Clutch fan broken - 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

Stephen, the tabs are part of the clutch assembly... You went to far to fix the problem. Or someone just sold you an incorrect fix. This fan/clutch should be just a screw on fix to the pump, nothing more.

the coolant temp sensor should be tied into both the gauge and the clutch . the sensor tells the fan clutch to come on if the vehicle is going above the normal operating temp. also check the wiring leading to the sensor and the clutch for broken or frayed .

Yes,replace the fan clutch,don't want to get it all back together and not work cause you didn't replace fan clutch.Your water pump may have been damaged also,I hit a deer and did major damage too,had to replace water pump,the fan is connected to it.

Change your Fan Clutch. If the fan is not kicking on to move air through the engine compartment then it needs to be replaced.
The fan clutch is attached to the front of the fan (the part of the fan that is closest to the radiator) it usually looks like a round piece of metal with fins on it. You don't have to take off the fan shroud or anything if you dont have to. in most cases you can squeeze your hands back behind there to get at the bolts securing the clutch to the fan. you may have to take the fan off as well. Hope this helps. Good luck.

You more than likely have a broken motor mount. Inspect them and replace the broken one.

fan clutch isn't spinning the fan to pull air to cool car. replace fan clutch assembly. that fan alone should keep the car in the mid zone. electric auxillary is for A/C and overheating only.

the fan clutch is stuck not allowing the fan to free wheel like its designed at an idle Replace the fan clutch

fan may be broken, replace it. check fuses for a/c clutch relay, if not the clutch ok your a/c needs to be replaced

* Fan operation can be checked by spinning the fan by hand.
* A noticeable wobble or any blade that is not in the same plane as the rest indicates that replacement is in order. The fan can also be checked by removing it and laying it on a flat surface. If it is straight, all the blades should touch the surface. Never attempt to straighten a damaged cooling fan. Bending it back into shape might seem easier (and cheaper) than replacing it, but doing so is risky. Whenever metal is bent, it is weakened.
* Fan clutches use a fluid-filled chamber (usually silicone) to turn the fan. Obviously, loss of the drive fluid will render the fan useless.
* One of the simplest checks is to visually inspect the fan clutch for signs of fluid loss.
* Oily streaks radiating outward from the hub shaft mean fluid has leaked out past the bearing seal.
* Most fan clutches offer a slight amount of resistance if turned by hand when the engine is cold. They offer drag when the engine is hot. If the fan freewheels easily hot or cold, replace the clutch.
* Another check that should be made is to push the tip of a fan blade in and out. Any visible looseness in the shaft bearing means the fan clutch should be replaced.
* Fan blades are balanced at the time of manufacture but can be bent if handled carelessly.
* Likewise, fan clutches are machined very accurately to run true. However, rough handling at the time of pump replacement causes nicks and dents on the mounting faces. This can cause the fan blade to be installed crookedly. Serious trouble might follow soon after the car is back in service.
* Therefore, handle fan clutches and blades with care and be sure to file away any nicks, burrs, or dents someone else might have caused. Obviously, if any fins have been broken off the fan clutch, it must be replaced.

Remove the upper half of the fan shroud to access the radiator fan. The fan should be held on by 4 bolts to the clutch fan. Unbolt the fan from the clutch fan and remove the fan, when installing use a little lock tight to ensure the bolts don't come losses and put everything back on revers. Good luck and hope this helps.