I live on dirt roads, so it is a huge problem because as I drive down the road dirt/dust goes through my car. It also leaks when it snows or rains. Please help!
Replace seal or gasket
Bought mine from this website:
https://www.autopartsandremotes.com/product/liftgate-hinge-8l8z78420a68c/
For a few years there were recalls on some rear hinges for the hatches. Run the Vin# to see if anything is listed.
Usually there are adjustments on hinge mounts and on the latch mechanism. New rubber moulding would help if the current moulding is torn or compressed.
If you have a sunroof, it may have a drain which is plugged or disconnected at some point and allows water to enter and dump rearward.
In a worst case scenario, the vehicle may have been hit and the opening is not straight enough to seal.
This problem sounds like a body shop or glass shop problem.
SOURCE: rattle under the front end?
The rattle may be stabilizer link rod bushings or a strut mount loosening up as for the engine light you must hook up a code reader to determine the problem otherwise you may be replacing parts blindly.
SOURCE: My 1996 Ranger 2.3 sputters at mid RPM's. driving
REPLACE FUEL FILTER.SOUND LIKE ITS ALMOST STOPPED UP.
SOURCE: 4x4 light goes on and off driving down the road
may have a bad relay or a bad selector switch, your going to have to replace relay first and then go from there, good luck.
SOURCE: my 2001 ford focus recently started getting a wet
If its not raining then you will need the heater core inspected. Chances are your coolant is low so better check it.
SOURCE: My Ford Escape 2001's back hatch door cannot be locked
I had the same problem on my 2002 Escape. Ended up taking it to the dealer and they replaced the Lift Gate Lock Actuator - cost us about $310 (parts and labor). Part #1C3F-18C815-AB
Subject; 2006 Ford Escape
Re: dome light, door ajar lamp on dash, uncontrollable alarm activation. I just purchased the subject vehicle and did have problems with the factory (OEM ) alarm going off through the day and night. The first thing I did to fix the problem was; I removed all the door locks from each of the doors and disassembled them to ensure proper operation of the micro switches within each of the door locks. I also checked the hood trigger switch to ensure it was functioning correctly. I removed the plastic cover on the inside of the hatch to ensure proper function of the two door latches under it (one for the hatch the other for the glass). Still having the problems I originally had I decided my problem could be a bad ground to the frame. So I made another ground from a trigger switch to the chassis (frame). I made my ground connection above the headliner on the right rear of the vehicle. Raise the main rear hatch and pull the top section of the plastic corner post panel back, pull the headliner down to expose the multi pin connector going to the rear hatch wiring. In that bundle of wires is a black/White stripe wire. I soldered a wire to that wire and attached the other to ground. I would not suggest removing the locks from your doors or hatch, and oil/WD-40 won't work either. However high pressure air with carburetor cleaner seem to work best for me in making the door locks work smoother. Basically all the cleaner does is removed dirt and dust buildup from around the micro switch assembly within each door. You could potentially have a bad door lock to but can isolate them one by one. Good luck.
1,083 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×