I change the radiator &water pump but stil over heating but when i remove the radiator cap its ok looks like some pressure in the cooling system dats pushing out water from the radiator i check the oil its ok its not white or milky the car got a turbo diesel model kd-lvlr 15v
Solution One and two are on the track But I believe you have a crack or seal problem in the engine.
One way to tell is get it checked for compression readings. Good is over 200 approximately. But look at the specs to be sure. Solution 2 says remove the thermostat but it maybe too late. If you have pressure problems there is not a way I know to beat it except remanufacture or rebuild the engine.
Diesels produce high compressions so the 200 value may not apply. Any way you look at it is a hard job and expensive these days.
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I can feel your frustration. It sounds like you've done all the logical stuff already. The "donut hole" in your process would seem to be not changing the water pump. The water pump as you might imagine, is responsible for circulating (pumping) the relatively cool water in the radiator into the running engine that contains the hot water. Hoses connect the two together. A thermostat is between the radiator and the engine. Once the water in the running engine gets to a certain temperature, the thermostat opens allowing the water pump to send cool water into the engine and hot water out to the radiator to be cooled. The heater core is usually on the passenger side firewall area.
It sounds like the water pump is the only thing left to change - if it isn't working - it can't circulate the water - and will result in overheating. Lastly, a clogged heater core shouldn't cause the engine to overheat - in fact, if the engine begins to overheat, you should turn the heat to HIGH fan and HIGH temperature to help remove some of the heat in the coolant.
Many people overlook the cooling system pressure cap cheap to replace but often overlooked , the radiator may also be internally restricted. Rad shop would be able to confirm if this is the case. rad cleanout and engine block flush may help. Hopefully this is useful to you.
With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle's radiator and water pump. Remove the radiator cap.Install a pressure tester on the radiator. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner's manual. Inspect the water pump for leaks. Remove the pressure tester. Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open the drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain the cooling system.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CARPROG FULL V4.01
REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF CAR OVER HEATING WHILE IN MOTION.MORE LIKELY ITS THE THERMOSTAT,LOW COOLANT IN RADIATOR OR COOLANT SYSTEM,BAD WATER PUMP,WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IS LEAKING, WATER PUMP NEEDS REPLACING.CHECK ENGINE OIL,IF OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF CAR IN PARK AND OVER HEATS WHILE IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE OR.BANK DRIVE THROUGH COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON, BECAUSE THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULTY.CODE SCAN CAR FOR FAULTY COOLANT FAN RELAY OR FAULTY PCM. CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE, AND HOT WIRE THE COOLANT FAN TO MAKE SURE ITS WORKING.IF COOLANT FAN DONT WORK WHEN HOT WIRED. COOLANT FAN NEEDS REPLACING. REPLACE BOTH RADIATOR HOSES, REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.BUY NEW COOLANT ADD 50/50 WATER AND COOLANT.IF ENGINE OIL HAS ANTIFREEZE IN IT.REPLACE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER TO KEEP FROM LOCKING UP THE ENGINE.GET CAR FIX.DONT KEEP DRIVING IF IT KEEP OVER HEATING,ENGINE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.I HOPE INFORMATION I GAVE YOU WILL FIX PROBLEM.PROBLEM COULD BE LEAKING RADIATOR HOSES BUT CHANGE THERMOSTAT THATS FIRST THING I WOULD CHANGE BECAUSE IF IT CLOSED, ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT AND CRACK CYLINDER HEAD OR CRACK PISTON, COOLANT NEED TO CIRCULATE THROUGH THE ENGINE TO TAKE AWAY THE HEAT FROM ENGINE.
Check this procedure to how to replace a water pump (DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 3.5 hours):
Parts: 1. Water Pump
Tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Scraper 3. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 4. Cooling System Pressure Tester 5. Needle Nose Pliers 6. Socket Set 7. Radiator Hook Tool
Supplies: 1. Coolant 2. Silicone Sealant
Steps: Step 1 With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle’s water pump. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes. o Tip: Before removing the radiator cap, squeeze the upper radiator hose to verify that the cooling system is not pressurized.
