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It is really difficult to time these dbl overhead cam engines if you don't have the special tool. There is a fixture for holding the camshafts in place while the belt is being replaced but it is not cheap. It can be done but if you don't have the crank, both cams and the balance shaft all dead on perfect it is not going to run right. It sounds like you have one off a tooth. I did one on a Sonata recently and I found that everything moves when you apply the tension so I had to compensate the other direction the, amount of rotation caused by belt tensioner and had to do it several times to get it right.
Pull the spark plug from #1 cylinder. Cut a piece of
straight coat hanger wire about 8" long,(enough so it can't fall into the cyl.)insert the wire into the cylinder.
Have a helper turn the crank until the piston is at the
top of it's stroke.(using the wire to gauge the pistons position) remove dist. cap and turn the camshaft until
the roter is set to fire #1 cylinder. Now check your
timing gear marks, if they line up, your at TDC if not
bring the crank around again. You can do the piston
roter position test before you tear it down again.
this will give you an idea of where your at on the mechanical end of this. But first hook up an obdII
and see if the cam and crank sensors show codes.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
hi thanks for update the engine would run rough ifvalve timing was off a tooth however if in doubt ? recheck ! whenever you fit new belts or change always fit and work anticlockwise from the crankshaft ! this ensures the crank and cam side of belt and or chain is tight with the cam and crank t d c marks are aligned before you fit to other cogs and round tensioner did you compression test ? this also would verify lower comp's on each cyl due to valves not timed ie inlet+exhaust out of cynk ps do not ev engine too much just in case this is problem
remove the #1 sparkplug place a long screwdriver in the sparkplug hole point touching the top of the piston turn the crankshaft around until the screwdriver is almost pushed out (top dead center)
check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 sparkplug wire it must be; if not: turn the crankshaft again until it does
then turn the camshaft around until both valves above the #1 piston cylinder are closed
this is correct; now find the marks on the belt camshaft sprocket gear and, crankshaft gear aline the belt marks with the gear marks and, install the belt
on the pullys of the cams theres a mark like a little arrow face to the mark on the front cover on the head same with the bottom crank that one faces up.while turnning crank make sure cyl.1 is top dead center to check that u can put a pressure tester or you can do it the old fashion way . take off sparkplug of said cyl. carfuly put in long screwdriver in sparkplug hole.when piston is on top stop and proced with putting on chains. ........ carful with screwdriver in cyl. dont scratch piston or cyl wall. hope this helps you write me back and let me know how uyou made out.
does the check engine light flash or is it on when the car misfires?? Bythe way, Nissan has a new program available for your ECM/computer for the long cranking condition. Check with your local NIssan dealer. Also spark plugs are rated for 105K, You have 110K on it. Check your plugs and make sure, that you use NGK if they need to be replaced. Also, look at your overflow bottle. If its down, top it off to FULL mark and monitor the level for few days. See if it goes down in like a week. I have seen some headgasket problems, where the coolant gets into the cylinders and drown the spark plug, causing a misfire. Let me know what you find. Lets get to the bottom of this and lets fix it.