There was no traffic and I cut over to take my exit late.
I wasn't able to see a raised island type barrier perhaps 6" maybe 8" tall, which I therefore drove over (slammed over) at probably 50 MPH.
At that time the left headlight went very dim, the left turn indicator on the dash remains on and the left turn signal stopped working unless the headlights are switched off. Turn on the left turn signal and it clicks 3 times as normal, then goes into the fast click mode indicating problems with the light.
Also, if the headlights are on, the windshield wiper will only slowly creep up the window, but not actually work.
Turn off the headlights and both the turn indicator and wipers work as normal.
After replacing the headlamp, the left turn problem indicator is no longer lit, and the left turn signal seems to work with or without the headlights on, but the wiper still does not work, and the headlight remains extremely dimly lit.
I was wondering if this would indicate a wiper relay?
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Re: Driver's headlight is dim; wipers only work if...
Sounds like the jolt from the barrier has caused a bad ground to occur. Look for a bad ground wire around the left headlamp in or around the headlight bucket. Tighten or replace the bad ground wire. A poor contact will cause the headlight to light dimly.
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Assuming you Focus does not have DRL, setting the light switch to low beam energizes the low beam relay in the battery junction box, sending power through 10A FUSE 16 (L) and FUSE 17 (R) to the headlamp low beam elements
I am assuming from your description that the low beam operates but is very dim? The headlamp driver / relays are located in the fuse block under the hood. The most likely cause would be excessive resistance (corrosion) on the driver for the left headlamp. A simple continuity test could verify this with a volt/ohm meter. Check from correct cavity in fuse block to headlamp, resistance should be less than 0.5 ohms
Yes it could be a fuse. You need a test light or volt meter to test.
A fuse goes bad because of an overload of amps, or a short. (A bad fan motor can short out). Check all fuses. (See the owners manual for locations) If all is good, you need to see if you get voltage to the fan motor. If the fuse is blown, or bad, replace it and try it again, if it blows again, unplug the heater fan and then try another fuse. If it doesn't go bad, the motor may be bad. Cost will depend on what you can do yourself.
same thing happened to us. My wife came home and said the rear brake lights were stuck on so I assumed it was the brake switch...not so. Took car for a ride and noticed rear wiper did not work and when I hit the brake the rear hatched opened and door locks blew out. I started by looking at the wires in the gromet above the hatch and found almost all the wires were bare. Therefore power was jumping the bare wires and traveling back down the third break light and to the rear brake lights and visa versa.. a very dangerous situation. The best that I can tell is the wires are so short in length that they pull and chafe every time you open and close the hatch...very poor design... Note: we bought our vehicle brand new and some of the wires had electrical tape on them....seems mickey moused.
For some reason, Toyota chooses to wire their headlamps differently than domestic cars, with dual fuses for the headlamps, and a common ground for each headlamp...The reason that the lamp was dim is the bulb was getting power thru a "backfeed" condition, due to the poor ground. The fuse may have blown due to the poor ground, also.