Re: '86 corolla relay switch- how much and where can i...
There is not such a thing as ignition relay sw.send me an email to email@example.com. I can help you,i am an electromecanic with specialty in 1984/1987 corollas. If you send a tel. no. I can call you.
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You need to test the electrical circuit , starter relay in the engine compartment . Is there B+ voltage at the smaller gage wire on the starter solenoid when cranking ( or trying to crank the engine ) ? Videos on you tube , testing from relay base ( where the relay plugs into ) Find the start relay in the fuse / relay box an pull it out . Look on the bottom of the relay , you should see four sets of numbers ! 30 , 87 an 85 , 86 . > 30 an 87 are the power side of the relay . 30 should have B+ voltage ,if not ignition #2 30amp fuse is blown . If there is B+ voltage you can take a jumper wirer ,an jump 30 to 87 > 87 goes to the starter solenoid . Jumping 30 to 87 will engage the starter .Checking for B+ voltage at pin 85 while trying to crank the engine, if there is b+ voltage you know the ignition switch is good an so is the transaxle range switch (neutral safety switch ) ! Does yours have a burglar alarm ? If so then there is an other part burglar alarm relay ! By testing at the relay you can tell which part of the circuit is bad ! Plus testing the heavier battery positive cable also needs to be done . Voltage drop testing the cables Starter Voltage DropVEHICLE RELAYS Operation DiagnosisVEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base This would cost you $86.00 to have this diagnosed at most auto repair shops. 1 hr .
Is the anti-theft light lit ? Is the starter relay good ? Do you know what a relay is ? Are the battery cables good ? I would start will the starter relay circuit's if the anti-theft light is not lit.! The starter relay along with the starter relay diode is located in the battery junction box in the engine compartment. The relay is K-22 . If you pull out the relay an look on the bottom of the relay you should see four sets of numbers 30,87 an 85 ,86 . If you take a jumper wire (12-14 gage ) an jump pins 30 an 87 if the battery cables & connections are good the starter will crank . Pin's 85 &86 are the control side of the relay . One of these comes from the ignition switch when is start position an the other goes through the transmission range sensor (park neutral switch) To ground or the PCM if yours has a V-8 . Now if when you jump pins 30 & 87 an nothing happens you have bad connections or the battery cable is bad . You can go on youtube an check out videos on voltage drop testing the starter circuit .
Did you check the starter motor relay ? Do you know what a relay is ? The starter relay is in the power distribution center , under hood fuse / relay box . Find the relay an pull it out of box. look on the bottom of the relay , you will see numbers . 85 an 86 this is the control side of the relay . B+ on 86 . 85 is from the engine computer , supply's a ground when the body control module sends a message on the CCD or PCI serial data communication network. Because when you turn that ignition key it is just an input to the BCM - body control module . Pin's 30 an 87 are on what is called the load side of the relay. If you take a piece of 10 gage wire an jump those to sockets the starter will crank . The first thing to do is to check for battery voltage at 30 an 86 sockets in the power distribution box.
# 30 is always direct power from the battery and or ignition switch from the battery to the relay to power the part. #87 is to the part it is sending power to. #85 and #86 can be swapped., One is grounded. The other is power from the ignition switch or any switch. #30 and #87 are the switch in the relay. # 85 and #86 are the coil in the relay. The coil pulls the switch closed to power the part.
No, year make or model. But if you blow the crank fuse, it is between the starter and the ignition switch. Could be the switch, but most likely the wire. At the relay there are four pins. 30 is B+ all the time, 87 is to the starter. 85 and 86 can be switched. But one is B+ with the key in start position, the other goes to the ECM, this would be ground.. Since you're blowing the fuse, you need to find the short to ground. this would be the 85 and 86 wires.
on a replay there are 2 particular connections that cause that. When you look for numbers on that relay you will find the numbers 30, 85, 86, 87 and 87a. The problem is their is power going to 85 or 86 (they are the 2 control terminals that control the relay). that should not be. basically 87a allows power to go through the relay when the system is shut OFF, Terminal 87 is the path of power that turns on whatever is connected to it. Now... 85 and 86... one of them is ground... the other power. Typically 85 is ground and 86 power. Now to better explain what is going wrong. you have a connection that feeds power to 87a. that power is powering 87 which powers 86. when power is turned on at 87... it turns on 86... that causes the relay to pick up an break the connection of power to 87a while at a fraction of a second later making the contact to 87. So... the path of power is turning the relay on and off all by itself, LOL. I know this is confusing, sorry. But I hope it helps
Good Evening, As long as you have good power and ground to the starter you should be fine, however what I would suggest first is pulling the starter relay and jumping 30 and 87 and see if the starter kicks over. If it does it means your trigger wire from the relay is good (might have to have the key on for the power to be on to the one leg but i do not believe so). If that works then I would suspect a ignition switch I have seen this happen before, one way to see is if you take your test light to where the relay is and take it out and one leg either 85 or 86 is going to be your switching from the key. If neither switches either power or ground when the switch is moved to the start position I would lean towards the ignition switch. Do the first test and go from there. Let me know if you need any more help.
You need to replace the relay or the ignition switch,check for power to the relay in the crank position,[pin 85 or 86] in the plug the relay was taken out of to see if the power to the relay goes away as soon as it is in the run position.If so replace the relay,if not,replace the ignition switch[not the key switch the switch the key switch turns].