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Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.
Autozone.com. There you can go to repair info after I believe setting up a username and password real quick and type in the year make and model of your car and that should help out a little. Good Luck!
Should be inside the timing cover. You remove the timing cover to access the pump parts. Not really a pump assembly like pumps mounted inside oil pans. I doubt the pump is faulty. Have you checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge ?
TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine construction. Removal 1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and splashguard. 2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt. CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage may result. Inspection 1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary, replace. 2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg). 3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification. Installation 1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2. NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston is at TDC on compression stroke. 2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets. Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily. 3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt. 4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation, reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article. Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co
It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before. ---
The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down:
Pistons and Connecting Rods
Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set.
Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced.
Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps.
Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage.
Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components
Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle.
Engine Start-up and Break-in
STARTING THE ENGINE
Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
Connect the vehicle battery.
Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF.
WARNING Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.
Remove the exhaust side spark plugs, outer timing belt cover, and crankshaft pulley.
Turn the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC).
CAUTION The camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097) can be damaged when trying to relieve belt tension if you attempt to remove the belt without first loosening both the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the spring pivot bolt.
Loosen the timing belt spring pivot bolt, but do not remove it at this point in the procedure.
Loosen the adjusting bolt slowly and release the spring tension.
Turn the tensioner with the camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097), against the spring pressure, clockwise to the farthest position.
While holding it in this position, tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner away from the belt.
Remove the timing belt.
Be certain that on piston number one, the crankshaft is at TDC with the crankshaft keyway pointing straight up and the circle on the crankshaft sprocket lined up with the notch on the engine front cover.
Line up the timing marks.
Install the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket going counterclockwise over the oil pump sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket.
Loosen the bolt allowing the tensioner pulley to press against the timing belt.
NOTE: The timing belt tensioner should not be tightened or the belt tension will not be evenly distributed over the whole belt.
Turn the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise. Next, slowly bring the crank to the number one position firing position with the keyway on the crank facing up. The dot on the crankshaft gear is lined up with the notch on the front cover.
Check the timing mark alignment again. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
Tighten the bolts. Torque the pivot bolt to 30-40 ft-lb (40-55 Nm). Torque the adjustment/locking bolt to 26-33 ft-lb (35-45 Nm).
Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt. Torque to 93-121 ft-lb (125-165 Nm).
Install the outer timing belt cover and tighten the bolt. Torque to 70-106 in-lb (8-12 Nm).
Drive your Dodge Caravan up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels and engage the parking break so the car doesn't roll. 2. Step 2
Disconnect the negative battery cable on your Dodge Caravan. Drain the engine oil and coolant into separate pans. Take the vehicle off the ramps or lifts. Remove the accessory drive belts and use an engine support tool to hold the weight of the engine. 3. Step 3
Take out the right engine mount and bracket. Take off the timing belt cover and loosen the bolts on the timing belt tensioner. Remove both the tensioner and the timing belt then raise the vehicle back on the ramps or lifts. 4. Step 4
Take out the oil pan assembly and remove the oil pump pick-up and the O-ring. Take the crankshaft damper out with a good puller. Use a puller to also draw the crankshaft sprocket from the front of the crankshaft. 5. Step 5
Loosen the bolts on the oil pump and take them off. Remember where they were since you'll need to replace them later. Unscrew the relief valve. Install the New Oil Pump 6. Step 1
Clean all the parts to remove contaminants and debris then install the inner rotor. Make sure the chamfer faces the cast iron oil pump cover on the back. Torque the bolts to 105 in. lb. 7. Step 2
Install the relief valve, followed by the spring, gasket and cover cap. The cover cap should be tightened to 40 ft. lb. 8. Step 3
Fill the rotor cavity with clean engine oil to prime it then insert a new O-ring seal into the oil pump. Put Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent anaerobic type gasket sealer on the flange of the oil pump body. 9. Step 4
Align the oil pump rotor flats with the flats on the crankshaft and install the pump slowly, tightening the fasteners to 20 ft. lb. Add the new front oil seal and install it with the spring side facing the inside of the engine. Even it out with the engine cover. 10. Step 5
Install the crankshaft sprocket with the special sprocket tool. Put on the oil pump pick-up tube and O-ring and torque the bolt to 20 ft. lb. 11. Step 6
Insert the oil pan and install a new oil filter. Lower your vehicle then install the timing belt and covers and crankshaft damper with a tool specialized for the 2 mm by 1.75 by 150 mm bolt. Tighten the center bolt to 105 ft. lb. 12. Step 7
Put on the accessory drive belts and adjust them to the right tension. Put on the engine mount and bracket then take out the engine support tool. 13. Step 8
Add fresh oil to the engine and refill the cooling system. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water in the cooling system. Start your engine and check for leaks.
This MAY seem Strange But It IS ALL necessary for Oil Pump Replacement. And Please Don't Forget to Rate Me as Most Folks Do Not. Thank You and GOOD LUCK with the Oil Pump Job Also
OIL PUMP It is necessary to remove the oil pan, oil pickup and chain case cover to service the oil pump rotors. The oil pump pressure relief valve can be serviced by removing the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Removal and Installation for procedures.
To remove the relief valve, proceed as follows:
Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and insert a self-threading sheet metal screw into cap.
Clamp screw into a vise and while supporting chain case cover, remove cap by tapping chain case cover using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and remove spring and relief valve.
Remove oil pump cover screws, and lift off cover.
Remove pump rotors.
Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
Oil Pump Assembly
Assemble pump, using new parts as required. Install the inner rotor with chamfer facing the cast iron oil pump cover.
Tighten cover screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
Install chain case cover. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Installation.
REMOVAL of Timing cover REMOVAL
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Remove timing chain cover.
REMOVAL Of Oil Pan to gain Access to OIL PUMP
Disconnect negative cable from battery and remove engine oil dipstick.
Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
Remove bending brace to transaxle attaching bolt.
Remove bolts attaching dust cover to transaxle housing. Lower dust cover to gain access to oil pan bolts.
Remove oil pan screws and remove oil pan.
Clean surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar (R) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent, at the parting line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer.
Use a new pan gasket.
Install pan and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
Install dust shield and bending brace to transaxle housing.