Step 2 Remove the radiator cap.
Step 3 Install cooling system pressure tester. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner’s manual.
Step 4 Inspect cooling system components for leaks.
Step 5 Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain cooling system. o Tip: Depending on the vehicle, lifting the vehicle may be required to gain access to the lower radiator hose.
Step 6 Remove the drive belts or serpentine belt.
Step 7 Remove any hoses connected to water pump.
Step 8 Unbolt water pump from engine. Remove the water pump.
Step 9 Using a gasket scraper, clean the mating surface on the engine block.
Step 10 Install new water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. o Tip: You may want to use a light bead of silicone designed for water pumps.
Step 11 Re-install any hoses and belts that were removed.
Step 12 Re-install drain plug or lower radiator hose. o Tip: Squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels soft you may want to replace the hose at this time. Always use new hose clamps.
Step 13 Refill radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, then pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.
Step 14 Fill overflow reservoir with same mixture.
Step 15 Leave the radiator cap off, start engine and let it idle. You should see the system“burping” bubbles of air. Refill the radiator to the top. o Tip: Most air is expelled after a couple minutes of idling. Be cautious of potentially hot fluid overflowing.
Step 16 Install radiator cap.
Step 17 Road test vehicle, keep an eye on the engine temp gauge if vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be topped off after vehicle has fully cooled down.
You need to replace the radiator pressure cap. I would also replace thermostat, drain and flush radiator to start. If it continues the water pump may be not pumping water. If the thermostat is stuck closed it wont allow water to cycle through the engine causing it to boil and the pressure cap is not holding the pressure allowing it to flow to the reservoir. So first change the thermostat and the radiator pressure cap.
i can give you a general answer. the cooling sys is a closed system. as the engine warms up pressure is also increased. kinda like how a boiler works, or a pressure cooker. i dont know the figure of how much pressure is produced within an engine that is operating normally. the engine's thermostat. the thermostat of many car engines opens at 195 deg coolant temp, allowing the coolant to circulate. high pressure when considering a car's cooling sys to me is relative. if you try to remove the radiator cap when the engine is at/near/above operating temp you will be burned by the hot coolant under pressure rapidly escaping out the radiator. most pressure that is above normal is caused by an obstruction somewhere in the system. a t'stat that is stuck shut is an example. air pockets within the system will also lead to high pressure within the system. air pockets occur when you refill the system with coolant/water. pouring water/coolant back into the radiator traps air that can circulate throughout the system and you must ensure that these air pockets escape out the radiator, or you risk damaging the engine from excessive heating.
The water (coolant) in the expansion tank will rise and fall with the engine temperature. What the expansion tank does is collect and return coolant to and from the engine. When the engine warms up the coolant gets hot, builds up pressure and opens up the radiator cap. The coolant then goes into the expansion tank. Now when the engine cools down the pressure drops in the cooling system and the pressure drop (vacuum) pulls the coolant back into the engine via the radiator cap. The radiator cap allows the cooling system to build up pressure and by doing so increases the boiling point of the coolant, but when that pressure exceeds the caps rating the cap opens and the coolant goes to the expansion valve. The cap has another part to it that when the engine cools down and a partial vacuum is created in the cooling system a "valve" in the radiator cap opens and allows the coolant to be drawn back into the engine. I would look at your radiator cap to see if any gunk or build up is on it, and check the rubber gaskets for cracks. It's easiest just to replace the cap because they are inexpensive and easy to replace (2-10 dollars). The expansion tank should have two hoses on it. The one on the bottom comes from the radiator and the one on the top (possibly part of filler cap) runs down and is open to the ground. That way if it is overfilled or becomes overfilled it will slowly leak onto the ground. When and if you change your radiator cap, make sure the engine is cooled down, remove cap and start engine and turn heater to full blast, full heat. Leave the cap off and let it run until engine warmed up. This should burp out any air pockets that may have happened when coolant was changed. Also top off the coolant in the radiator while it is running. Hope this helps and good luck