Re: how do i remove the alternator from a 97 saab 900
You do not have to remove the wheel unless you have th 6 cylinder engine (2.3l). Then yes you do:
Disconnect Negative Battery Cable Remove the air cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing Relax the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt Remove the right front wheel, black belt cover/protector, and the wheel hub nut and slide the hub off the drive shaft/outer Cv joint Disconnect the alternator, remove the alternator/air intake hose, 2 bolts that hold the alternator in and remove it through right-hand wheel housing.
Yes, this is immensely annoying. I hope you figured it out...
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Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
3. Remove the strain of the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt
4. Remove the right front wheel
5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire.
6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket
7. Remove the three bolts that hold the header pipe up to help give room to remove the alternator
8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and mover the converter over to aid in the alternator removal
9. Refit in reverse
Working from Top down:
disconnect battery 2) not necessary to remove airfilter box but does give more breathing room for belt removal/instal 3) un-tension serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive long extension in the square of the tensioner & pull towards the front of the car to release the serpentine belt 4) lock tensioner with about a 4mm pin(Allen key will do) by pulling forward with that 1/2"drive extension & pinning the tensioner with that hole 5) remove tensioner with 8mm Allen key or drive(not necessary to remove R side engine mount & raise engine) and be careful to not knock and cause to release the tensioner-they hurt when they snap! 6) remove upper alternator bolt(8mm Allen key/drive).
Working from Bottom of the engine bay:
disconnect cables at alternator(13 & 8 mm nuts) 8) remove R wheel/inner fender skirt that covers the harmonic balancer(10 & 8 mm heads)/ tie back flex hose to strut 9) remove lower alternator bolt(8mm alley key/drive) 10) wedge/rotate out alternator of its mounts 11) disconnect exhaust pipe rubber hangers at catalytic converter and mid section of exhaust 12) you can bend(and later re-bend into position the hanger studs) (OR undo front header studs/nuts to free up the front part of the exhaust) to push over the exhaust and pull out the alternator(pulley nose down)--be careful when getting the alternator out as the downstream O2 sensor is right there(a good precaution would be to remove it)......reverse procedures to install.
Unfortunately this is a very tight space to work in.There are a couple of bolts holding the bracket against the engine block.You need to remove those bolts and then swivel the alternator with the bracket still attached to it.You will then have room to remove the bottom bolt.You need to remove the oil filter and oil filter housing first.PLEASE REMEMBER TO REINSTALL THE OIL FILTER AND HOUSING BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE.
assuming its a front one disconnect lower arm by undoing ball joint bolt remove brake caliper and disc disconnect hub from strut undo driveshaft nut and remove driveshaft u then split hub by pushing centre iut with a press,once split push bearing out with press then push new bearing in and refit everything the same way u removed it
I just recently had the same problem, I found that using an "easy out" worked very well for my stripped lower bolt. If your stripped bolt is the upper than it is a different story. If you are talking about cutting the bolt into pieces make sure you are cutting on the alternator side (assuming you are replacing the alt) if not you will risk changing the pulley in respect to the belt and the will be misaligned and will wear/break belts.
Removing the alternator isn't the easiest job on this car!
long bolt that allows the alternator to pivot to adjust belt tension
ISN'T the bolt to be removed; remove the two bolts that hold the
mounting bracket to the engine block. One is at the end of the
alternator (away from the belt), the other is above the end of the
adjusting bolt, not far away from the first bolt. Slacken the tension off
the belt by loosening the adjusting bolt, then undo the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine
While you have the alternator off, check the bushings of
the tension adjusting bolt; if worn/sloppy they should be pressed out
and replaced; it'll extend the life of the alternator bearings.
Removing the alternator isn't the easiest job on this car!
The long bot that allows the alternator to pivot to adjust belt tension ISN'T the bolt to be removed; remove the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the engine block. One is at the end of the alternator (away from the belt), the other is above the end of the adjusting bolt, not far away from the first bolt. Take the tension off the belt, then slacken the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine block.
While you have the alternator off, check the bushings of the tension adjusting bolt; if worn/sloppy they should be pressed out and replaced; it'll extend the life of the alternator bearings.
The alternator is on the passenger side near the wheel well towards the bottom of the engine. If you look behind the air filter housing and down, where the clip to remove housing is, you will see the back of the alternator. It is usually held on with two allen head type bolts. You need to disconnect the battery (make sure you have the code for your radio because you will have to re-enter it) remove the drive belt, disconnect the wires to the alternator. It is also recommended that you remove the 3 exhaust pipe to manifold bolts and the catalytic converter bracket; this allows you the clearance to remove the alternator. If you aren't willing to invest some sweat and time take it to a trusted shop and have them install it. I just had to replace the alternator in my 1996 900 S and it was no fun. Good luck!
Here is a picture showing the location of the nine bolts securing the bracket (this engine is out of the car). It is possible to remove the bracket with the alternator in situ, if you have air tools and just about every extension and off-set available. Otherwise, removal of the alternator is usually necessary.
are you sure its dead? i thought the same thing about my 1990 900S, but it turned out one of the wire connectors (the thing that youcrimp the wire into and then the connector snaps onto a place jutting out [think of the connector as a socket and the jutting out on the alternator as the cord to an appliance]) was disconnected and totally fried. All i did was buy new connectors at an autozone and stripped the wire then crimped the newly exposed wire into the connector. Saved me about a lot of money and was a simple and easy problem to fix. The sign i'd look for is a dingling wire that seemingly goes to nothing.