Intermittent electrical problem 1992 toyota trueno/levin AE101
Last night as I was driving my car home, I noticed the overheating/O2 sensor light came on, then I noticed that the check_tail_light and battery lights had also come on and started the swear to myself, As I pulled over to check they all went out... confused I took off again and hey presto they came back on again... I did this several time until i isolated that they were comeing on at about 1550 rpm in first and would go out at the same revs. I then thought screw can't be bothered with this then ignored them and carried on driving home - but after about 10k's the battery voltage indicator started to creep up and I had to turn on all my peripheral electronics to try and keep it under 18V...
This is my first car and having owned and worked on motorbike most of my life I am assuming that they are similar, I going to get it load tested this afternoon but and other advice would be hugely appreciated
also - where would I find the regulator/rectifier on a car and do they even have one??
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Go to the auto parts store and get a wire adaptor made for a 1992 trueno. It will plug into your factory harness. The wire colors are prematched to your sony and other aftermarket stereos. Just match the wire colors, splice with connectors making sure no wires are exposed. (A little electrical tape for good measure around splices helps). Then it just plugs in. If your factory stereo has mounts that screw onto the radio, unscrew them and attach them to the sony. Remove sleeve from radio and discard. The screw holes are already on the sony.
Well an engine vacuum leak can cause the P0171 code to come on and having an oil cap missing is a vacuum leak. The first response for this code is to replace the O2 sensor because that is what the code is for...bad O2 sensor reading. Now too much air from a vacuum leak can cause a lean condition in the exhaust. If they are going to replace the O2 sensor for free then let them..If you trust them to replace it. It is possible that the lean condition could have damaged the O2 sensor. You may find that after a few days of driving with the cap back on the check engine light might go back off. I do not think anaything would be permanently damaged as long as the oil level did not get too low and nothing got into the engine thru the open hole in the valve cover. Does the car seem to be running ok? No overheating, miss, ect.
restricted injector? the input screens plug on these seeing how they have no fuel return line, the debris builds up in the end of the fuel rail towards the radiator, my 95 3.9 does this every few years. and a bad or weak crank sensor too. how many miles? burnt exhaust valve or O2 sensor stuck lean? any codes? if its load sensitive than can also be a vacume leak or a bad map sensor, which reads load from engine vacume... let me know, i know the operating system like he back of my hand and ill try to help further
If the car runs fine until it warms up, then the check engine light goes on and it all goes to hell (sputtering, dying, etc...) then it is most likely the o2 sensor. Take it to autozone and have them put it on the scanner, just be sure to bring it when the check engine light is ON.
It sounds like it might be the oxygen sensor failing on your car. If it *is* the O2 sensor, it's not that expensive, from $50 to $200 and may be something you can replace yourself. But it's very unusual to have an O2 sensor fail so early. They typically last 60,000 miles or more.
At any rate, you really should get it checked soon. Running with a very rich fuel mixture will cause the catalytic converter of your exhaust system to overheat and cost many hundreds of dollars in additional repairs. It can also cause a grass fire if you park over dry grass with your overheated catalytic converter.
The first thing a mechanic will do is hook up a code scan tool to a connector in the car. This tool will show the error code that your engine's computer is complaining about. That code will probably point to the O2 sensor or something like that.