Just installed Compressor, Accumulator, and orfice tube. Cleared codes, PSM, ACM, and PZM out of IPM fans came on for split second and then off. Will not come back on. Checked fuses, minis and maxis, and relays, all are good???
Re: cooling fans will not come on (AC or radiator)
Coolant temp sensor is probally faulty. I had a no fan blow problem, removed the wire harness from the coolant sensor and fan came on and stayed on, indicating that the fans work fine but not recieving singnal from sensor. replaced sensor, all worked out.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The guage needs to read between 35/40 psi.. If its much higher you may be overfull, this causes it to not cool.. Fix by letting some freon out, then top it back to needed pressure.. If pressure is correct, it would be a clog in the system.. Usually an orafice tube or accumulator..good luck!
CONDENSOR IS THE SMALL RADIATOR LOOKING DEVICE WITH COOLING FINS IT IS MOUNTED IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR. THE ACCUMULATOR LOOKS LIKE A CANISTER OR LOOKS LIKE A CAN.YOU NEED TO ADD 1 ONCE REFRIGERANT OIL TO CONDENSOR AND ACCUMULATOR. YOU NEED AC VACUUM PUMP. NOT SHOP VAC. THE AC VACUUM PUMP COST ABOUT $400.00 YOU CAN BUY CHEAPER ONE FOR $60.00 YOU NEED A AIR COMPRESSOR THAT OPERATE AIR TOOLS WITH.YOU NEED VACUUM PUMP TO REMOVE ALL MOISTURE OUT THE AC SYSTEM BECAUSE MOISTURE WILL FREEZE UP IN THE SYSTEM.
If the car was retro fitted with R134a this was a common problem. There was a low side pressure sensor that needs to be changed. R134a runs different pressures than the r12.. When you go down the road the condenser cools off the system and the pressure drops below the minimum pressure. You need to make sure that the system is fully charged, not just cold to the feel. Both pipes coming out of the firewall need to be the same temp. this makes sure that the evaporator is flooded.
I hope this helped. Re-post if you need more info. Have a nice day and good luck.
Three things will make an a/c compr, cut on and off. 1 lower freon, will we know thats not the case. 2 possible low pressure switch, sit on accumulator, starting to go bad, and 3 most's likely high pressure, will need a/c gauges, if very high pressure a/c compr will shut off, could be resticted orfic tube, or condenser fan at radiator not coming on, fan has to be on when a/c is on, or system will have high pressure.
It cost me around $220 for parts from AutoZone (AC Compressor, Accumulator, Orifice Tube, and Refrigerant Oil). I had to have it professionally evacuated and charged by Firestone and that cost me $80. I didn't flush the system because my compressor didn't blow up and throw chunks out. I made a video on how I did it. So far it's working great!
di you replace the orfice tube; drain the system of freon, and recharge the entire system, and put the pag oil back in? If this was not done, your system will not work, because of an auto shut off valve.
the orfice tube is in line inside low side line near the accumulator in the enigine compartment (passenger side) remove the large nut at the accumulator and it usually can be extracted with needle nose pliers .If its crammed with debris from a compressor failure,there is a special extraction tool to dig it out
Service and Repair CAUTION: When the A/C compressor is inoperative due to internal causes, clean the refrigerant system to remove any debris or contaminants to prevent damage to the replacement A/C compressor.
Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is necessary when the A/C compressor is replaced. The A/C evaporator core orifice should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor is replaced for lack of performance, or when there is debris in the system.
Recover the A/C refrigerant system following the recommended procedure. Observe all safety precautions.
Drain and save the radiator coolant.
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Disconnect and remove the constant control relay module.
Disconnect and remove the fan and the shroud assembly.
Disconnect the upper and the lower radiator hoses.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire at the clutch field coil connector on the A/C compressor.
Remove the top two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
From underneath the vehicle, loosen and remove the accessory drive belt.
Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) wire connector.
Remove the A/C muffler supporting strap bolt from the subframe.
Ensure the A/C compressor is properly supported as the bolts are removed. Remove the bottom two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
Remove the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube assemblies from the vehicle as a unit. Remove the assembly from the bottom, using care not to scrape it against the the A/C condenser core.
Remove the A/C manifold and tube from the A/C compressor.
If the old A/C compressor is to be replaced with a new one, remove the A/C clutch and the field coil assembly.
Service the replacement A/C compressor with the correct amount of clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
Lubricate the new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and position them in the O-ring seal grooves of the A/C manifold and tube. Use only the O-ring seals specified for the type of A/C manifold and tube being used. NOTE: When replacing an A/C compressor, use the original manifold bolt from the removed A/C compressor to attach A/C manifold and tube to new A/C compressor. Do not use the shipping cap bolts.
Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M2G350-A2 to the threads of the manifold retaining bolt.
Position the A/C manifold and tube with the O-ring seals to the A/C compressor. Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 17-23 Nm (12.5-17.0 ft lb) .
Install the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube onto the A/C compressor mounting bracket.
Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core.
Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier.
Install the muffler support onto the subframe.
Connect the HO2S wire connector.
Install the accessory drive belt.
Lower the vehicle to the floor and perform the following operations from the top.
Install the radiator.
Connect the radiator hoses and tighten the hose clamps.
Install the fan and the shroud assembly.
Install and connect the constant control relay module connector.
Connect the battery ground cable. NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Electronic Engine Control (EEC) , when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
Fill the radiator with the reserved coolant.
Leak-test, evacuate, and charge the A/C system following the recommended procedures.